Omega DPK , A-Joint Revealed

scdiveteam

Rick Geschrey
Silver Member
Hi,

I have had a lot of Omega DPK stuff come through my shop over the years because of my proximity to Waconda and people I have known over the years who had ties with Omega. One of the most interestiing things was this blank that was never glued at the A-Joint

Omega used a phenolic rod turned down to .811 and it is live threaded for the construction and tension interface with the id of the handle matching threads. I believe they added tungsten powder to epoxy and filled this rod for the weight they wanted to add from the other end when they glue up.

Someone gave me an Omega Ring Billet many years ago and I was puzzled why the ID was .815. Now I see the method to the concept.


Rick G

Joined blank before gluing

A-Joint revealed using phenolic threaded rod
IMG_4420.jpg

IMG_4422.jpg

IMG_4423.jpg

Billet in foreground is a OMEGA DPK unit with .850 ID.
IMG_4424.jpg

Omega DPK business sign autographed by Dallas, Don Feney, Vivian Valaria, and the man himself, DPK.
IMG_3922.jpg

Proto type FS Blank from Omega:
IMG_4415.jpg
 
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Very cool, thanks for sharing!

Any idea on how the tenon was joined to the forearm? Was it threaded into the forearm, simply glued in, threaded over a smaller tenon protruding off the forearm, or glued over one?

Don't leave us in suspense Rick, inquiring mind ̶w̶a̶n̶t̶ must know :p

Hey Dan,

I just unscrewed it, it is live threaded the same way.

Rick
 
Joey, how nasty is G10 again, lol? I'll agree, it's the worst stuff i've messed with so far. Have you noticed how the droppings stack up as you're cutting? Weird stuff ,lol. I hate cutting it.:frown:
 
Do Omega cues ping? I had a Fanelli a few years ago that pinged quite loudly and when I called Paul, he said the cue was cored with a phenolic rod to ensure its straightness. Just curious.
 
Great share Rick, thanks.
I would hope he'd thread the handle too.
Here's a mock-up I did a few weeks back.
I threaded a female part to the handle as a wall and eventually accepted the wood tenon from the forearm's coring dowel . Half the threads grabbed the phenolic wall. The bottom half grabbed the handle.
I tried it with a G10 too. Nasty nasty nasty material to use. But, it sure sounded good after the epoxy dried.

Joey,

Very cool.

You can achieve your balance that you like by drilling out the front center of this A-Joint and filling it with tungsten powder and epoxy to get the weight right in the middle area of the cue like you like it.

I think they glued and the weight was added right before the final passes.
 
Just so I grab the concept here;
In stead of turning a tennon in the forearm-live thread this to a matching live threaded handle-they turn a large hole for the live threded phenolic in both ends, just to be able to add weight to balance the cue?
Did they only use epoxy mixes to add weight?
Did any of these buzz in case?
Was just wondering :)
K
 
Great share Rick, thanks.
I would hope he'd thread the handle too.
Here's a mock-up I did a few weeks back.
I threaded a female part to the handle as a wall and eventually accepted the wood tenon from the forearm's coring dowel . Half the threads grabbed the phenolic wall. The bottom half grabbed the handle.
I tried it with a G10 too. Nasty nasty nasty material to use. But, it sure sounded good after the epoxy dried.

Hi Joey,

I took some more detailed pics of the Joint for you before this box of Omega Stuff is gone from my shop as Todd Schaller is selling a bunch of stuff to a collector.

Since you seem to be also playing with a mock up of this A-Joint concept, I thought these pics and dimensions may help you. In the box of Omega stuff there was a dismantled old school cue that we thought was a Bushka that I think was the model for this A-Joint. I have found out since then via a PM of a well respected CM that this was a joint that Gus Z incorporated into his cue as a feature element. I am not an expert of the older cues so who knows if it is a Gus, but probably so. The points seem right.

I can confirm to you that this material is definitely brown phenolic.

I was wrong about the diameter and have corrected the first post to match the correct info.

Good Cue Making,

Rick

PS: As you can see Dan, it is the same on both sides.


IMG_4431.jpg

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Matching Omega A-Joint ring billet
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Forearm Depth
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Handle Depth
IMG_4433.jpg
 
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^
Very interesting Rick. I think it can be made better.

Interestingly Thomas Wayne here mentioned Bushka used a connecting bolt with that pattern. Much smaller of course.
But, it has the alignment barrel in the middle and threads at both ends.
 
Dpk

Rick,
Thanks for sharing. Again proving a lot of ways to skin a cat.
Thomas would know for sure, but I'm pretty sure that's not the way
Gus did it. He had phenolic at the A joint, but not going up and into
the forearm or handle. Haven't heard of many dpk's breaking at the A joint, so must have worked. Using the right epoxy and technique would
solve any hydraulic problems.
 
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