On the snap issues...(attention Travis Trotter)...

Thunderball

Thunderball

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Heres the dealio...

My first "real cue" was a cutech (Earl addition) and I played with it for years.

I won't get into moving onto the mooch from there,or the Perry from there because as luck would have it,my first three cues bring about much disdain from the azb faithful lol....(really,all 3 in that order,still love the Perry)

Anyhow,now I'm on a Pat Diviney so my collection is/was getting beyond fuctional....but I needed a break cue.So I had a phenolic break tip put on the cuetech.I did not change the weight (19 oz) or taper or anything else.

Now I gotta say,this is a pretty decent option for the old cuetech if you have one laying around.It breaks pretty freaking good,much better then the same cue with a hard leather tip,which is what and how I had been using this cue for the long last while.

But now I have the issues.I'm not talking about squating the rock in the middle of the table....I've never been good at that...now I catch hell just getting the cb to actually just stay on the table.I mean the percentage is pretty high right now (I dunno...40% maybe) that the CB will be airborne after a break.

What gives?
What should I do to fix it...soft breaking would defeat the purpose no?
Am I doing it wrong?

Its just a new tip and all of a sudden I'm a health risk to all of my PH's regulars lol.

Please help me help them ;) ....and it would be nice to shoot after the break every once in a while too....
 
Thunderball said:
Heres the dealio...

My first "real cue" was a cutech (Earl addition) and I played with it for years.

I won't get into moving onto the mooch from there,or the Perry from there because as luck would have it,my first three cues bring about much disdain from the azb faithful lol....(really,all 3 in that order,still love the Perry)

Anyhow,now I'm on a Pat Diviney so my collection is/was getting beyond fuctional....but I needed a break cue.So I had a phenolic break tip put on the cuetech.I did not change the weight (19 oz) or taper or anything else.

Now I gotta say,this is a pretty decent option for the old cuetech if you have one laying around.It breaks pretty freaking good,much better then the same cue with a hard leather tip,which is what and how I had been using this cue for the long last while.

But now I have the issues.I'm not talking about squating the rock in the middle of the table....I've never been good at that...now I catch hell just getting the cb to actually just stay on the table.I mean the percentage is pretty high right now (I dunno...40% maybe) that the CB will be airborne after a break.

What gives?
What should I do to fix it...soft breaking would defeat the purpose no?
Am I doing it wrong?

Its just a new tip and all of a sudden I'm a health risk to all of my PH's regulars lol.

Please help me help them ;) ....and it would be nice to shoot after the break every once in a while too....
Click to expand...

You probably just jack up too much on the break and the phenolic tip exaggerates the resulting jump. Either level your cue, stop bridging on the rail or break from the end rail.

pj
chgo
 
I had the same setup with a phenolic on an old Cuetec and it worked fine for a while until I picked up the BK2.

One of the better parts of my game is that I rarely lose the ball off the table on the break. The ball sails off the table not because of power, it sails off because the ball is slightly airborne when it contacts the rack. Basically your probably jumping the cueball towards the rack. For whatever reason the cue is elevated more than it needs to be during contact with the cueball.

I'm sure others will say the same.

This is actually a pet peeve of mine with some league players who seem to be addicted to sailing the cueball off the table. It's completely unnecessary and a strategic disaster in any match. It's unexcusable in higher level play.

Good luck! :D
 
If it wasnt for the Shaft that Cuetec has it wouldnt be all THAT bad of a cue.......but that fiberglass composite plastic feel is jsut sickening.....

I broke with a cuetec a few times and they do break well...but put a actual wood shaft on it and Im sure it would do jsut fine!


and I agree with the jumping on the ball.........Since you might be break at a higher angle. It is mimicking a jump and force the cue ball in the air off the table just slightly enough to where when the QB hit the rack it is airborne and jsut ricochets off still in hte air...Drop your elbow a bit and stroke level.. should reduce the QB jumping up.......atleast it helped me..
 
Breaking

Thunderball said:
I do break from the end rail fwiw....and bridge on it.
Click to expand...

I had similiar issues with my brother after he got a J&J break/jump cue.
Have someone evaluate your breaking form. I do see a lot of players that normally have good form except when they break. Also, if the cueball is more than 1 diamond forward when breaking from the uptable end rail, move it back to the diamond. Many end rail breakers put the cueball too far forward.

Having a shorter-than-normal stroke for the break shot is beneficial because it insures more accuracy. I break from the headstring, but I shorten my stroke about an inch when breaking, for accuracy's sake and for squatting the rock. I break with a J&J break/jump cue with the phenolic ferrule/tip.

When I had my big brother move the cueball back to a diamond ahead of the end rail, he became much more accurate, got better breaks, and control the cueball much better.

With a phenolic tip, the break becomes even more about form rather than power, so concentrate on your form when breaking.
 
Ok....so,new tip = bad results due to break stroke flaw.

Mini jump stroke equals airborne bouncing cb equals cb flying after rack contact.

I'll work on bridging at the foot line instead of the rail,which I would think,should allow for a more level cue....this would be a big change for me.

If the consensus is the back end of the cue is high,is this the right approach?Or aim higher on the CB from the same old end rail bridge with focus on the sticks ass end staying level?
 
Thunderball said:
I do break from the end rail fwiw....and bridge on it.
Click to expand...

You could try breaking from the side rail then.

The idea is that the CB happens to be at a high point in one of its bounces when it hits the head ball, which is why it's launching. So changing the distance from the CB to the rack is a way to try to hit the rack when the CB is at one of the lower points in its bounce.

Changing the speed of your break is another way to try to get the CB to hit the rack when it's at one of the lower points in its bounce.

Leveling your cue is a way to try to keep the bounces lower overall.

You could both change the distance and make it easier to level the cue by breaking from the head string closer to the middle of the table (not at the rail).

Good luck.

pj
chgo
 
Thunderball said:
Ok....so,new tip = bad results due to break stroke flaw.

Mini jump stroke equals airborne bouncing cb equals cb flying after rack contact.

I'll work on bridging at the foot line instead of the rail,which I would think,should allow for a more level cue....this would be a big change for me.

If the consensus is the back end of the cue is high,is this the right approach?Or aim higher on the CB from the same old end rail bridge with focus on the sticks ass end staying level?
Click to expand...

I agree with this
 
tip

Da Poet said:
I had the same setup with a phenolic on an old Cuetec and it worked fine for a while until I picked up the BK2.

One of the better parts of my game is that I rarely lose the ball off the table on the break. The ball sails off the table not because of power, it sails off because the ball is slightly airborne when it contacts the rack. Basically your probably jumping the cueball towards the rack. For whatever reason the cue is elevated more than it needs to be during contact with the cueball.

I'm sure others will say the same.

This is actually a pet peeve of mine with some league players who seem to be addicted to sailing the cueball off the table. It's completely unnecessary and a strategic disaster in any match. It's unexcusable in higher level play.

Good luck! :D
Click to expand...
I had a phenolic tip put on my grandsons cutex j/b and it playes as good as my custom!!!!
 
edit: I should have read the other posts before I posted the following...


My break isn't incredibly strong, but I do make balls (60% of the time in 8 and 75-80% in 9ball?) and whitey almost NEVER leaves the table... maybe 1 in 40 breaks I'll scratch or foul on the break.

You mentioned you do break from the rail... so there's a slight down force going into the cueball that makes it jump/bounce off the table and literally fly into the rack... hitting the object ball above center, thus bouncing off the table.

What I'd suggest is set up for your normal break. Create an imaginary line in your mind from the cueball to the ball in the rack your trying to contact (for me it's the head ball)... and move the cueball forward toward the rack along this line until you're able to make a comfortable closed bridge, and break from there. See if it makes a difference.

I know this is basic stuff, and you've probably already done this... but in my experience with this game, basics is what makes the game work best.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the suggestions to all who replied.At least now I have a few things to focus on.

Much appreciated,
Tball
 
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