one-pocket spot

mjantti

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What kind of a spot you would give to a opponent who is equally skilled in 9-ball, 14.1 etc. but knows nothing about one-pocket ? Assuming you know a lot or at least some one-pocket. So, how much worth is knowledge in 1 hole, 2-3 balls ? Or would you give 9-6, 10-7 etc. ?

The reason I'm asking that there are only a handful of people in Finland who can play one-pocket and I'd like to introduce them to this game and I think they would appreciate a nice handicap from me but I'm not sure how much weight to give. I'm not saying I'm a one-pocket expert, but I'm one of the few people in Finland who has read "Winning One-Pocket" :D
 
Oh, forgot. I'm talking about opponents who have skills to run 8-out without any knowledge on the game. Players from top 32 of Finland...
 
mjantti said:
Oh, forgot. I'm talking about opponents who have skills to run 8-out without any knowledge on the game. Players from top 32 of Finland...

Start 9-6 and adjust after each game. 10-6, 10-5, etc or 9-7, even, etc. Once strategy is learned, a shotmaker can do well, but I beat very good 9 ball players (who whip me bad at 9 ball) without too much trouble if they have never played. One pocket takes an entirely different mind set, IMO.
 
I agree with Frank, but I would start closer, say 8-7 or 9-7. You can always adjust after each game.

Troy
mjantti said:
What kind of a spot you would give to a opponent who is equally skilled in 9-ball, 14.1 etc. but knows nothing about one-pocket ? Assuming you know a lot or at least some one-pocket. So, how much worth is knowledge in 1 hole, 2-3 balls ? Or would you give 9-6, 10-7 etc. ?

The reason I'm asking that there are only a handful of people in Finland who can play one-pocket and I'd like to introduce them to this game and I think they would appreciate a nice handicap from me but I'm not sure how much weight to give. I'm not saying I'm a one-pocket expert, but I'm one of the few people in Finland who has read "Winning One-Pocket" :D
 
hndcp

I would probably start with 9>7...

just a note***
back in the old days...20/30 years ago, when I was learning the game...we use to shorten the game to something like 6>5 ... not playing the entire rack out...it was a very good way to learn...
After I played a few thousand racks...I have also played many games in the "south" with good players,
playing games like 20>15...24>18...etc. ...you do not always have to play just the common 10>8....9>6...etc.
 
ajrack said:
I would probably start with 9>7...

just a note***
back in the old days...20/30 years ago, when I was learning the game...we use to shorten the game to something like 6>5 ... not playing the entire rack out...it was a very good way to learn...
After I played a few thousand racks...I have also played many games in the "south" with good players,
playing games like 20>15...24>18...etc. ...you do not always have to play just the common 10>8....9>6...etc.

Now that would make a nice personal record... running 24-out in one-pocket :D

Thanks for the suggestions... I'll try them out with a couple of guinea-pigs...
 
more info...24>18

mjantti said:
Now that would make a nice personal record... running 24-out in one-pocket :D

Thanks for the suggestions... I'll try them out with a couple of guinea-pigs...
By using ALL of the 15 balls on the table (with no respots for the handicap) the player who made the last ball on the table has the choice of breaking the next rack or having the opponent break...continuing with the previous racks total.
 
I ntroduced one-pocket to my local 'Friday Night Game' about a month ago. I had only played one pocket about 10 times before, but i have watched it a tonne, at the DCC and Accu-Stats tapes. Anyways these guys are A+ players, and i am a B+. I beat both of them every game the first week. The next week i think i won about half the games, and the 3rd week i didnt win any!! Maybe this info can help you with the spots a little.
 
I've got zero experience playing one-pocket. Just read a good book on it, "Upscale One-Pocket", but the closest I've come to the game is watching a couple of partial games at a tournament. Seems like a great game, and I'm interested in learning it.

Can someone explain to me how one-pocket is played with handicaps? I can understand how weight can be given if both players' required number of balls add up to 15 or less, but I don't understand how games of 10-6 or 13-8, etc., are played. I imagine it involves spotting balls previously pocketed, but I don't know when or how they are spotted. If two balls need to be spotted, when are they spotted, and are they spotted one at a time or one behind the other? That would sure make a big difference!

Howzit work, guys?
 
ajrack said:
By using ALL of the 15 balls on the table (with no respots for the handicap) the player who made the last ball on the table has the choice of breaking the next rack or having the opponent break...continuing with the previous racks total.

Do you mean you would treat it as a new game or would you break from where the cue ball lies?
 
gwvavases said:
I've got zero experience playing one-pocket. Just read a good book on it, "Upscale One-Pocket", but the closest I've come to the game is watching a couple of partial games at a tournament. Seems like a great game, and I'm interested in learning it.

Can someone explain to me how one-pocket is played with handicaps? I can understand how weight can be given if both players' required number of balls add up to 15 or less, but I don't understand how games of 10-6 or 13-8, etc., are played. I imagine it involves spotting balls previously pocketed, but I don't know when or how they are spotted. If two balls need to be spotted, when are they spotted, and are they spotted one at a time or one behind the other? That would sure make a big difference!

Howzit work, guys?

Actually 8-8 is the normal game, and though that adds up to 16, one person will get to 8 before the other, so anytime you play 10-6, 9-7, etc, you play it as normal.

When we play (which is rare for me) and the spot is 10-7 or so, then the person who goes to 10 spots up the first ball he makes after his turn is over. If he were giving me 11-7, he would spot the first two he made. In the 11-7 game, if he only made 1 ball then played safe, that ball would be spotted, and he would have to spot his next ball as well.
 
tonyk said:
Actually 8-8 is the normal game, and though that adds up to 16, one person will get to 8 before the other, so anytime you play 10-6, 9-7, etc, you play it as normal.

When we play (which is rare for me) and the spot is 10-7 or so, then the person who goes to 10 spots up the first ball he makes after his turn is over. If he were giving me 11-7, he would spot the first two he made. In the 11-7 game, if he only made 1 ball then played safe, that ball would be spotted, and he would have to spot his next ball as well.

Okay. Let me say it in my words to see if I really understand, and you tell me if I've got it. If both players' required number of balls adds up to more than 16, then the player giving the weight, say 12-8, would have to spot his first four balls pocketed immediately at the end of his inning at the table. If he only makes one or two balls per inning, those get spotted at the end of each inning. I take it that means that if he makes more than 2 balls in an inning, the balls get spotted one behind the other.

I think that also says that ONLY the player giving weight spots balls, even if it is the other player that pockets balls first, right?
 
I check into this thread as the player who doesn't know much about one pocket and usually needs a spot. My experience says that when I play people whose straight pool (in which my high run is 91) and nine ball are comparable to mine and who also are knowledgeabe and expereinced in one pocket, I require a 10 - 6 spot for an even game. Just one man's expereince.
 
End of the rack

tonyk said:
Do you mean you would treat it as a new game or would you break from where the cue ball lies?
Begin as though it is a new game...place the cue ball where you wish behind the line.
 
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