One rail kick/bank...looks easy?

LAMas

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Is this method good..are there adjustments to be made?

04bankpool.jpghttp://billiards.about.com/od/playforposition/ss/BankShots_4.htm
 
Is this method good..are there adjustments to be made?

View attachment 254201http://billiards.about.com/od/playforposition/ss/BankShots_4.htm


I would guess its good, its in most publications on figuring the hit spot on the first rail.

A better, more accurate, faster and easier way to hit the target is to use the diamond system.


Happy New Year

John
 
Yes, this works well, but like most banks, adjustments for speed and collision induced throw must be considered.
 
That method accurately shows you the "equal angle" rail contact point. Of course the usual adjustments must be made.

I agree with 1P John that there are easier ways.

pj
chgo
 
Since all you are doing is finding the natural angle, it is far easier to find the natural angle by just using the diamonds. But finding the natural angle is just one step to pocketing the bank, so by itself it is not very useful. No?
 
Is this method good..are there adjustments to be made?

View attachment 254201http://billiards.about.com/od/playforposition/ss/BankShots_4.htm

I learned banking this way many years ago, and still use it frequently. I always referred to it as bisection of angles. About the only geometry I found useful! :wink:

It is super fast and easy to line up once you know what to look for. Works exceptionally well, but like ANY system, table variances, speed of shot, english, etc, ALL play a role.
 
Since all you are doing is finding the natural angle, it is far easier to find the natural angle by just using the diamonds. But finding the natural angle is just one step to pocketing the bank, so by itself it is not very useful. No?

Once a while I go to a bar where there's no diamonds on the table, well, they were there once, but with the heavy usage after many years they are invisible. How do you use diamonds on a table where you cannot see them? It's gotta be a better way to kick without using diamonds.
 
Once a while I go to a bar where there's no diamonds on the table, well, they were there once, but with the heavy usage after many years they are invisible. How do you use diamonds on a table where you cannot see them? It's gotta be a better way to kick without using diamonds.

For the bank that's shown, if I had to use a backup method it would be double the distance. Which can be a few millimeters off because you are pivoting on a point in space. But your triangulation method is likely to be off by a few millimeters too.

Triangulation just takes longer than double the distance, so really in most cases you would never use it. At least I have never come across a situation where I felt the need to use it. And I've never seen a good player use triangulation, whereas I have seen plenty of them using double the distance.

But if you like triangulation, there's nothing wrong with it.
 
Mini mirror method....I use that method...I think it is easier to use than any other method I have seen....It not only works ball to pocket as shown...it works ball to ball also...and I think is very effective...
 
For Line 1......cueball to the rail.....are you measuring to and then pivoting from.....the nose of the cushion or from the rail track (the worn groove you see on older cloth)?
 
For Line 1......cueball to the rail.....are you measuring to and then pivoting from.....the nose of the cushion or from the rail track (the worn groove you see on older cloth)?

I use the method..I use the rail nose as a reference point for ease of use.

It really does not matter though...As with all methods...they are only a tool to help you gain the feel for the bank...There are going to be too many added forces/conditions/variables beyond the exact geometrical angles to make ANY system/method 100% accurate....there will always be an element of feel based on table/speed/ball type/cloth type/chalk type/weather/amount of money on the line/ etc. when it comes to making a bank or kick.
 
For Line 1......cueball to the rail.....are you measuring to and then pivoting from.....the nose of the cushion or from the rail track (the worn groove you see on older cloth)?
To get the true equal-angle, use the worn track 1/2 ball in front of the rail (where the center of the ball changes direction).

pj
chgo
 
To get the true equal-angle, use the worn track 1/2 ball in front of the rail (where the center of the ball changes direction).

pj
chgo

Bingo - using the diamonds requires calculations and a great memory.:thumbup:
Happy New Year all and yours.:smile:
 
To get the true equal-angle, use the worn track 1/2 ball in front of the rail (where the center of the ball changes direction).

pj
chgo

I am by no means a geometry expert...but using the OPs method why would it make a difference between using the rail track, rail nose, (or other part of the rail) for the OB and CB line points??...seems like as long as you use the same for both...you will get the same intersection point.

I understand that the rail track is the true lines for the diamond system...but for this mini mirror system...seems like the rail nose is the easiest way to make an accurate visualization of the method...(for both balls)
 
I am by no means a geometry expert...but using the OPs method why would it make a difference between using the rail track, rail nose, (or other part of the rail) for the OB and CB line points??...seems like as long as you use the same for both...you will get the same intersection point.

I understand that the rail track is the true lines for the diamond system...but for this mini mirror system...seems like the rail nose is the easiest way to make an accurate visualization of the method...(for both balls)
The measurement is only exact using the rail track, but you'll be close using the cushion nose or even the diamonds.

Since you ask why, I'll bore you with the reason: The distances of the ball and the target from the far rail are in a certain ratio - in this example, the target (side pocket) is 4 diamonds from the far rail and the ball is 2 diamonds from the far rail, a ratio of 4 to 2 (same as 2 to 1). The aim point on the far rail is between the points directly above the ball and target, and it's distance from each of those points is in the same 2:1 ratio - it's twice as far from the left point as it is from the right point.

This is always true for any bank/kick - you can even use this fact to find the aim point. And that's why you must use the rail track to be really accurate - because if you use the cushion or the rail or the wall the ratios change.

pj
chgo
 
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I use this for some banks

Is this method good..are there adjustments to be made?

View attachment 254201http://billiards.about.com/od/playforposition/ss/BankShots_4.htm

Lamas,
I use this method of measuring for some bankshots such as extreme back cut banks into the opposite rail side pocket. I dont always use the point on the cushion nose as my shoot to point though. The more extreme the angle the less it works for back cut banks. Then you apply spin and cut further up the rail but its a great reference I dont miss many of these at all.

336Robin :thumbup:

aimisthegameinpool.com
aimisthegameinpool@yahoo.com
 
I use the method..I use the rail nose as a reference point for ease of use.

It really does not matter though...As with all methods...they are only a tool to help you gain the feel for the bank...There are going to be too many added forces/conditions/variables beyond the exact geometrical angles to make ANY system/method 100% accurate....there will always be an element of feel based on table/speed/ball type/cloth type/chalk type/weather/amount of money on the line/ etc. when it comes to making a bank or kick.

Thanks.
If you are aiming the CB at the diamond, it will be a different angle than aiming at the nose of the rail perpendicular to the rail from that diamond; and it will be a different angle if aiming at 1/2 ball inside of the nose of the rail. These differences make a different path for the ball.

Perhaps one shouldn't aim at the diamond, but at the nose or 1/2 the diameter inside perpendicular to the diamond on that rail for a geometrically accurate perception?

Happy New Year pool fans.:smile:
 
Perhaps one shouldn't aim at the diamond, but at the nose or 1/2 the diameter inside perpendicular to the diamond on that rail for a geometrically accurate perception?
The "rail track" (~1/2 ball diameter inside the cushion nose) is the accurate point for equal-angle geometry, and is about the right aim point for relatively steep angles. But for wider angles (and a rolling ball) it works better to aim a little short - aiming at the diamond behind the geometric point is a kind of self-adjusting correction for many angles.

pj
chgo
 
The "rail track" (~1/2 ball diameter inside the cushion nose) is the accurate point for equal-angle geometry, and is about the right aim point for relatively steep angles. But for wider angles (and a rolling ball) it works better to aim a little short - aiming at the diamond behind the geometric point is a kind of self-adjusting correction for many angles.

pj
chgo

This is correct.
We have new rubber and cloth on the tables and the correct spot to aim at is ~1/2 ball inside of the nose of the cushion nose. It works for corner pocket to opposite side pocket (nicking the tit) to the corner pocket down the long rail from the original pocket.

This wasn't possible with the old rubber.

Geometry is your friend.:smile:
 
This is correct.
We have new rubber and cloth on the tables and the correct spot to aim at is ~1/2 ball inside of the nose of the cushion nose. It works for corner pocket to opposite side pocket (nicking the tit) to the corner pocket down the long rail from the original pocket.

This wasn't possible with the old rubber.

Geometry is your friend.:smile:
I'm guessing shots went wide with the old rubber (because there was less rebound)...?

pj
chgo
 
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