opinion needed...

jed1894

jed1894

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I want to buy a sneaky pete stick and here's what I've narrowed it down to based on price, etc.

Lucasi: $119.00
Predator: $284.00

I'm not sure if Lucasi has a 12.75 mm shaft but that's the size I want. Does anyone know the size? I also want the uni-lock and I think both have it.

Any suggestions would be appreciated......$284 is as high as I want to go on the price.

thanks,

JED
 
If you ask me...neither...get a Fury for like $140. The Predator will ruin you and the Lucasi is not as high quality as the Fury in my opinion....for what it's worth.

Shorty
 
Shorty said:
If you ask me...neither...get a Fury for like $140. The Predator will ruin you and the Lucasi is not as high quality as the Fury in my opinion....for what it's worth.

Shorty
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply....I'm looking at the Fury now....but.....I don't want to open a can of worms here, but what do you mean a predator will ruin me? What will it do to me? I see under your name you use a predator shaft....please explain.
 
I would look into a maddison bob cue, should be in that price range and you wont be sorry.

Recently checked out Chad Carters cues as well (bought one that I think a friend is going to want) they play well and are in that range too.

Woody
 
Why not a Schmelke? I remember hearing good things about those, as well as Dufferin. Both are in the same price range as the Lucasi. Yes, both have uni-loc joints (the predator and lucasi). Is there some reason why you want a uni-loc joint? As for shaft size, you can get the shaft sanded down. All those cues are 13mm standard i believe.

If i were you, i would go to a store to check out both cues to see which one yur more comfortable with. You really shouldnt get a cue based on what other people say, because what works for the majority might not work best for you.
 
Try a Viking Cue.

This one in particular http://www.vikingcue.com/pages/cues/f78.html

You can change the stain color, shaft diameter, joint and weight when you order one.

Here is the link to the stain customizer:
http://www.vikingcue.com/flashfiles/Fseries/F78.swf

Here is the link to the Joint Options but I don't suggest any changes to quick release wood to wood joint.
http://www.vikingcue.com/pages/cues/joints.html

The retail is $280 but most online stores will give you 20% off and in most cases there is no tax and no shipping.

That would bring your total price down to only $224 and you would have a quality American Made cue.

This cue is available from any Viking dealer but I recommend Mueller sporting Goods. Here is a link to the cue on their web site:
http://www.poolndarts.com/index.cfm...4cf5cd437-80E582D2-D61C-4F06-B25B8819EB6E52DC

Even though I have my choice of any cue I want from Viking, I play with the above cue. The only difference is I have no stain color applied to bring out the natural beauty in the Birds Eye Maple and I had the Jump option installed.

Mj
 
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jed1894 said:
Thanks for the reply....I'm looking at the Fury now....but.....I don't want to open a can of worms here, but what do you mean a predator will ruin me? What will it do to me? I see under your name you use a predator shaft....please explain.
Click to expand...

I've been playing with a Predator s/p, uni-lock, for about a year. The wood to wood joint hits nice. It has a little green in the points and it says 314 on the shaft, so it's not a real sneaky pete, but that's not why I bought it.

Predators shafts have less squirt, so they play differently than some other shafts. Some players have a hard time with other cues once they've become accustomed to a Predator. Whether or not this will "ruin you" is up to the player.

Jeff Livingston
 
I have a Ted Harris cocobolo sneaky pete that I am very happy to play with. It's a standard 57" and has a flat-faced phenolic collar joint. I break with a Bob Frey 14 mm shaft/steel-jointed mahogany cue that kicks balls like a mule.

If you're going to break with the same cue you want to play with, you need a solid collar joint or it will break down over time from the wear. This is where Stainless Steel is the asset in break cues.

Barbara
 
chefjeff said:
Predators shafts have less squirt, so they play differently than some other shafts. Some players have a hard time with other cues once they've become accustomed to a Predator. Whether or not this will "ruin you" is up to the player.

Jeff Livingston
Click to expand...


Check out this squirt test done by Platinum Billiards.
https://www.platinumbilliards.com/rating_deflect.php

You may not want to stray too far away than what you have becom accustomed to.

Mj
 
MikeJanis said:
(snip)
You may not want to stray too far away than what you have becom accustomed to.

Mj
Click to expand...

That's why I'm not straying any farther into this topic...lol :cool:

Jeff Livingston
 
MikeJanis said:
Check out this squirt test done by Platinum Billiards.
https://www.platinumbilliards.com/rating_deflect.php

You may not want to stray too far away than what you have becom accustomed to.

Mj
Click to expand...

This little tidbit is interesting (to me, at least). I bolded what I think is interesting.

HOW AND WHAT WE TEST
We ask the question “which shaft deflects least?” because the butt of the cue has little effect on cue ball deflection. However, shafts are generally tested on the same brand of butt and the test weight for all is kept close to 19 ounces. All shafts are tested as sold by the manufacturer including tip type and tip curvature as noted. All tests are performed using a robot which makes precisely the same stroke with each cue, and for this test the machine is set to produce cue ball speeds of around 15mph. A series of four shots is made with each cue and the resulting cue ball deflection is recorded on a target 50” away which is exactly the distance between the foot string and the head spot on a 4 ½ x 9 pool table. The four shots are 6mm (about ¼”) and 12mm left of center, and 6mm and 12mm right of center, and these offsets are measured from the center of the cue ball to the center of the shaft. The actual cue ball deflection produced by each shot is measured and the average for the series is given in the chart below in millimeters and inches.
Click to expand...

I think the bolded part is interesting because the center of the shaft (or the tip) doesn't contact the cue ball. Tip curvature affects the actual contact point between CB and cue stick. What this means is that dime radius tips actually have more offset from center than nickel radius tips. In plain English (no pun intended), if you aim at the same point on the CB with either a nickel or dime radius tip, you'll hit the CB farther from center with the dime radius tip. My understanding is that more tip offset yields more squirt. That the Predator and McDermott families of shafts performed so well in this particular test with dime radius tips in a comparo which included nickel radius tips speaks highly of their affect on squirt. It also tells me that a Mezz Break with a quarter radius should never be used as a playing cue....

-djb
 
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