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Coos Cues

Coos Cues

Coos Cues
Toward the end of this video the core is glued to the wood with thin CA. Seemed intriguing to me so I tried it and the CA only went down the core about 2-3 inches. Walnut handle and jatoba core. I of course cut apart the parts to see what happened. Anyone else glue up cores like this? Would I need more clearance than the .006" I use to make the glue flow end to end? Let alone the question of the reputation of the author what do you guys think of this method?

 
Definitely need more clearance. You can tell in the video he's got way more than .006 there.
Might be a way to glue up something with a lot of voids you want filled up, and you didn't want to stabilize it first?
I can't really see myself trying it. I like tight tolerances.
 
Coos Cues said:
Toward the end of this video the core is glued to the wood with thin CA. Seemed intriguing to me so I tried it and the CA only went down the core about 2-3 inches. Walnut handle and jatoba core. I of course cut apart the parts to see what happened. Anyone else glue up cores like this? Would I need more clearance than the .006" I use to make the glue flow end to end? Let alone the question of the reputation of the author what do you guys think of this method?

Click to expand...
I watched that one as well. It made me uncomfortable just watching it. ;) Thin CA was never meant to fill voids, it works best with two extremely flat surfaces mated tight. Thick CA can fill slight voids but wouldn't flow. I'm not an expert by any means but my first thought after watching this method was I wonder how long before a buzz develops and how many forearms will develop a buzz. If it works for him, more power to him. For me, I'll stick with something I know works with no potential surprises down the road.

I always thought your idea of a tapered core and reamed tapered hole was the way to go. I've thought about this a lot over the years and was glad when you posted about it a while back. Saved me a bunch of time and expense by sharing your experience. If you were having trouble reaming with a full sized lathe I wouldn't have a chance with my Deluxe. Thanks for posting your experience! I still believe it would be a great way to insure complete glue/epoxy coverage and if there was a way to do it easily I'd be all over it. I also like the idea of having the core taper match the external taper of the forearm. It just seems to make sense.
 
Coos Cues said:
Toward the end of this video the core is glued to the wood with thin CA. Seemed intriguing to me so I tried it and the CA only went down the core about 2-3 inches. Walnut handle and jatoba core. I of course cut apart the parts to see what happened. Anyone else glue up cores like this? Would I need more clearance than the .006" I use to make the glue flow end to end? Let alone the question of the reputation of the author what do you guys think of this method?

Click to expand...
This guy is that Krown cue ripoff artist. Who gives a shit what this j'off does.
 
Sheldon said:
Definitely need more clearance. You can tell in the video he's got way more than .006 there.
Might be a way to glue up something with a lot of voids you want filled up, and you didn't want to stabilize it first?
I can't really see myself trying it. I like tight tolerances.
Click to expand...
I was thinking the same thing when I watched that. Looked to be quite a bit of clearance.
 
What's the Cue makers name?
I don't want to work on the possible future buzz problems.
Oh boy
The video itself, Not bad.
The sloppy fit cores and super glue.
PASS!
 
He doesn't mention using epoxy for the glue up. If he did, I missed it because I couldn't sit thru the whole 39 mins.
To each their own, however....
A few things stick out to me. The core/hole difference has to more than what he is saying as easily as he slides that core in and out before gluing and I want to see one cut in half lengthwise on a bandsaw after the glue has fully set.
I also don't like the way the inside of the host wood is smooth and heat glazed over after running a gun drill thru it.
I also disagree with his theory of gluing up the same day right after coring. I prefer to punch a .650 gun hole thru and let them sit for some time.
Boring the hole out later to fit the core piece days or weeks later opens the pores and roughs the inside to eliminate the glaze made by the drill.
Using the right epoxy seems to work best on my end and gives me more relief on getting the job done.
Tapered fit definitely has good merits but can be a bit of extra work to secure the fit you're looking for.

Everyone has their own theory of what's best.
 
kgoods said:
I watched that one as well. It made me uncomfortable just watching it. ;) Thin CA was never meant to fill voids, it works best with two extremely flat surfaces mated tight. Thick CA can fill slight voids but wouldn't flow. I'm not an expert by any means but my first thought after watching this method was I wonder how long before a buzz develops and how many forearms will develop a buzz. If it works for him, more power to him. For me, I'll stick with something I know works with no potential surprises down the road.

I always thought your idea of a tapered core and reamed tapered hole was the way to go. I've thought about this a lot over the years and was glad when you posted about it a while back. Saved me a bunch of time and expense by sharing your experience. If you were having trouble reaming with a full sized lathe I wouldn't have a chance with my Deluxe. Thanks for posting your experience! I still believe it would be a great way to insure complete glue/epoxy coverage and if there was a way to do it easily I'd be all over it. I also like the idea of having the core taper match the external taper of the forearm. It just seems to make sense.
Click to expand...
The trouble with having the inner core match the outer taper is at .014" per inch you would have to remove a lot of wood at the fat end making a reamer pretty much out of the question. IMO you only need enough taper to make the parts slide together freely and lock in place when they get to the right spot. We need a better way of tapering the hole than a reamer. Still thinking on it.
 
muskyed said:
I was thinking the same thing when I watched that. Looked to be quite a bit of clearance.
Click to expand...
Early on in the video he claims to have .004" difference between the core and the wood. My experience tells me at .004" the two pieces will bind sliding together. Just the nature of wood. .006" seems to be the least I have managed where the parts slide together end to end without binding. One thing's for sure it's a lot sloppier than that when he runs the CA in. As I stated I could only get it to penetrate about 2 inches when I tried.

Later he talks about aligning the grains perpendicular to one another and he proceeds to not do it when gluing although that sounds like a good idea to me.
 
If he band sawed one of his mock ups, I'd be impressed if it has no gaps .
If you use epoxy even, you better seal the outside of the tubes with epoxy and let dry for two days minimum .
Woods have holes that go sideways in them ( OFTEN ) .
CA is just about the worst thing you can use for gluing cores .
 
Coos Cues said:
The trouble with having the inner core match the outer taper is at .014" per inch you would have to remove a lot of wood at the fat end making a reamer pretty much out of the question. IMO you only need enough taper to make the parts slide together freely and lock in place when they get to the right spot. We need a better way of tapering the hole than a reamer. Still thinking on it.
Click to expand...

No disrespect intended, it is an interesting concept, but has issues.

There is an intrinsic engineering problem with trying to build a three segment butt with a tapered core. The problem is that the assembly is, by definition, over constrained. You can't have a tight taper and tight faces between the segments without a compliant material. This is why you never see tapered components used where they want to join two flat faces. One side can be tapered, but the other cannot. Look at all the machine tool holders--like my mill, it is a BT40 taper, but the ring for the drive dogs never comes close to the end of the spindle.

There is a dude here who always raves about another guy who builds a joint like that. The guy is supposedly a retired mechanical engineer. I asked him about this issue with that joint, he never answered.

If you wanted a taper through the forearm only, then had a straight taper at the A-joint, it would be an idea worth pursuing.

Best,
DeeDee
 
DeeDeeCues said:
No disrespect intended, it is an interesting concept, but has issues.

There is an intrinsic engineering problem with trying to build a three segment butt with a tapered core. The problem is that the assembly is, by definition, over constrained. You can't have a tight taper and tight faces between the segments without a compliant material. This is why you never see tapered components used where they want to join two flat faces. One side can be tapered, but the other cannot. Look at all the machine tool holders--like my mill, it is a BT40 taper, but the ring for the drive dogs never comes close to the end of the spindle.

There is a dude here who always raves about another guy who builds a joint like that. The guy is supposedly a retired mechanical engineer. I asked him about this issue with that joint, he never answered.

If you wanted a taper through the forearm only, then had a straight taper at the A-joint, it would be an idea worth pursuing.

Best,
DeeDee
Click to expand...
My main interest is in tapering the handle for the tightest possible connection to where you hold the cue with your hand and the full core which will transmit through to the shaft (IMO). My handles are only a bit under 12 inches so tapering a hole accurately shouldn't be an issue right?:ROFLMAO:
 
JoeyInCali said:
If he band sawed one of his mock ups, I'd be impressed if it has no gaps .
If you use epoxy even, you better seal the outside of the tubes with epoxy and let dry for two days minimum .
Woods have holes that go sideways in them ( OFTEN ) .
CA is just about the worst thing you can use for gluing cores .
Click to expand...
I wrap my wood up with masking tape if it looks porous to try and hold the epoxy to completely fill any voids that bleed out to the outer surface.
 
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