OTLB said:
I am sorry if I offended anyone really, I never meant to.
I do have alot to do, I really don't understand all this though. I guess I just must of dreamed up everything I said because this is like a nightmare to me.
Good Luck to everyone and I hope you all success. Cheers
Now that I have stumped you, and put you in a situation you can't get out of, let me explain something to you.
1) None of us that post here are anonymous, meaning we all know who we are by name, and where we work out of. You on the other hand, choose to hide who you are and what area you work in.
2) You provide information that though cute, has no use in the real working mechanics tool bag so to speak, as in nice idea in theory, but has no relevance to practical usage in the work place.
3) Your "Best level" concept is kind of like hunting with a 12gage shotgun for pigeons, if you shot one with it, there'd be nothing left to cook...LOL meaning "over kill" is a waste of time. How many levels a mechanic uses to level a table is beside the point, and more of a personal choice, what's really important is that the mechanic use at least a level that is going to be accurate enough to properly level the slate and table, and that the mechanic knows how to use it.
4) I contribute as much as I can here in the forums, as a way of trying to help other mechanics with more "practical knowledge" that can be made of use on the job on a daily basis, but at the same time, have little time for someone that just wants to play mechanic part time.
Now, to answer the question for you, I gave you a Diamond table just for an example, but have encountered the same problems on other slates, including but not limited to Brunswick's, old and new.
Even if there is a frame work to place a shim and raise the lower side of the slate to match the high side, I don't like doing that because it places stress on center seam of the slate which is already set in place, by trying to lift the slate at the center seam.
1) Take a ratchet strap, run it all the way around the table body and across the slate.
2) Place a bottle jack on the high side of the slate, at the center of the highest point.
3) Run the ratchet strap over the bottle strap, and ratchet it tight enough that it won't slip, but still remains a little loose.
4) Raise the jack against the strap, which will cause the jack to push down the high side of the slate, until it's flush with the lower slate.
5) Super-glue the slates together at the point of the jack, and when you let off the pressure of the jack, the slates will stay bonded together, leaving you a flat seam. The high side of the slate is now being pulled down by the low side, and the low side is being pulled up by the high side, so they remain in the middle...flat with no ridge
Glen