Painting

D

Dannydizzan

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi, I have read the post about painting in the forum from a while back. With someone who has limited knowledge of spraying lacquer can anyone please help!?

I have a pre 1959 sport king that was painted Texas A&M maroon. I am almost done stripping all of that and I have been researching the new paint job I want to put on. I spoke with a furniture restorer here in town and got some good advice, but I still dont believe they quite understood why I want to paint instead of stain.

I do a lot of woodworking projects and I know that this table wont look good stained. The wood is grained differently (Diff color veneers on same leg etc.) and with the spots I had to patch, I doubt the wood will accept the stain evenly.

I guess my question is this. After i prep the wood, when do I apply the color? Before the sanding sealer, after, mix with lacquer etc.

Thanks for reading, sorry for the long post.

I posed this question to a member who previously posted in case he doesnt read this thread, but I am open to advice from others. Also, what does "MOD. D-C" mean I found that stamped below the original manufacturer sticker.
 
Lacquer Questions

Hey, Danny,

I PM'd you some info on the spray gun, but can't tell if it went through. Anyway, I recommended the Astro Pneumatic HVLP with a 1.7 tip. I bought mine from SprayGunWorld on the internet.

jfe
 
Dannydizzan said:
I got it and appreciate all the info. How did you learn all that :)
Click to expand...

I was a general remodeling contractor on my days off from the fire department for thirty years. Toward the end, I had nice woodworking shop where I built cabinets for my jobs. Lacquer was my finish of choice for stained cabinetry. Most of what I know about finishing I got from a forum called WoodWeb. It is for woodworking and finishing professionals. Check it out.

Also, the Sherwin Williams Chemical Coatings store in Garland is staffed with guys that can advise your local SW store on any lacquer questions they may have.

jfe
 
I'm also a woodworker but with limited spraying experience. A few articles I read said to actually not use "paint" for color, but to use colored laquer. I painted a kitchen cabinet set with white lacquer (water based). It turned out ok, but it was also my first time using the gun. I think the place I bought it from was called hydrocote or hydroxocote.

Years later, I painted all my interior doors and trim molding (before installing them) with the same hvlp gun. This time I used home depot white water based paint. I had to thin the paint WAY down, but it worked ok in the end. I sure learned a lot about spraying during that summer.

I also made a project one year that was birch plywood and poplar because the customer wanted it painted white. I used home center paint, and a brush to apply it. After it cured, I wet sanded it, and then put my typical woodworking polyurethane finish over it. In other words, I treated the paint as a stain, and topcoated it with my regular clear finish at the time.

Finishing is an open ended question and quest!
 
iusedtoberich said:
I'm also a woodworker but with limited spraying experience. A few articles I read said to actually not use "paint" for color, but to use colored laquer. I painted a kitchen cabinet set with white lacquer (water based). It turned out ok, but it was also my first time using the gun. I think the place I bought it from was called hydrocote or hydroxocote.

Years later, I painted all my interior doors and trim molding (before installing them) with the same hvlp gun. This time I used home depot white water based paint. I had to thin the paint WAY down, but it worked ok in the end. I sure learned a lot about spraying during that summer.

I also made a project one year that was birch plywood and poplar because the customer wanted it painted white. I used home center paint, and a brush to apply it. After it cured, I wet sanded it, and then put my typical woodworking polyurethane finish over it. In other words, I treated the paint as a stain, and topcoated it with my regular clear finish at the time.

Finishing is an open ended question and quest!
Click to expand...

The main reason I want to stay away from paint is the dry time. I dont have a problem with the results of paint on most projects, but I hate messing with sticky oil base and being careful for a week waiting for it to dry. I know that time is exaggerated, but when you live in east texas and the humidity is 90% all the time, your paint feels sticky forever.
 
Air Dryer

Hey, Danny,

I just saw a small inline dessicant air dryer for a paint gun at Northern Tool. The price was about $28.00. That should work good to remove the humidity from that Tyler air. :)

Jfe
 
Hey JFE, I got one, we shall see if it works. I got a CH inline water filter + HVLP gun with 1.8 mm tip.

I am getting close to buying lacquer. Would you just use the SW sanding sealer as well?
 
Sanding Sealer

Yep, I always use the Sherwin Williams nitrocellulose lacquer and the corresponding sanding sealer.

Compatibility is important in a finish system. Most big time finishers agree that is seldom a good idea to mix brands. That's another advantage to Sherwin Williams....they manufacture and sell a full line of products for wood finishing.

Did you buy the Astro gun?

jfe
 
No, I didnt buy that gun (yet) but I may. I bought a gun locally and if it doesnt do a good job, I will take it back and tell them it doesnt work for me. Then I am sure I will find a better gun.

I looked up the one I bought and it had positive reviews and I can get my money back if I dont like it. I did look at that website you gave me, but price + waiting + having to keep it regardless was a deterrent.
 
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