Paul mottey vs. James white

Getnbzy

Getnbzy

Take 2 they're small
Silver Member
Does anyone out there have expierence with either 1 of these cuemakers work.
As far as quality, balance, look, feel, and hit of the cue goes? I believe they work out of the same shop and paul has been at it a little longer. I have seen a few cues from both and really liked 2 in particular from each. Was thinking of getting 1 with an ivory joint (flatfaced or piloted). And any idea on how long the wait is for each ? Any recommendations/feedback with as much detail as possible is much appreciated. Thanks.
 
There's no difference...

I have some Motteys myself and was considering getting a James White for awhile. I had this crazy idea that it would not be loyal to Paul if I went "behind his back" and got something from James.

Anyway, fact is...they both work at the same shop, they work on stuff together, they use the same telephone number and e-mail address....

I know this because I was told this by both of them. I just ordered 2 Whites which should be done within a year.

Hope this helps. The work that Paul and James does is incredible! You can't go wrong with either one. Just get one of each....
 
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I concur with this. Paul and Jim are two of the best cue makers out there. I have owned just over 30 Motteys and Whites and I can honestly say there wasn't one of them I wouldn't have used on the Pro Tour. They all played impeccably well. I still own plenty of Motteys and Whites, wish I had all the ones I sold back in my collection too....how many times have we said this???

Wait time....depends on the work on the cue....6-8 months for a plain cue last time I spoke to Jim, fancier works take longer....but its worth it.

Put it this way, you cannot go wrong placing an order with either of these two fine cue makers.
 
Getnbzy said:
I believe they work out of the same shop and paul has been at it a little longer. I have seen a few cues from both and really liked 2 in particular from each.
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Yeh...but how do you know who worked on which and how much time both put into the cues? Do you honestly think that Mottey starts and does every step in between to completion with every cue that has his name on it?
 
drivermaker said:
Yeh...but how do you know who worked on which and how much time both put into the cues? Do you honestly think that Mottey starts and does every step in between to completion with every cue that has his name on it?
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I don't think you should worry about how much time is put into each, it's a team effort. If you're going to do that, then what about all the Scruggs out there where his right hand man is Mike?

The most important thing is the quality of the work. The quality is definietly there. If the cue was not signed by either one, I would say there's probably no way of knowing which one did it.
 
eeng168 said:
I don't think you should worry about how much time is put into each, it's a team effort. If you're going to do that, then what about all the Scruggs out there where his right hand man is Mike?

The most important thing is the quality of the work. The quality is definietly there. If the cue was not signed by either one, I would say there's probably no way of knowing which one did it.
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You're right...and I probably should have said in my post that it doesn't matter. It's quality all the way....
 
Signature

Signed...Paul White or...James Mottey? LOL! Or a new line of cues called
MW or WM.
 
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Based on resale and what I have seen as far as value...I would vote for a Mottey over a White.

That's just my opinion...

Shorty
 
Jim and Paul build pretty much the same cue. If you want cocobolo you should have Jim build it. Paul has a problem with cocobolo dust and only builds one or two, if that, a year from cocobolo. Although Jim and Paul take some heat for making "tribute" cues, they do alot of their own designs that are breathtaking.

Joe
 
thediamond said:
I concur with this. Paul and Jim are two of the best cue makers out there. I have owned just over 30 Motteys and Whites and I can honestly say there wasn't one of them I wouldn't have used on the Pro Tour. They all played impeccably well. I still own plenty of Motteys and Whites, wish I had all the ones I sold back in my collection too....how many times have we said this???

Wait time....depends on the work on the cue....6-8 months for a plain cue last time I spoke to Jim, fancier works take longer....but its worth it.

Put it this way, you cannot go wrong placing an order with either of these two fine cue makers.
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I played with both of them, and the hits are some what driffrent to me ..
 
If your used to playing with with a Southwest, the hit of a Mottey or White will be very soft in comparison. I would say the hit is more on par with your Tad. I personally think both cuemakers make stellar looking cues, but hit too mushy for me.
 
ironchef. said:
If your used to playing with with a Southwest, the hit of a Mottey or White will be very soft in comparison. I would say the hit is more on par with your Tad. I personally think both cuemakers make stellar looking cues, but hit too mushy for me.
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This question just isn't for you, ironchef, however please respond. In your opinions, who do you think the top 3 or 4 STIFFEST cues are made by?
Where would Samsara rank in that stack?
 
ironchef. said:
If your used to playing with with a Southwest, the hit of a Mottey or White will be very soft in comparison. I would say the hit is more on par with your Tad. I personally think both cuemakers make stellar looking cues, but hit too mushy for me.
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I was thinking of getting a mottey with a flatface ivory joint and a 3/8 x 11 pin. Still think it'll hit mushy. Not trying to be a smart ass, just an honest question. How much different is their shaft taper to that of a S.W. as I have heard enough times that a cue's hit has almost more to do with the tip/ferrule/shaft then anything else. I am happy with the hit of my S.W., just want a cue with a little more work in it and my TAD, although fairly fancy, has a more traditional look to it (I love it just want something a little more modern I guess).
 
Getnbzy said:
I was thinking of getting a mottey with a flatface ivory joint and a 3/8 x 11 pin. Still think it'll hit mushy. Not trying to be a smart ass, just an honest question. How much different is their shaft taper to that of a S.W. as I have heard enough times that a cue's hit has almost more to do with the tip/ferrule/shaft then anything else. I am happy with the hit of my S.W., just want a cue with a little more work in it and my TAD, although fairly fancy, has a more traditional look to it (I love it just want something a little more modern I guess).
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Hey if you send them your SW shaft, I don't think they would have a problem matching the taper. Or if you like the SW style, look on our James White page and see a tribute cue he made.

Joe
 
classiccues said:
If you want cocobolo you should have Jim build it. Paul has a problem with cocobolo dust and only builds one or two, if that, a year from cocobolo.
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Joe,

The dust from cocobolo wood is poisonous. You should wear a mask when turning it. I don't blame Paul M for not making too many cues with this wood.

Barbara
 
Getnbzy: I don't think you can go wrong with a Mottey or White. A lot of people I know love to play with them, its a matter of personal taste. I think your best bet is to find someone local who has a Mottey or White and ask to test hit with it. The workmenship is just top notch, I personally love the look of Mottey's and White's.

Driver: I've only hit with so many cues since I began playing and collecting a few years ago. I'll say for sure that Southwest lives up to its reputation for me, a very nice stiff hitting cue. Bender makes a great stiff hitting cue as did his former company Omega/DPK. I had a semi-fancy Andy Gilbert cue with a flat-faced ivory joint that was just beautiful. I ended up trading it because it was just too soft of a hit for me. Scot Sherbine from Proficient Billiards makes a really stiff hitting sneaky pete.

The Skip Weston I have has a piloted ivory joint. Very traditional in build and look. Its not a stiff hitting cue, but not mushy either. It plays well for me because I designed it with Skip to my specs. I had a very plain jane Cognoscenti that I traded away that played decent. Not stiff, not soft, but in the end I didn't care for its hit too much. I've hit with a Ginacue with a stainless piloted joint that warped and it still played great! I recently took a few hits with a flat-faced Craig Petersen that was just phenomenal!

I will reiterate what everyone here knows; that is taper, ferrules, tips and joint design play a HUGE role in the hit of any cue. Example, my SW is from 1999 with linen ferrules and Moori tips. My shooting buddy Jack has a Franklin era SW with Micarta ferrules. My SW has more feedback, while Jack's micarta SW is solid with very little vibration. Both cues play well, but the difference in hit is definitely an interesting experience. Okay, no more rambling, everybody go shoot some pool now!
 
Barbara said:
Joe,

The dust from cocobolo wood is poisonous. You should wear a mask when turning it. I don't blame Paul M for not making too many cues with this wood.

Barbara
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I am aware. But I think Paul has less of a tolerance for this than most people.
There are other nasty woods. Hell the smell from cutting ivory reminds me of my dentists office.

Joe
 
classiccues said:
I am aware. But I think Paul has less of a tolerance for this than most people.
There are other nasty woods. Hell the smell from cutting ivory reminds me of my dentists office.

Joe
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Joe,

I bought my hubby some Thuya burl and he bought some Amboyna burl. He's made turnings from both burls and saved the shavings of the woods in small jars I keep closed until I want to smell them. It's a treat.

Barbara
 
opinions on Mottey

Ive had my Mottey for over a year, it took me 7 months to get it. It has 3/8 x 10 ivory joint. I shot with it for about 6 months and just like one of the other guys said it was a bit mushy. Remember Paul uses a 9-10in straight taper so its gonna be soft. Now I suppose that taper is OK for a piloted joint but it doesnt translate well flatfaced. So I would take this into consideration, maybe you can discuss it with him and make it to suit you. Actually I thought about getting new shafts for mine because I hate not to play with it cause it looks so good. Also Paul isnt much of a talker on the phone so be forewarned. Hope I helped
 
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