Pawn shop 101 - how to spot the diamond?

S

SilverDevil

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Hello all. I have been reading a ton of old posts and it is clear that there are a lot of expert pool cue identifiers in the forum. I know the finer details and years of knowledge may be beyond my reach at the moment but for a beginner looking to snag a great deal at the local pawn shop what are the top 10 things to look for when searching for a diamond? What is a nice looking mass production cue valued at 200 and what is a custom? Thank you.


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Not a cuemaker but I would like to respond.


cue fix said:
research, and lots of it.
Click to expand...

And then some more of it....


And look at as many cues as possible in person.


Some cuemakers are also experts on identifying cues. Some not so much. Depends on their experience really, and perhaps their inclination.

And even experts usually have areas of strengths and weaknesses depending on their experience.

The Devil is in the details.

It's not always just about identifying when finding that diamond but about recognizing quality features.

MUST READ skins made a nice post here: http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=414747


You should also see this: http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=447006&highlight=Lishan


Condition can have a great deal to do with it. More than a couple times I have seen somebody pick up an old production cue in rough condition only to find out their bargain cue would cost more to fix up than it was worth.


Old $200 production cues are a dime a dozen really, things like McDermotts, Mali and Meucci cues. An old Joss or Schon are worth a helluva lot more. And old Palmer values can be really very strong.



If you are looking for that diamond you will look long and hard. But they are out there. Second hand stores, garage sales, flea markets, pawn shops, and more. Even Ebay, thought it isn't what it once was.

One of the things I do is watch Ebay to learn. I always have my Ebay search for used cues open, but I am learning more than shopping. I am always have many cues in my watch list. I am not buying those cues, I am learning about them. I know what cues sell for...and I look at the pictures. I save many pictures from there as well as AZB and other sources. I have many folders on my computer with these pics and information I have learned.



Looking for diamonds?
My random thoughts: Top 10 Lessons or Things To Know:

1) Study, read, learn, watch. Never stop.
2) Be very careful if you consider a production cue that needs work. It will most likely be a money losing lesson. There are exceptions.
3) Never consider cues an investment. Do it for the enjoyment.
4) Know how to recognize quality (see skins' post I linked to)
5) Condition is everything. Know what repairs and restorations really cost.
6) Post pics on AZB if you are not sure. Lots of people like to help. We work for cue pics.
7) Be ready to pull the trigger. Have a set amount set aside. Don't go over that.
8) Just because a cue is old does not mean it is worth much. Lots of general public sellers think otherwise. Don't believe them.
9) Fancy or plain may not mean much either. Just look at Harvey Martin cues.
10) Refer to #1


I have found a Rich cue for $3 in an umbrella stand at a second hand store for example. So far...no Balabushka, Spain, etc. But they are out there. Keep looking. I know I will. :smile:




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Not a sure fire way but one easy way to seperate a custom cue from production would be a signature.

Is the cue signed?

That's one of the first things I look for.

A big pin that isn't 3/8-10 is another good sign.
 
Read and absorb as much as possible from verifiable experts and don't depend on the internet as your sole nor leading source of information.
 
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Type79 said:
Read and absorb as much as possible from verifiable experts and don't depend on the internet as you sole nor leading source.
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Probably one of the hardest things is that most info on the internet is questionable or wrong on almost any topic...even pool cues.




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Ooooh, fun thread topic!

I have been an avid cue hunter for years now. Found many great deals and steals. Lots of good advice on here so far!

I personally don't care as much about cosmetics. A good cue, if used and cared for properly will show some signs of wear, but will function just fine. Finish wearing or chipping around the joint or forearm or buttcap is no big deal. Be weary of cracked buttcaps, that means the last owner had a temper, and it could cause far more damage than a simple buttcap replacement (even affecting the A-joint).

Leads me to my next point. Tap the cue on your palm to make sure there is no buzz. Try to buy in person if you're outside a pawnshop (i.e. craigslist), and ideally meet at a pool hall. Goodwill has been a big goldmine to me moreso that pawnshops or garage sales. Never bought anything at a live in person auction either, not even ebay surprisingly. Try simply asking around the pool hall as well. There's always someone who'll know someone who has a cue for sale.

Production or custom?
Don't buy crap. If you pick a production cue, buy something that will last (i.e. not a Meucci). I personally dig Mali's.
If you buy custom, you will find a lot of unknown cues. Some of these will be amazing, most of them will be crap.
You really have to try hard to f*ck up a Sneaky Pete. Those that are custom made (even by an unknown garage based hobbyist) are always good bets.
You probably wont find a nice custom for cheap by a relatively reknown maker. I have once or twice, but only due to my vigilance. I've had an excellent record finding rare or well made cases for cheap, however.

Look for flush ferrules that don't have cracks, and well maintained tips (tough these can be easily replaced).
Older phenolic will have an aged look. Be wary of any swelling under the finish.
I like to avoid metal rings for the above reason.
Is it straight together and apart? Roll that sh*t on the rail.

Search terms that are useful: "unknown, custom, sneaky, pool cue, pool stick , billiards, snooker"
You will find a lot of people asking wayyy to much for super unremarkable cues.


TL;DR
1. Learn about how cues are made. It will teach you what to look for, and will likely result in a change of tastes.
2. Search, search. search. Everywhere. Ebay, Craigslist, Goodwill, garage sales, and pawn shops.
3. Inspect closely.
4 If it's not an auction, always haggle!
5. Be careful, this can easily become an addiction.

Last note. I've always bought and sold cues for the main reason being that they appealed to me. I keep the ones I like if they hit will (subjective), and sell anything that doesn't. If you think of selling a cue and you might regret it, you will regret it.
 
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Most pawn shops use the web now, and sell on Ebay. If you want to find a diamond in the rough, you almost have to go into the sticks and spend a ton of fuel looking. It isn't like it used to be.
 
TNOriginals said:
Most pawn shops use the web now, and sell on Ebay. If you want to find a diamond in the rough, you almost have to go into the sticks and spend a ton of fuel looking. It isn't like it used to be.
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That's true. But the internet is full of misinformation. And pawn shops screw up anyway occasionally.

It isn't what it used to be, but still worth looking. I wouldn't go driving all over the place, but when I have time I do stop in shops I pass.

In addition, even those pawn shops selling online occasionally have bargains. Usually they are way over priced though. Some are on Ebay, some have their own sites, and many are on pawn shop sites...like buya.


I got a like new Joss at a pawn shop for $90. And my buddy recently picked up a pristine Meucci Originals with a nice Porper case and break cue all for $60 at a pawn shop.



Worth checking, but I wouldn't burn time and fuel going out of my way.

If you don't look you will not find it...if I do look I might.

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