perfect temperature
- Thread starter Gary G
- Start date
I don't know the answer.
But for Hanks pool room in Wheatridge Colorado the ideal temperature is anything above very cold in the winter and below very hot in the summer.
Hank is not big on heat or A/C.
I'm not sure there's A/C there.
Lots of $1.00 bottled water.
But for Hanks pool room in Wheatridge Colorado the ideal temperature is anything above very cold in the winter and below very hot in the summer.
Hank is not big on heat or A/C.
I'm not sure there's A/C there.
Lots of $1.00 bottled water.
70 degrees at 45% would be nice.
Yes, it absolutely depends on where your room is located, and for a lot of complex reasons that can be hard to pinpoint and are not always intuitively logical.
I'd say the ideal temp/relative humidity is one which you can easily maintain and that doesn't harm the building (or your health) over time. Indoor relative humidity higher than 40% is hard to maintain in the coldest part of winter here in the Northeast without using massive humidifiers, and even if you could, all that water vapor in the air will condense inside your cold exterior walls and promote mold, and even rot.
A lot also depends on how much air infiltration occurs in the building. Extremely tight houses designed to conserve energy don't allow an awful lot of air infiltration, and can lead to illness if you try to raise the indoor relative humidity too high. My old house was drafty as a barn. I could put two full cords of wet firewood in the basement with the wood stove and the wood would be down to about 20% moisture content within 3 weeks. That's about 400 gallons of water being released directly into the inside air during that time, or close to 20 gallons/day. In spite of all that water lost to the indoor environment, the relative humidity never rose above 40% (as measure by a weather-grade sling psychrometer).
Despite all that water evaporating into the air, the windows remained frost-free after only a few days drying time, at which point the indoor relative humidity dropped below 30%RH, and continued to drop until I introduced more green wood. That basement had lots of leaks, plus the wood stove drew in tons of dry outside combustion air. If I added all that water to the air in an ultra-tight home like I currently own, I would have had a mold problem for sure.
So, while there may be an theoretically "ideal" temp/humidity for maximum comfort, it may not be feasible (or wise) to try to attain it in certain locations and at certain times of the year.
Here's a short article that sums up the problem with controlling indoor humidity in the winter:
http://www.startribune.com/fixit-what-is-the-ideal-winter-indoor-humidity-level/11468916/
These are much bigger problems during northern winters, but they will occur to a lesser degree anywhere that the indoors must be heated to maintain comfortable living conditions.
Air conditioning brings with it a whole other set of problems that are too complex to summarize in a forum post. Best thing to know is that AC units that are too large for the size of the dwelling (large central air units) don't cycle often enough to remove a lot of water vapor that infiltrates into the building when it is very hot and humid outside. Lowering the temp of the air without also removing water from it will raise the relative humidity of that air to a level that is both unhealthy and will make for very poor playing conditions. This is especially problematic in the hot and humid southern states.
Bottom line? Move to SoCal, where indoor conditions are a lot easier to manage.
