pfd titlist conversion set!!

CueJunkiee

CueJunkiee

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My pool hall owner looking to sell this set. Not sure his exact figure but i know he wants over 3k. PM me for any details and other pics
excuse the fluff-this was ebay auction descript..

Matched set of masterfully done Brunswick titlest identical cues. Cues were done around 1992, Paul or Ellen at PFD Studios could give you a better idea when exactly they were done. Paul Drexler does incredible work as can be seen at pfdcues.com A true cue enthusiast rare find!!
The Cues:
Thinner handle on playing cue, and slightly thicker on the jump break.
One cue is a jump break that has classic 5/16-14 thread stainless joint and a uni-lock quick release joint above the handle for the jump portion. This butt weighs in at 16.2oz.
Other cue is classic playing cue with 5/16-14 joint with matching collars so all shafts can be used for either cue. This butt weighs in at 15.0 oz
Both cues are identical with very dark rosewood points with 4 veneers of purple-green-brown and maple. PFD Studios (Paul Drexler) of Connecticut added ivory spears to the tips of the points to even the length out for appearance and ivory diamonds in the forearm points. Also added ivory diamonds into the butt with cocobolo windows and recut points of cocobolo in forearm too . Also added were the Gorgeous checked rings of ivory and maple. Butt caps are not ivory.
Both cues are adorned with superb black leather wraps. On the decorative ring over the buttcap is an inscription on both cues which reads "Brunswick house cue converted by PFD Studios."
Player cue has a butt weighing in at 15oz and jump/break butt at 16.2oz. Set has 2 shafts for each cue but are interchangeable. The range in weights are 4oz for all but 1 shaft with micarta ferrule that's 3.6oz. The purple heart shaft giving a stiff, hard break also has a yellow micarta ferrule and phenolic tip. Shafts are all apx 13mm and the 2 have old yellow micarta ferrules (rare with superb hit!) Matching Joint protectors for everything too.
Cues must go as a set. Don't ask to separate please. Everything rolls perfect, together and apart. This immaculate set (barring 2 rub marks on bottom of 2 of the shafts from the case it was in) must not be separated. The current owner, who is a pool hall owner in CT
 

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my buddy sammy probably wants to put these on ebay soon but i told him i'd put the post back out there one last time... so here it is.. they're some nice fancy titlist conversions.... curious why there hasn't been any interest... feel free to post me your opinions....i'll pass them along..
 
CueJunkiee said:
.... curious why there hasn't been any interest... feel free to post me your opinions....i'll pass them along..
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It's only my personal opinion, but you did ask. I have always felt conversions should retain as much of the original "look" as possible (especially the Brunswicks). These were obviously well done, but I feel they are a little overboard with the added inlays and decor rings. Just my 2 cents.
 
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TellsItLikeItIs said:
It's only my personal opinion, but you did ask. I have always felt conversions should retain as much of the original "look" as possible (especially the Brunswicks). These were obviously well done, but I feel they are a little overboard with the added inlays and decor rings. Just my 2 cents.
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I think they are beautiful, but based on the bottom picture, I don't think they are Titlists - from the point where the outside purple veneers meet to the grip, is too long.
 
They are Titlist

I've seen these cues in person and they are Titlist. The blanks Paul starts with are just like the oversized one piece cues on PalmerCollector's website. Becasuse they are so oversized, it is possible to do a conversion with very long points. With the longer points, the distance from where the purple veneers meet to the top of the handle also increases.
 
96supersport said:
I've seen these cues in person and they are Titlist. The blanks Paul starts with are just like the oversized one piece cues on PalmerCollector's website. Becasuse they are so oversized, it is possible to do a conversion with very long points. With the longer points, the distance from where the purple veneers meet to the top of the handle also increases.
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I understand how you get longer points, but here's a scan of a Titlist one-piece, and the points on those conversions still look too long. Compare where the splice starts at the bottom to where the outside veneers meet - it looks longer on Paul's set.

http://runscott.homestead.com/files/equipment/HOPPE1.JPG
 
I bet they are Titlists that were just taken down a lot, making the points longer than original? I looked at those pics until my eyes were crossed.
 
Well .. you have two people who said they were Titlist including 96supersport who seems to own and know a lot about PFD cues or even the cue maker in person.
 
CueJunkiee said:
my buddy sammy probably wants to put these on ebay soon but i told him i'd put the post back out there one last time... so here it is.. they're some nice fancy titlist conversions.... curious why there hasn't been any interest... feel free to post me your opinions....i'll pass them along..
Click to expand...
WAY over priced
 
The Price

I am aware of the general asking price of these cues, and I feel they are worth the asking price based on what it would cost to reproduce the set. That being said, there are very few people who would be willing to pay the price for the jump/break if the set was dismantled. The jump/break would probably do well as a player, but it is still a purpose built piece. I do hope they find a nice home together somewhere, but I don't think it'll be a quick sale. I also agree that most of the Titlist sold these days are far more traditional looking than this set, and that's my preference too.

Nice pieces, good luck.
 
PFD likes to make the points extra long and touch to within 2.5-3" of the joint. to do that, the cue cant be "fullsplice" no more cause the one piece cue has to be harvested at the splice, leaving the handle and the buttsleeve of the one piece cue off. He then build a new handle with maple wood( then hidden with a wrap), joins the splice which effectively now is a shortsplice. salvage some of the wood to make the buttsleeve. Effective and nice method to make points nice and long in my opinion.
i cant see well from the pics, but probably they are titlist splices. just the design perhaps is a bit overwhelming.
Very nice cue and good price consider what PFD willl charge now to make that similar set of cue. However, i am a traditionalist and such designs normally dont really appeal to me.

Bgrds
Raist
 
Jazz said:
Well .. you have two people who said they were Titlist including 96supersport who seems to own and know a lot about PFD cues or even the cue maker in person.
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That's true, and I respect their opinions, but the detailed pictures indicate that they might not be Titlists, and the following is inscribed on the cues: "Brunswick house cue converted by PFD Studios." They might very well be Titlists, but I would expect an inscription of "Brunswick Titlist converted by PFD Studios."

In any case, it doesn't really matter - I just noticed the points in the pictures didn't look right so I made some comments.
 
How my Titlist was done

It is true that in order to have the very long points, the full splice must be cut somewhere, however, the way you described it was a bit off. On my cue, about 4" of the butt end was cut off of the Titlist, an equal length piece of laminated maple was then added in between the forearm and the piece of the butt that was cut off. So basically a piece 3 or 4 inches long has been spliced in just above the buttsleeve and unless you keep your hand way back on the cue, it is still esentially full splice. This of course can't be true of the jump/break.
 
96supersport said:
It is true that in order to have the very long points, the full splice must be cut somewhere, however, the way you described it was a bit off. On my cue, about 4" of the butt end was cut off of the Titlist, an equal length piece of laminated maple was then added in between the forearm and the piece of the butt that was cut off. So basically a piece 3 or 4 inches long has been spliced in just above the buttsleeve and unless you keep your hand way back on the cue, it is still esentially full splice. This of course can't be true of the jump/break.
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Burt, I see what the issue is - the bottom picture (forearm detail) is skewed, making the points look longer than they actually are. The top picture shows that 4 extra inches of the splice have been exposed, as you said.

Very nice cues. I understand that it is nice to preserve the original "Hoppe" look, but you can also think of these old Hoppe cues as "Titlist blanks", like the ones used by Rambow, Gus Szamboti, Balabushka, etc. They didn't have a problem with jazzing up their Titlist-based cues, so why should we?
 
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