Phenolic Break Tip Question?

I suggest getting that tip replaced with something softer, I also use a White Diamond like a few other replies, the Samsara one is also very good. Phenolic is just blah, it had a bit of a fad thing with them for like a year then people realized it can damage the cueballs and did not really do much for breaking. White Diamond breaks good and jumps really good.
 
The dedicated break and jumpers do have a place. Er uh make that jumpers.😉 My $69 break/jump doesn't get the break action. It's nice having the variable length available for the jump though.😉
 
Bob Jewett said:
That's sufficient to mar the surface of the ball.
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I really don't get it. I don't see how it's possible to have two balls made of phenolic smashing each other, and that doesn't seem to cause a problem. But a phenolic tip does? The contact area should be damn close to the same.

I'm not saying it is or is not true. I just don't understand the physics.

That being said, I'm actually in the process of changing out my phenolic tip to a Bulletproof tip/ferrule combo. I'll start a thread on it after I get it installed and play a while with it
 
Wait, wait, wait , I will play with the breaker and no chalk........if you want to Gamble.😉
 
buckshotshoey said:
I really don't get it. I don't see how it's possible to have two balls made of phenolic smashing each other, and that doesn't seem to cause a problem. But a phenolic tip does? The contact area should be damn close to the same.

I'm not saying it is or is not true. I just don't understand the physics.

That being said, I'm actually in the process of changing out my phenolic tip to a Bulletproof tip/ferrule combo. I'll start a thread on it after I get it installed and play a while with it
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The contact area would have to be smaller I would think. If the tip is shaped to a dime you now have, essentially, a 3/4" ball hitting a 2.25" ball, wouldn't the contact point of the tip be much smaller than a 2.25" ball?
 
Chili Palmer said:
The contact area would have to be smaller I would think. If the tip is shaped to a dime you now have, essentially, a 3/4" ball hitting a 2.25" ball, wouldn't the contact point of the tip be much smaller than a 2.25" ball?
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Generally break cues are shaped to a much larger radius. Like maybe a quarter instead of a dime. In the contact area difference between phenolic tips and balls couldn't be very large to begin with, because neither one is compressing... At least not more then microscopic measurements

I'll pose this question to the expert.. Dr Dave.. let's see what his thoughts on it are.
 
buckshotshoey said:
Generally break cues are shaped to a much larger radius. Like maybe a quarter instead of a dime. In the contact area difference between phenolic tips and balls couldn't be very large to begin with, because neither one is compressing... At least not more then microscopic measurements

I'll pose this question to the expert.. Dr Dave.. let's see what his thoughts on it are.
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Agreed, my break cue is as flat as my first girlfriend ;)
 
buckshotshoey said:
I really don't get it. I don't see how it's possible to have two balls made of phenolic smashing each other, and that doesn't seem to cause a problem. But a phenolic tip does? The contact area should be damn close to the same.

I'm not saying it is or is not true. I just don't understand the physics.

That being said, I'm actually in the process of changing out my phenolic tip to a Bulletproof tip/ferrule combo. I'll start a thread on it after I get it installed and play a while with it
Click to expand...
You don't put chalk between two balls when they smash together. Chalk is ground up sand. It's better to have give on the tip side.

But you don't have to believe me. Get two brand new balls, put a thin layer of chalk on one of them, put them together at the chalk spot and shoot a hard combination on them. Look at the two balls. Or you can do the same thing with a phenolic break tip, but you have to start with a smooth ball.
 
Bob Jewett said:
You don't put chalk between two balls when they smash together. Chalk is ground up sand. It's better to have give on the tip side.

But you don't have to believe me. Get two brand new balls, put a thin layer of chalk on one of them, put them together at the chalk spot and shoot a hard combination on them. Look at the two balls. Or you can do the same thing with a phenolic break tip, but you have to start with a smooth ball.
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I didn't say I didn't believe you. I said I just don't understand it. But the chalk Theory makes sense. Dr Dave messaged me back and said he hasn't really studied it to know for sure.
 
Bob Jewett said:
You don't put chalk between two balls when they smash together. Chalk is ground up sand. It's better to have give on the tip side.

But you don't have to believe me. Get two brand new balls, put a thin layer of chalk on one of them, put them together at the chalk spot and shoot a hard combination on them. Look at the two balls. Or you can do the same thing with a phenolic break tip, but you have to start with a smooth ball.
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Thank you for this contribution. The tip was on the cue when I bought it. Probably going to look into a white diamond based on. Discussions here.

Used an older cue w a milk dud as a break cue for years just to spare the wear on my playing cue. Once I actually got a break cue w a hard tip I was VERY surprised at the action I had been missing. A little less control but MUCH more power w more balls consistently pocketed on the snap.
 
White diamond is what I have on my BK Rush. Big fan of it. The only thing I don't like is the fact the tip is white. The color blends in with cue ball a little too much for my liking. Great tip performance wise though.
 
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