Phenolic cue tips

SSDiver2112 said:
I tried the White Diamond for a while. It was better than the tip it replaced. I wanted to love it, but I felt like I had less control, and I couldn't get into the feel of the hit. I recently switched it out to a Bulletproof tip, and I am loving it. To each his own just like the playing tips.
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I feel like the white diamond has as much control on the hit as the best ones out there, Samsara, and whatever Predator uses on the BK Rush. When I hit with a few cues with the bulletproof tips I was not a fan, they had a harder hit, felt closer to the phenolic plastic ones than the hard leather or the white diamond. The hit is softer with the other tips, so I can see people that like a harder stiff hit on the break not liking them as much as a bulletpoof one.
 
hang-the-9 said:
I feel like the white diamond has as much control on the hit as the best ones out there, Samsara, and whatever Predator uses on the BK Rush. When I hit with a few cues with the bulletproof tips I was not a fan, they had a harder hit, felt closer to the phenolic plastic ones than the hard leather or the white diamond. The hit is softer with the other tips, so I can see people that like a harder stiff hit on the break not liking them as much as a bulletpoof one.
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Feel is a unique personal thing. For me I felt exactly the same as you, except swap the tip names. The White Diamond felt like a rock. The Bulletproof is a solid hard hit but doesn't feel dead to me. Getting people's opinions is the start, but ultimately you need to get on the table and try it out.
 
Das Cue-Boot said:
... Not all phenolics are made the same. Often plastics like this are reinforced with glass or mixed with other plastics, so you can have mismatches between cue tip hardness and phenolic ball hardness that may result in scratching the cue ball surface. ...
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I've been told that phenolic balls have additives to increase density. Looking at the standard density for phenolic and figuring out the density of balls to get to the measured weight indicates that it's about a 10% increase.
 
I had a custom jump cue built for me in the Phillipines last month. It came with a White Diamond. I hated it so immediately changed it to Bulletproof. While a decent break tip, I can't jump with it very well. I don't know where to go with that one.

I have a McDermott Sledgehammer break cue. I removed the stock tip and installed a Bulletproof. I did fairly well with this one, always pocketed balls on the break and the occasional 8 on the snap. However, it felt a bit dead to me on 9-ball so I decided to change.

I put a White Diamond on it last night and played league today. 9 breaks resulted in 4 dry breaks and 5 scratches. I'm cutting it off tomorrow.

Big question is what now. I have Zan hybrids, White Diamond, Ultraskin HH, Samsara, Kamui HH, LePro, and Triangles in stock.

Any recommendations???
 
tg_vegas said:
I had a custom jump cue built for me in the Phillipines last month. It came with a White Diamond. I hated it so immediately changed it to Bulletproof. While a decent break tip, I can't jump with it very well. I don't know where to go with that one.

I have a McDermott Sledgehammer break cue. I removed the stock tip and installed a Bulletproof. I did fairly well with this one, always pocketed balls on the break and the occasional 8 on the snap. However, it felt a bit dead to me on 9-ball so I decided to change.

I put a White Diamond on it last night and played league today. 9 breaks resulted in 4 dry breaks and 5 scratches. I'm cutting it off tomorrow.

Big question is what now. I have Zan hybrids, White Diamond, Ultraskin HH, Samsara, Kamui HH, LePro, and Triangles in stock.

Any recommendations???
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Why do you think your making balls on the break has to do with the tip?
 
tg_vegas said:
I had a custom jump cue built for me in the Phillipines last month. It came with a White Diamond. I hated it so immediately changed it to Bulletproof. While a decent break tip, I can't jump with it very well. I don't know where to go with that one.

I have a McDermott Sledgehammer break cue. I removed the stock tip and installed a Bulletproof. I did fairly well with this one, always pocketed balls on the break and the occasional 8 on the snap. However, it felt a bit dead to me on 9-ball so I decided to change.

I put a White Diamond on it last night and played league today. 9 breaks resulted in 4 dry breaks and 5 scratches. I'm cutting it off tomorrow.

Big question is what now. I have Zan hybrids, White Diamond, Ultraskin HH, Samsara, Kamui HH, LePro, and Triangles in stock.

Any recommendations???
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Its not the tip brother. If you're scratching that often you're either: A. Unlucky as fk or B. Not hitting them solidly. At all. I'm leaning towards B. I use a cheapass j/b i got from J&J with a WD tip. I make balls and park whitey regularly.
 
Jack Fate said:
This brings up the break cue I’ve owned for 20+ years. Mike Gullassy sledgehammer jump break cue . Furell & tip is one piece? ( resembles carbon fiber)
20 years ago many pro’s used this cue .
Always knew about the leather tip rule .
Apparently exempt?
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Same here, Bought mine from him at a tournament down in Round Rock Tx I think it was. I broke the tip once with an off center break but replaced it and it's still going strong. Been experimenting with it lately though. Had a White Diamond on it for the last month, It does okay and a little more control I think. I'm currently gluing a hard leather, Ultraskin HH, on it now to see how I like that.
 
Ask one of the local players who has a good jump technique to try your jump cue out. At least you will find out if it is the arrow or the indian. That is where I started. There are a couple of real tricks to making a ball jump.
 
There’s one particular CB at the PR I play at that, I swear, looks like the surface of the moon.

Guys were playing with it last week and I was kinda shocked. Had to be break tip damage.

Lou Figueroa
 
tg_vegas said:
I had a custom jump cue built for me in the Phillipines last month. It came with a White Diamond. I hated it so immediately changed it to Bulletproof. While a decent break tip, I can't jump with it very well. I don't know where to go with that one.

I have a McDermott Sledgehammer break cue. I removed the stock tip and installed a Bulletproof. I did fairly well with this one, always pocketed balls on the break and the occasional 8 on the snap. However, it felt a bit dead to me on 9-ball so I decided to change.

I put a White Diamond on it last night and played league today. 9 breaks resulted in 4 dry breaks and 5 scratches. I'm cutting it off tomorrow.

Big question is what now. I have Zan hybrids, White Diamond, Ultraskin HH, Samsara, Kamui HH, LePro, and Triangles in stock.

Any recommendations???
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I will guarantee that you making a ball on the break or not or scratching has 99% to do with the rack, the table and how you break rather than the cue or tip you are using. That is the very definition of what is called causal fallacy, finding causation between unrelated things due to coincidence. It's like if you drove a blue car and had an accident then started to say that blue cars cause accidents.
 
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The_JV said:
I'm stupid in such matters, but I could hazard a unsubstantiated guess... Maybe when striking the CB with the edge of the phenolic tip compresses...? The edge of the tip I mean, not the CB. While under compression, maybe that increases it's density thereby increasing it's ability to score the CB...?

I really don't know. I think it simpler to assume that some phenolics are simply harder than the CB resin.
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The shaft would bend well before that would happen. Also the force needed for such compression could not be generated by a human.
 
Kamui Sai tip.

The chalk should be inspected before breaking, as well. When I used an original Sledgehammer, the chalking was more like moving dust around and around.

Recently, I got an Avid (3/8×14) shaft. Decided to try it with a Sai tip. It worked well, but showed a big improvement when I used some Kami . 98 I had found in our clubhouse. The CB now is more likely to finish in middle table rather than near the back rail.

That chalk, also, improved the phenolic; although, to a lesser degree
tg_vegas said:
I had a custom jump cue built for me in the Phillipines last month. It came with a White Diamond. I hated it so immediately changed it to Bulletproof. While a decent break tip, I can't jump with it very well. I don't know where to go with that one.

I have a McDermott Sledgehammer break cue. I removed the stock tip and installed a Bulletproof. I did fairly well with this one, always pocketed balls on the break and the occasional 8 on the snap. However, it felt a bit dead to me on 9-ball so I decided to change.

I put a White Diamond on it last night and played league today. 9 breaks resulted in 4 dry breaks and 5 scratches. I'm cutting it off tomorrow.

Big question is what now. I have Zan hybrids, White Diamond, Ultraskin HH, Samsara, Kamui HH, LePro, and Triangles in stock.

Any recommendations???
Click to expand...
 
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I use these on my own cues, and have had very positive feedback from a lot of customers.
Very hard, yet they grab the ball well.
 
I contacted Aramith. I asked if an Phelonic tip cause damage. Here's their response:

"Hello,

The Aramith balls, while way more resistant than other balls will eventually get damaged over time, depending on playing conditions (frequency and intensity of play), material used (tip, cloth, chalk, table), external conditions (temperature, humidity) and maintenance.

The cue ball is the most used and is therefore more subject to heavy stress and strain. The use of harder tips may increase the risk of damages and phenolic tips are forbidden in some events for that reason.
It is important to note that the presence of scuff marks even with chalk is normal and does not affect the characteristics of the cue ball.

We recommend to maintain the Aramith balls with the Aramith ball cleaner. For deeper marks we recommend the Aramith ball restorer (in conjunction with the Aramith ball cleaner).

Hoping this answers your request,

Best regards.

ARAMITH - BELGIUM

Le 22/10/2023 à 16:40 "
Submitted on Sun, 10/22/2023
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IGotLucky said:
The shaft would bend well before that would happen. Also the force needed for such compression could not be generated by a human.
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I doubt that... on both counts. There's time coefficients and pressure vs contact area that needs consideration.

I have zero doubt a human could generate enough force to compress ~1mm/sq of phenolic. I also don't doubt that compression at initial point of contact would happen to some degree before the shaft would begin to flex.

I'm completely fine with being wrong, but it will take more than someone just believing I'm incorrect.
 
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