Phenolic Tip Preperation

chin0

chin0

"Chino Miss-A-Lot"
Silver Member
Hi everyone, how are you all doing? I just got my Kaiser Panther J/B today in the mail. It it brand new and has a phenolic tip on it. How do you prep a phenolic tip for play? I got it out of the case, and just broke with it, it miscue a few times, am I suppose to shape it or open the tip like a brand new regular playing cue? Any special care I have to look out for? Please let me know. It breaks like a ton, but if not hit anywhere near dead center, it would miscue like a mofo on crack. Thanks in advance.

P.S. I was thinking I should shape it like a new cue, if so, I would feel so dumb. :embarrassed2:

Happy shooting! :)

Chino
 
First of all...you want it much flatter than most. The flatter tip will not impart accidental english as bad on a mis-hit and also has a larger sweet spot making it easier to park the rock in the center of the table. Also if you have lathe access...while its spinning take the corner of a razor and cut some deep circular grooves. These will help it hold chalk MUCH better and cut out the miscues. See pic below...
 

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I don't have access to a lathe, I have a sandman tip shaper, can I use use that to shape it?
 
chin0 said:
Hi everyone, how are you all doing? I just got my Kaiser Panther J/B today in the mail. It it brand new and has a phenolic tip on it. How do you prep a phenolic tip for play? I got it out of the case, and just broke with it, it miscue a few times, am I suppose to shape it or open the tip like a brand new regular playing cue? Any special care I have to look out for? Please let me know. It breaks like a ton, but if not hit anywhere near dead center, it would miscue like a mofo on crack. Thanks in advance.

P.S. I was thinking I should shape it like a new cue, if so, I would feel so dumb. :embarrassed2:

Happy shooting! :)

Chino
Click to expand...

The trick to these tips is keeping the tip rough so it will hold chalk. One option is you can have a cue repairman, cut circular groves in the tip with his cutting tool. However, with time the groves will wear back toward flat, and you will have to repeat the process. Another method that works well just keep the tip roughed up, whenever it starts looking shiny and will not hold chalk well rough it up. When using English stay within a half a tips distance from center, when breaking never hit the ball above center, in fact it is best to stay at least a full tip below center. If you hit the ball center or above you stand the chance of launching the ball off the table. I normally keep my tip at just under a Nickels roundness which is a little flat.

I have customers who will gamble playing with a Phenolic Tip on their cues, they can draw the ball, spin the ball, and follow the ball with no effort do to nothing but stroke. So in the end how well you stroke the ball will greatly effect how well your works.

Take care
 
manwon said:
The trick to these tips is keeping the tip rough so it will hold chalk. One option is you can have a cue repairman, cut circular groves in the tip with his cutting tool. However, with time the groves will wear back toward flat, and you will have to repeat the process. Another method that works well just keep the tip roughed up, whenever it starts looking shiny and will not hold chalk well rough it up. When using English stay within a half a tips distance from center, when breaking never hit the ball above center, in fact it is best to stay at least a full tip below center. If you hit the ball center or above you stand the chance of launching the ball off the table. I normally keep my tip at just under a Nickels roundness which is a little flat.

I have customers who will gamble playing with a Phenolic Tip on their cues, they can draw the ball, spin the ball, and follow the ball with no effort do to nothing but stroke. So in the end how well you stroke the ball will greatly effect how well your works.

Take care
Click to expand...


Thanks for the advice. I used the shaper on the tip to rough it up just now. Looks a lot better, Thanks! :thumbup:

Chino
 
I just smack mine a few times with a tip tapper every now and then, and it holds chalk pretty well. I could easily shoot with mine if it weren't for the hideous sound it makes...lol
 
manwon said:
The trick to these tips is keeping the tip rough so it will hold chalk. One option is you can have a cue repairman, cut circular groves in the tip with his cutting tool. However, with time the groves will wear back toward flat, and you will have to repeat the process. Another method that works well just keep the tip roughed up, whenever it starts looking shiny and will not hold chalk well rough it up. When using English stay within a half a tips distance from center, when breaking never hit the ball above center, in fact it is best to stay at least a full tip below center. If you hit the ball center or above you stand the chance of launching the ball off the table. I normally keep my tip at just under a Nickels roundness which is a little flat.

I have customers who will gamble playing with a Phenolic Tip on their cues, they can draw the ball, spin the ball, and follow the ball with no effort do to nothing but stroke. So in the end how well you stroke the ball will greatly effect how well your works.

Take care
Click to expand...

Now I've got a Predator BK2 and I haven't ruffed it up at all but holds chalk ok but should I ruff it up to or leave it as is ???
 
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