Physics of Cue Making
- Thread starter Pigcarver
- Start date
I don't think anybody (as far as today's cuemakers) make the joint at .875. The "standards" are usually .840 for phenolic, and i don't keep track of SS joints that much, so i don't know the average for that, but i think my dad's Pechauer is around .855. And it's bigger than most, so i would say .830 + would be average for the SS joints.Pigcarver said:
As far as making it whippy? That depends on a lot of things; overall taper of shaft, overall taper of butt (straight or compound), butt (and shaft) materials, diameter at the other end of the butt, the list goes on and on.
Thanks,
Jon
It would make it a little more whippy. Probably not "substantially" but you would definitely feel a difference. .840" is standard on Schon and most other stainless joints. My joints are .850". Schuler uses an .870" and many Mcdermotts were larger joints also, whereas Meucci might make some .790".Pigcarver said:
I like .850" at the joint and dual-taper.
The forearm gets fat fast but not the handle.
Takes more work if you work with one taper bar but luckily I work on a Prewitt taper machine so to switch tapers is easier.
I believe Ted Harris and Jeff Olney also use dual taper on their cue butts.
Straight taper is just too whippy for my liking because it usually has a thinner forearm.
The forearm gets fat fast but not the handle.
Takes more work if you work with one taper bar but luckily I work on a Prewitt taper machine so to switch tapers is easier.
I believe Ted Harris and Jeff Olney also use dual taper on their cue butts.
Straight taper is just too whippy for my liking because it usually has a thinner forearm.
When you talk about a dual taper, I'm guessing this means two different straight tapers, yes? If so, at what point of the butt does the taper change?..bottom of the forearm? Also, what size would you take the buttcap end down to? Continue the taper through the buttcap? Any info is greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Thanks!
cue tapers
For what it's worth I will share what I have come to understand about tapers. I use different combinations of tapers for different purposes. One reason I would use a combination taper would be to help achieve the balance I want. For example if you are using a stiff heavy wood for the forearm of a cue and a regular maple handle I would try to taper the front of the cue steep and leave the handle big with a shallow taper. Another reason for a combination taper would be if the customer did not like a big change in diameter where he grips the cue I can adjust the taper accordingly. Some people put a very shallow taper on the but collar as is it helps in the inlaying, you do not have to inlay as deep to make up for the taper. A big consideration is whether you are naturaly balancing the cue or if you are using a weight pin. If you are using a weight pin I believe the tapering is not as big a deal and in most cases a constant taper works fine. I don't think one should set any hard and fast rules when it comes to how you taper but rather look at it as another tool applied to each individual cue giving consideration to the materials used and the customers needs.
For what it's worth I will share what I have come to understand about tapers. I use different combinations of tapers for different purposes. One reason I would use a combination taper would be to help achieve the balance I want. For example if you are using a stiff heavy wood for the forearm of a cue and a regular maple handle I would try to taper the front of the cue steep and leave the handle big with a shallow taper. Another reason for a combination taper would be if the customer did not like a big change in diameter where he grips the cue I can adjust the taper accordingly. Some people put a very shallow taper on the but collar as is it helps in the inlaying, you do not have to inlay as deep to make up for the taper. A big consideration is whether you are naturaly balancing the cue or if you are using a weight pin. If you are using a weight pin I believe the tapering is not as big a deal and in most cases a constant taper works fine. I don't think one should set any hard and fast rules when it comes to how you taper but rather look at it as another tool applied to each individual cue giving consideration to the materials used and the customers needs.