Playing Shafts vs Break Shafts

pogmothoin

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Can anyone tell me if, other than tips and ferrules, there's a difference in how playing shafts and break shafts are constructed.

I'm sure different makers may do different things like perhaps the taper. Just hoping to hear from a cue maker on they do it. Thanks.
 
In general, break shafts are constructed much stiffer than playing shafts so that more energy is imparted to the cue ball. Break shafts are often made out of different woods to achieve this stiffness. I use purpleheart for break shafts.

Alan

Phelps Custom Cues
 
I build them stiffer tapered or change the wood to laminated maple or purple heart to get the stiffness desired.
 
Break Shafts

Purple Heart, modified Euro taper, 13mm.
Didn't ask but I use G-10 ferrule, 3/8 tenon and Samsara JB tip and a Katalox
thread insert.
 
Large diameter tip and low deflection. Pro taper. The extra diameter makes it plenty stiff.
 
Just finished one that has been popular, sending it out tomorrow.

Purpleheart with a thicker taper and then a one piece phenolic Ferrule/Tip combo.

I have made many tips with phenolics, I like them so much that I started playing entire games with them. One way to make a phenolic tip better is a couple drops of Boiled Linseed Oil. It makes them trim like butter and they hold chalk much better, it's hard for me to go back to a hard tip now, phenolic is what I call extreme hard.
 
Purpleheart and ply laminates generally with a stiff euro taper about 13.2.
Phenolic ferrules with G10 or a pressed WB tip depending on the player.
Sometimes a juma insert
 
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Depends on the wood used, for maple and hornbeam I have a fairly stiff taper, 13mm tip diameter, short 3/8 tennon, G10 or phenolic tennon. If it`s a purpleheart shaft I give the shaft a longer taper.
 
Thanks for all the replies. The reason I asked the question was I was considering using a playing shaft, just putting on a different ferrule and tip, and converting it to a break shaft. From your replies there's more to consider. Thank you.
 
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