Pocket angle vs pocket curve.

boogieman said:
You can make a pool table play to masochist level with a little tightening and the proper pocket angles. 8.5' (oversize 8) at 42 degrees and 4 3/8" pockets will make you curse the day you were born. Well, that is until you figure them out. You get that and that homefield advantage is a given. You play out in the wild and it's like taking candy from a baby.

No curves there, just simple math.
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Yeah I’m only wanting to do the curved pockets from and aesthetically pleasing view. I really do think they look better. When I make the rails I’m planning on making the pockets tighter anyways. I’ve always thought the best would be make the at home table play as hard as can be so when I go out in the field I’m at an advantage. Going from my 8’ at home to the bar box tourneys are already like stealing candy from a baby. That’s when I went in the quest to make it okay even harder so even the 8’ers are easy.
 
Gravey39 said:
Yeah I’m only wanting to do the curved pockets from and aesthetically pleasing view. I really do think they look better. When I make the rails I’m planning on making the pockets tighter anyways. I’ve always thought the best would be make the at home table play as hard as can be so when I go out in the field I’m at an advantage. Going from my 8’ at home to the bar box tourneys are already like stealing candy from a baby. That’s when I went in the quest to make it okay even harder so even the 8’ers are easy.
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I am very interested to see your progress!!

TFT
 
trentfromtoledo said:
I am very interested to see your progress!!

TFT
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The picture that I have right now is sticker bombed to the gills lol. I let my niece and nephews put a ungodly amount of stickers on the table a couple weeks ago when they came and stayed with me. I’m replacing all of the rails and stuff anyways. But the story that I received from the guy who built the thing was that it came from three different tables. And he had to replace the bottom of the table besides the slate, slate bed and rails. He had a flood in his basement when he lived near the river. So the legs now came from a dining table and the there’s a few 2x12’s supporting the slate bed. I’m planning on replacing all of that. I have some 6x6 red eastern cedar that I have for the legs. And I’m also getting some 4x8 Cedar boards that I’m replacing all of the 2x12 with.
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Gravey39 said:
Yeah I’m only wanting to do the curved pockets from and aesthetically pleasing view. I really do think they look better. When I make the rails I’m planning on making the pockets tighter anyways. I’ve always thought the best would be make the at home table play as hard as can be so when I go out in the field I’m at an advantage. Going from my 8’ at home to the bar box tourneys are already like stealing candy from a baby. That’s when I went in the quest to make it okay even harder so even the 8’ers are easy.
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My thoughts on the whole "making a table play hard so when you shoot on a regular table it is easier" doesn't make sense. Tough pockets might make you better at pocketing balls but it will also take many shots away that you need to know. Tight tables can change the way you approach the game. If you will be competing on regular tables you need to know how much you can cheat the pockets and how cheating the pockets will affect your cue ball control. Its my belief that to be competitive you not only need to be good at pocketing balls but you need good cue ball control and position play, pockets that are too tight can affect that part of the game. I wouldn't consider anything bigger than 4 1/2" and I might go as tight as 4 1/4" but beyond that I believe you are changing your style of play too much. Besides, anyone halfway skilled should already be a good ball pocketer, its cue ball control and position play that really sets skill levels a part.
 
fastone371 said:
My thoughts on the whole "making a table play hard so when you shoot on a regular table it is easier" doesn't make sense. Tough pockets might make you better at pocketing balls but it will also take many shots away that you need to know. Tight tables can change the way you approach the game. If you will be competing on regular tables you need to know how much you can cheat the pockets and how cheating the pockets will affect your cue ball control. Its my belief that to be competitive you not only need to be good at pocketing balls but you need good cue ball control and position play, pockets that are too tight can affect that part of the game. I wouldn't consider anything bigger than 4 1/2" and I might go as tight as 4 1/4" but beyond that I believe you are changing your style of play too much. Besides, anyone halfway skilled should already be a good ball pocketer, its cue ball control and position play that really sets skill levels a part.
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I’m not worried about cb control as I got that down. I want tighter pocket compared to what I have, to make precision shooting better. Thats why I want to tighten up the pockets. I’ve played on a 9’ with tight pockets and had a lot of fun. The more of a challenge the better in my eyes. But going from my 8’ down to a 7’ bar box makes that table extremely easy. So how wouldn’t a 8’ with tight pockets make you better on a smaller table with bigger pockets or the same table with bigger pockets? I can tell you first hand that it does because I do this all the time. Most places that play league and tournaments around here are all on valleys bar boxes. There’s one place that plays on 8’ GC’s and they have tighter pockets then my table and they’re a blast to play on. I think it’s easier to adjust from a very hard table to an easier table, so I’d disagree with your views. Because ball control and position play is a huge factor on what ever table you’re on. You can use the same style of CB control regardless of table. Just have to adjust accordingly.
 
realkingcobra said:
Tight pockets won't make you a better player, but I guarantee you, practice will😉
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false, tighter pockets will make me a better player. Practicing on a table with tighter pockets will make me more precise. Becoming more precise with my shot making transfers to a higher level of play. Practicing on a harder table makes adjustments to easy tables a lot easier. Which also transfers to a higher level of play.
 
Gravey39 said:
false, tighter pockets will make me a better player. Practicing on a table with tighter pockets will make me more precise. Becoming more precise with my shot making transfers to a higher level of play. Practicing on a harder table makes adjustments to easy tables a lot easier. Which also transfers to a higher level of play.
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I am a proponent of tight pockets but can tell you the one thing it doesn't teach you is how to hit certain parts of the pocket to manipulate cue ball travel. There's not much pocket to hit on my table.

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Gravey39 said:
false, tighter pockets will make me a better player. Practicing on a table with tighter pockets will make me more precise. Becoming more precise with my shot making transfers to a higher level of play. Practicing on a harder table makes adjustments to easy tables a lot easier. Which also transfers to a higher level of play.
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Only up to a point. And it can be counterproductive in some ways. I do practice on tight tables and my own table's pockets are at 4.25" but much smaller than that, or changing the rail angles/cut could potentially change your game a bit.
 
rexus31 said:
I am a proponent of tight pockets but can tell you the one thing it doesn't teach you is how to hit certain parts of the pocket to manipulate cue ball travel. There's not much pocket to hit on my table.

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What size is that pocket?
 
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The pockets on my 9' Gold Crown are not exactly buckets but I wouldn't want any tighter of a pocket to practice for 8 ball and rotation games or probably even 14.1. My table seems to play pretty nice one pocket too but since Im not a high level one pocket player I can not confirm that this is the ideal size for one pocket.
 
rexus31 said:
I am a proponent of tight pockets but can tell you the one thing it doesn't teach you is how to hit certain parts of the pocket to manipulate cue ball travel. There's not much pocket to hit on my table.

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49603456301_6bf97eb126_c.jpg
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That’s what I’m shooting for is this size. Mine can fit two balls with a small space in between them. The curved pockets was just a aesthetic preference. I like the loon of them. So when I asked I just wanted to know the difference. I see a lot of Asian tables have them even on their 8 ball and 9 ball tables. Not just snooker tables.
 
Gravey39 said:
That’s what I’m shooting for is this size. Mine can fit two balls with a small space in between them. The curved pockets was just a aesthetic preference. I like the loon of them. So when I asked I just wanted to know the difference. I see a lot of Asian tables have them even on their 8 ball and 9 ball tables. Not just snooker tables.
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Get this idea out of your head unless you plan on playing a lot of Chinese 8B. You'll have to completely change your pattern play to get out on a table with rounded pocket openings. Shots down the rail, unless hit VERY soft will not drop on a rounded pocket table. If your intent is to play pool, tighten the pockets to your desired size. IMO, you're going to spend a fair amount of money dialing in a table that (honestly) isn't worth it. I understand you got a deal on it, etc. but you'd be better served using the money you are going to spend to upgrade your current table to buy a better table. If you look hard enough, you can find a smoking deal on a Gold Crown.
 
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