Pocket angle vs pocket curve.

false, tighter pockets will make me a better player. Practicing on a table with tighter pockets will make me more precise. Becoming more precise with my shot making transfers to a higher level of play. Practicing on a harder table makes adjustments to easy tables a lot easier. Which also transfers to a higher level of play.
There's been lots of solid advice that seems to be falling on somewhat deafs ears, but I'll throw in my two cents anyway.

You can practice precision on a 5" pocket. You don't need ungodly tight pockets to enchance this part of your game. As other have already said. As the pockets get tighter you lose the ability to manlipulate shooting angles that in turn alter what would normally be good pattern play. You may be forcing "precision" in your shot making, but at the expense of the rest of your game. Even though you're under the impression that you don't need to practice CB control. Your game will suffer without you even knowing it.

All that said... if you're serious about changing your pockets to a snooker style cut, just for sake of how it looks and not to play that game specifically. Then you clearly don't understand the reprecussions of that change when pool is going to be the main focus. Which leads me to believe you really don't have a grasp of what will actually make you a stronger player. You really should come to terms with the end goal. Pretty table, or becoming a better player.

I wish you all the success in your pool table reno. Looking forward to see how it turns out.
 
That’s what I’m shooting for is this size. Mine can fit two balls with a small space in between them. The curved pockets was just a aesthetic preference. I like the loon of them. So when I asked I just wanted to know the difference. I see a lot of Asian tables have them even on their 8 ball and 9 ball tables. Not just snooker tables.
Chinese 8 ball is a specific game with specific table specs, very different from regular 8 ball and other rotation games.
 
Get this idea out of your head unless you plan on playing a lot of Chinese 8B. You'll have to completely change your pattern play to get out on a table with rounded pocket openings. Shots down the rail, unless hit VERY soft will not drop on a rounded pocket table. If your intent is to play pool, tighten the pockets to your desired size. IMO, you're going to spend a fair amount of money dialing in a table that (honestly) isn't worth it. I understand you got a deal on it, etc. but you'd be better served using the money you are going to spend to upgrade your current table to buy a better table. If you look hard enough, you can find a smoking deal on a Gold Crown.
No, you must have missed the reasoning as to why I bought the table. I could care less about having a better table. If I wanted to do that, I would have just dropped $7000 and bought a diamond. I could have. I didn’t want to. I wanted to mess around and completely rebuild this table into my own table. It’s a project that I felt like doing and I have the time and money to do it.
 
No, you must have missed the reasoning as to why I bought the table. I could care less about having a better table. If I wanted to do that, I would have just dropped $7000 and bought a diamond. I could have. I didn’t want to. I wanted to mess around and completely rebuild this table into my own table. It’s a project that I felt like doing and I have the time and money to do it.
Cool. Looking forward to updates along the way. Enjoy the project. Does this table have T rails?
 
There's been lots of solid advice that seems to be falling on somewhat deafs ears, but I'll throw in my two cents anyway.

You can practice precision on a 5" pocket. You don't need ungodly tight pockets to enchance this part of your game. As other have already said. As the pockets get tighter you lose the ability to manlipulate shooting angles that in turn alter what would normally be good pattern play. You may be forcing "precision" in your shot making, but at the expense of the rest of your game. Even though you're under the impression that you don't need to practice CB control. Your game will suffer without you even knowing it.

All that said... if you're serious about changing your pockets to a snooker style cut, just for sake of how it looks and not to play that game specifically. Then you clearly don't understand the reprecussions of that change when pool is going to be the main focus. Which leads me to believe you really don't have a grasp of what will actually make you a stronger player. You really should come to terms with the end goal. Pretty table, or becoming a better player.

I wish you all the success in your pool table reno. Looking forward to see how it turns out.
It’s not falling to deaf ears. I mean I really only asked because I was curious, as to the table, I think you guys have the wrong opinions as to why I want to do this. I Don’t need a table that’s going to make me a better player. I’m content with my level of play. I want a table thats hard, fun for me to play on and looks killer. That’s all I want. And also the fun of making this table into my own as to why I purchased a ran down table and not a brand new factory table I’m not looking to make this table the best to practice on for my skill level. I’m looking to make this table look good and have fun on. I could care less about the rest. This is where league and tourneys come into play is to get my skill up. The table at home is just for fun. I think hard tables are the most fun. If the curved rails really play that big of a difference then I probably won’t do that and just tighten up the pockets like the ones guys photo in the thread. I just thought they looked cool and wanted to do them
 
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Cool. Looking forward to updates along the way. Enjoy the project. Does this table have T rails?
What are T rails? Sorry I’m not to versed in pool table part lingo. If you’re meaning the rails shaped like a T, then yes they are. They attach to the side of the slate with an insert inside of the slate.
 
What are T rails? Sorry I’m not to versed in pool table part lingo. If you’re meaning the rails shaped like a T, then yes they are. They attach to the side of the slate with an insert inside of the slate.
That's what I meant by a better starting point. I didn't say you needed to buy a brand new table but you'd be better served with a more solid project table to invest time and money into. Restoring a commercial style table with rails that bolt through the slate (not into it) would be a more worthwhile endeavor. A home style table with T rails isn't ideal but have at it!

I paid $400 for a Gold Crown I in need of work; a very solid candidate to rehab. I did the cosmetic restoration and hired the top mechanic in SoCal to do the subrail calibration and extensions, install new rubber and setup the table. I topped it off with a custom built light I built to match the table, restored a Gold Crown Cue Rack and in the process of completing a Diamond knock-off "Gold Crown" ball polisher.

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The table at home is just for fun. I think hard tables are the most fun. If the curved rails really play that big of a difference then I probably won’t do that and just tighten up the pockets like the ones guys photo in the thread. I just thought they looked cool and wanted to do them
I'd highly recommend going that route. You can make a table play very hard yet very true to what you will see when out competing. Here is the thread I made when I re-did my table. Lots of great advice posted by others in there. Some things to look up on AZB, using google, Diamondizing, Olhausen pocket rattle, pocket angle, extending subrails. Those threads really get at the heart of the situation and with some research you will be well on your way. With my table, I didn't want to extend the subrails as it was much too much work for me with a furniture grade table. Maybe someday but I'm more than happy with how my table plays now. It's very tough but well hit balls will go in. Poorly hit balls can still rattle and hang in the shelf. It makes going to 7' diamonds or valleys out in the wild just seem like child's play. I'm not great at pool, but on some days I am. I have a great time on my table and several really good local players play on it and I've never had a complaint. Tight but right is what you want. Curves do look really cool but it's just going to ruin the experience unless you go all out and convert it to a snooker table. The amount of work to do that is insane and will pretty much ruin it for playing pool.

To tighten the pockets, the correct way is to extend the subrails. The method I did works fine and no complaints. It's not text book, but it's not hack work either. Kind of a happy medium, but one that you wouldn't have buyers remorse on if someone did it to your table. You would be perfectly happy with the method I used even though the subrails haven't been extended.
 
It’s not falling to deaf ears. I mean I really only asked because I was curious, as to the table, I think you guys have the wrong opinions as to why I want to do this. I Don’t need a table that’s going to make me a better player. I’m content with my level of play. I want a table thats hard, fun for me to play on and looks killer. That’s all I want. And also the fun of making this table into my own as to why I purchased a ran down table and not a brand new factory table I’m not looking to make this table the best to practice on for my skill level. I’m looking to make this table look good and have fun on. I could care less about the rest. This is where league and tourneys come into play is to get my skill up. The table at home is just for fun. I think hard tables are the most fun. If the curved rails really play that big of a difference then I probably won’t do that and just tighten up the pockets like the ones guys photo in the thread. I just thought they looked cool and wanted to do them
Ok, my bad... I thought you made a comment about the style/size of pocket increasing your pocketing accuracy. From that I made the leap to you wanting to improve your game. If that's not the case, then have at it with reckless abandon.

As to the snooker cut pockets... Well I still think you're going to do yourself a disservice going that route. Pool is not pool on those pockets. I think it was mentioned earlier, but watch some chinese 8 ball on youtube. It will give you a sense of how sterile that game is. There's lots of 'standard' shooting lanes in pool that simpy can't be pocketed on that style of table. That's not a failing of pocketing accuracy by the player, but simply the physical dynamics of the pockets. Just my opinion, but I think a tight pocket with correct 'pool cut' facing angles would be far more enjoyable.
 
My thoughts on the whole "making a table play hard so when you shoot on a regular table it is easier" doesn't make sense. Tough pockets might make you better at pocketing balls but it will also take many shots away that you need to know. Tight tables can change the way you approach the game. If you will be competing on regular tables you need to know how much you can cheat the pockets and how cheating the pockets will affect your cue ball control. Its my belief that to be competitive you not only need to be good at pocketing balls but you need good cue ball control and position play, pockets that are too tight can affect that part of the game. I wouldn't consider anything bigger than 4 1/2" and I might go as tight as 4 1/4" but beyond that I believe you are changing your style of play too much. Besides, anyone halfway skilled should already be a good ball pocketer, its cue ball control and position play that really sets skill levels a part.
Very true! One tournament I play has a stream table with 4 1/8 pockets and it really does change the path of the cue ball from how you'd normally play shape out of that pocket.
 
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