Pocket Facing Thickness Question

4 1/8" and 4 7/8".
I think you mean 4 5/8”?
Edit: Disregard my question. I forgot about the newer rule that side pockets tend to stay big compared to corners. The 1/2” rule no longer applies.
 
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The balls tell the size in inches. Diamond cushions are readily available from various billiard supply companies.
I searched up diamond black cushions and only 8' max. Unless I go with Artemis whatsoever which is $580 or so...crazy
 
Got bored, wandered into the mechanics forum, found dis-information. Will add clarity...

-60A for facings merely because it closely mimics the reaction of the rail cushions. The idea is that if you hit the point directly the resulting rebound will be as similar as possible to the rest of the rail.
-Harder facings play easier then softer ones. Not what has been suggested earlier. A softer facing will more easily splay open as a ball collides with it. Larger miter angles rattle balls. Splaying = wider/larger. Harder facings will do a better job retaining their form and therefore more reliably direct balls into the pocket throat. Note that standard facings from installers are harder than 60A. Same reason why table vendors don't sell with 4" pockets.

See ya in another year ;)
 
-60A for facings merely because it closely mimics the reaction of the rail cushions. The idea is that if you hit the point directly the resulting rebound will be as similar as possible to the rest of the rail.
This isn't 100% accurate either...
Most cushions are in the 45-50A range. 60A is still harder, but the intent in going harder is to actually deaden the pocket, which makes pocketing easier.

There are a number of precut facings that are 70A+, which are generally only good for a barbox. This is because there is no slate shelf, and any ball that hits the opening is going to drop.

If you go too soft with the facings, the pockets will not just rattle balls out, but will launch them across the table.

About the only time that I will use 50A is for 3/8" thick facings. It's not my preference to install facings that thick, but I do offer it as a budget option for those wanting tight pockets, without the funds to do sub-rail extensions (which require a cushion replacement). It's a far better alternative than stacking facings.
 
Diamond table uses 60D 3/16". Yes, if the ball is breathed onto the Gandy I have narrowed the pocket, it will bounce out. It just has to be right into the heart to make it work, and at the correct speed.

I love my Gandy reworkded this way. It shelves depth may not be as deep as Diamond for a narrower miter, but it wider miter and the bouncing facing with narrowed pockets can put up a hell load of challenges. It is just amazing for practicing and challenging one self.

I have been asking this question for so long. Will Gandy 9 footer play as tough as Diamond current standard with narrower pockets about 4" ?

The answer is, definitely!! The pocket angle is slightly wider and keeping it the same = hell load of a challenge.
 
This isn't 100% accurate either...
Most cushions are in the 45-50A range. 60A is still harder, but the intent in going harder is to actually deaden the pocket, which makes pocketing easier.

There are a number of precut facings that are 70A+, which are generally only good for a barbox. This is because there is no slate shelf, and any ball that hits the opening is going to drop.

If you go too soft with the facings, the pockets will not just rattle balls out, but will launch them across the table.

About the only time that I will use 50A is for 3/8" thick facings. It's not my preference to install facings that thick, but I do offer it as a budget option for those wanting tight pockets, without the funds to do sub-rail extensions (which require a cushion replacement). It's a far better alternative than stacking facings.
Thank you, I was merely regurgitating what I'd be told in the past. I appreciate the correction.
 
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