Pocket Size
- Thread starter Buzzard
- Start date
On my last table I had shimmed my pockets down to 4". The more you shim the smaller the shelf gets. This made the center of the pocket different. With the smaller pockets you had to aim more towards the rail.
Also the more parallel the pocket facings are to each other the easier it is to make a ball going along the rail. With pockets that look like a funnel you will have a hard time making a ball that hits the rail before the pocket.
The funnel shape makes the pockets look big but they bobble a lot more.
To me a ball that hits inside the point of the pocket should go in every time. It gets very frustrating when balls that should go in bobble out.
Also the more parallel the pocket facings are to each other the easier it is to make a ball going along the rail. With pockets that look like a funnel you will have a hard time making a ball that hits the rail before the pocket.
The funnel shape makes the pockets look big but they bobble a lot more.
To me a ball that hits inside the point of the pocket should go in every time. It gets very frustrating when balls that should go in bobble out.
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Shimming Pockets
Everyone here is discussing which sizes are best when reducing pocket size, but my question is... has anyone actually done it themselves? that is shimmed (added facings) I'm getting ready to do it to my 9' brunswick and I've seen a couple of posts that say you beter know what your doing before attempting it. It seems to me that each additional facing must be staggerd slightly, in order to keep the angle correct from the tit on back (if that makes any sense) also, should the additional facings be glued together or should they just be held on by the cloth? Any input would be helpful!
Everyone here is discussing which sizes are best when reducing pocket size, but my question is... has anyone actually done it themselves? that is shimmed (added facings) I'm getting ready to do it to my 9' brunswick and I've seen a couple of posts that say you beter know what your doing before attempting it. It seems to me that each additional facing must be staggerd slightly, in order to keep the angle correct from the tit on back (if that makes any sense) also, should the additional facings be glued together or should they just be held on by the cloth? Any input would be helpful!
Cory in DC said:
I believe Diamonds shelve gauge is 40% of the ball will show while sighting down the long rail if the ball is placed at the point just short of where the ball will fall into the pocket; I think the ball is placed against the facing...sorry if this is confusing.
Jeffrey Gayle said:
From the WPA rules...
Corner Pocket Mouth: between 4.5 [11.43 cm] and 4.625 inches [11.75 cm]
Side Pocket Mouth: between 5 [12.7 cm] and 5.125 inches [13.0175 cm]
*The mouth of the side pocket is traditionally ½ inch [1.27 cm] wider than
the mouth of the corner pocket.
I would get someone who knows what they're doing. But if you are going to do it yourself here are some tips.
The new facing has to be glued to the rubber using rubber cement. Make sure to read the instructions for the cement or it will not bond properly. Line it up so that the back and the bottom are lined up. This way you will only have to cut the front and the top of the shim. After it has dried for a day or two then you must cut it very carefully with a razor blade. Make sure you have a good sharp razor blade. Try to get it to match the original cut exactly. Don't cut off your fingers!!! Then get some 40-80 grit sand paper and smooth it out.
I wouldn't bother trying to change the angle of the facings. Flat shims should work just fine. The smaller the pockets and the more pocket facings the less they will bobble. The only problem adding facings is you will not be able to bank off of that part of the rail and the ball will not react the same as it would if it bounced off the center of the cushion (slower). If you cut them good enough you won't even be able to see them under the cloth.
Put the new cloth on and you'll be a champion in no time.
The new facing has to be glued to the rubber using rubber cement. Make sure to read the instructions for the cement or it will not bond properly. Line it up so that the back and the bottom are lined up. This way you will only have to cut the front and the top of the shim. After it has dried for a day or two then you must cut it very carefully with a razor blade. Make sure you have a good sharp razor blade. Try to get it to match the original cut exactly. Don't cut off your fingers!!! Then get some 40-80 grit sand paper and smooth it out.
I wouldn't bother trying to change the angle of the facings. Flat shims should work just fine. The smaller the pockets and the more pocket facings the less they will bobble. The only problem adding facings is you will not be able to bank off of that part of the rail and the ball will not react the same as it would if it bounced off the center of the cushion (slower). If you cut them good enough you won't even be able to see them under the cloth.
Put the new cloth on and you'll be a champion in no time.
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Snake said:
You have a beautiful table and a beautiful room.
However, I don't understand the modern day thinking of tables so tight that people can't run out on. What is the advantage? How does one improve if he can't get out.
I understand that nobaody wants to play on 5 inch buckets that takes little or no skill, but, why in the world would anyone go below 4 inches. It just doesn't make sense to me.
mnShooter said:
You should see the hack job on mine and to think I tipped the guy too.
They play alright, but they look like hell.
Tim5000 said:
Aren't we all? Almost 30 years of coding for me. You should have been around for punch cards. Oy vey.
Hey ironman I totally understand what you're saying. I do have a difficult time running out, but my table has "forced" me to bare down and concentrate harder on my shots. I also noticed this has helped when i play on tables that have larger pockets, when I'm in a zone I run more balls. Max Eberle came to my house about a month ago and shot some balls, everything was crisp, clean and center of the pocket (he practices on tight pockets at hollywood billiards everyday). I know for amatures running out is tough but I believe that practicing on tables with tight pockets has its benifits. I'm sure there are some disadvantages also. Just my opinion. Thanks.
snake
snake
Snake said:
I had a similar table in my home at one time and soon got to where I just couldn't play on anything else. It seemed I got so consumed with cinching the ball, that I forgot all about shooting the right shot. Maybe that is just my problem though. I hope it works great for you. As they say, different strokes for different folks.
It is a beautiful room and you should be very proud of it.
If you want to shim your pockets with an extra rubber facing they are easy to cut if you use a stanley knife and some warm soapy water for lube.
same goes for cutting cushion rubbers.
If you want to build up the wood rail ends with wood shims, then cutting the three compound mitres is a real pain, ask me how I know
same goes for cutting cushion rubbers.
If you want to build up the wood rail ends with wood shims, then cutting the three compound mitres is a real pain, ask me how I know
