Pocket size

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Is that 4.25" corner? What size is the side?
 
Installed new cushions (GC-1) just before covid at 3&3/4 for corners and side. Great for practice. Just opened up to 4" and 4&1/2 better for games
 
Thats a little tight for amutures to me. I see guys on a table set up like this where I play and they cant get out, they cant run a rack and their never going to improve if they cant learn the full rack patterns. How can you learn the entire game if you never make more than one or two balls when your at the table? Not buckets, but 4.5'' should be a decent setup for most, 4.25" tops.
 
Installed new cushions (GC-1) just before covid at 3&3/4 for corners and side. Great for practice. Just opened up to 4" and 4&1/2 better for games
4.5" for side pockets? I had a custom rail maker make my rails with 4.5" for corners and the side pockets. The side pockets were too tight. Even a 750 Fargo thought so. So I had Glenn Hancock (King Cobra) widen them to 5". So much better.
 
Is that 4.25" corner? What size is the side?
The side is definitely way too big for 4.25" corners. Side pocket should be .5" larger than the corner pockets, unless the corner pocket is smaller than 4.25", in which case they should be 4.75". I also think side pockets should never be larger than 5.25" (which is still too large).

Anyways tight corners and loose sides definitely makes the table play easier for rotation because you can play patterns that are impossible with a properly sized side pocket.
 
Thats a little tight for amutures to me. I see guys on a table set up like this where I play and they cant get out, they cant run a rack and their never going to improve if they cant learn the full rack patterns. How can you learn the entire game if you never make more than one or two balls when your at the table? Not buckets, but 4.5'' should be a decent setup for most, 4.25" tops.
I and the folks I play with can get out just fine. The table is tight but fair.
 
The side is definitely way too big for 4.25" corners. Side pocket should be .5" larger than the corner pockets, unless the corner pocket is smaller than 4.25", in which case they should be 4.75". I also think side pockets should never be larger than 5.25" (which is still too large).

Anyways tight corners and loose sides definitely makes the table play easier for rotation because you can play patterns that are impossible with a properly sized side pocket.
He has replied saying they are 4 1/8" and 4 7/8" so right between 4.75 and 5. I also remember talk that a side pocket should not be any smaller than 4.75" . I know Diamond told me they use 4.75" on both their 4.25" and 4.125" corner pocket setups.
 
Installed new cushions (GC-1) just before covid at 3&3/4 for corners and side. Great for practice. Just opened up to 4" and 4&1/2 better for games
Any details on how it was shooting at the tight versions? Were you able to get into a playing rhythm? To me it's the jaws that fk things up.
 
He has replied saying they are 4 1/8" and 4 7/8" so right between 4.75 and 5. I also remember talk that a side pocket should not be any smaller than 4.75" . I know Diamond told me they use 4.75" on both their 4.25" and 4.125" corner pocket setups.
4.75" seems small enough. I've played on a table with 4.5" side pockets and I can say that unless the balls is like 2 inches or closer and right in front of the pocket you cant cheat it at all.
 
For several years I practiced on probably the toughest table this side of a russian pyramid table, a snooker table set up for golf. Something I learned was that too much practice on a very tight table without roughly equal play on the tables you normally gamble or compete on can be bad for your game.

Shot selection, patterns, deciding to play safe or go for it, even position for the next shot, are all affected by how tough a table is. It is something that happens over time so you may not realize the changes until you get on a typical table and your play is now too conservative.

I can't remember the first time I ran a table, most racks ran at anything, first tournament win, first nice score gambling, but I can remember my high run on those tight assed snooker tables. They were so tight that it seemed worthwhile to crossbank into the sides instead of cutting a ball sometimes. Once I started banking balls on the snooker table this was a new challenge. My high run was six balls banked in normal play. This was a combination of short and long rail banks, all one rail banks. I think I would have moved past that eventually but I moved to where snooker tables didn't exist.

Anyway, my opinion, tight pockets for part of your training regimen good, for all of your practice bad. If getting a home table now I would get it with slightly tighter pockets than those I play on at the hall. Maybe a quarter inch tighter.

Hu
 
3". No jaws, no shelf. Might be able to get a hair under 3" if you use the cushion profile beyond the lip of the pocket.
Scuse me. The aperture has to be around 3.25" Did it on graph paper, left out a row of squares. :D
The side pockets could be back cut to accommodate balls from any standard angle.
 
I have 4.5 pro cut corners and I think the sides are 5 inches on my diamond. I would be ok going down to 4.25 corners 4.75 sides but that would be limit. Shelf depth and angles really make a difference also. I really don't think playing on super tight pockets makes you play any better in the long run. You have to play differently. YMMV.
 
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