Point cutting fixture

DD Custom Cues

Cues by Drew
Silver Member
I just bought a mill and was wondering if anyone has a point cutting fixture that they would be willing to sell or if somebody makes a fixture for sale? I did a search on this and saw that Pete Tonkin was making one and looked very nice but was wondering if anyone else did before I call him and see if he still makes them. If you have one for sale please post or PM me pictures and price.
 
I just bought a mill and was wondering if anyone has a point cutting fixture that they would be willing to sell or if somebody makes a fixture for sale? I did a search on this and saw that Pete Tonkin was making one and looked very nice but was wondering if anyone else did before I call him and see if he still makes them. If you have one for sale please post or PM me pictures and price.

PM sent Chris
 
I just bought a mill and was wondering if anyone has a point cutting fixture that they would be willing to sell or if somebody makes a fixture for sale? I did a search on this and saw that Pete Tonkin was making one and looked very nice but was wondering if anyone else did before I call him and see if he still makes them. If you have one for sale please post or PM me pictures and price.

Not trying to step on someones sale but with the mill and a good vise you do not need a fixture. Purchase a couple of 12" parallel bars from McMaster
(a cheaper way to go is a long 24" piece of precision tool steel and cut in 1/2).
use two small coil springs to keep the bars against the vise jaws. I use 6 bit
carbide surface cutter (MSC). Cut 1 side and rotate that side toward the
mill, cut another side and keep rotating in the same direction. Your point stock
will be square when you are done. The bars I use are 1/4" by 1 1/2" for a two
inch high vise pad.
 
Not trying to step on someones sale but with the mill and a good vise you do not need a fixture. Purchase a couple of 12" parallel bars from McMaster
(a cheaper way to go is a long 24" piece of precision tool steel and cut in 1/2).
use two small coil springs to keep the bars against the vise jaws. I use 6 bit
carbide surface cutter (MSC). Cut 1 side and rotate that side toward the
mill, cut another side and keep rotating in the same direction. Your point stock
will be square when you are done. The bars I use are 1/4" by 1 1/2" for a two
inch high vise pad.

Like this? (From your website)

http://www.denalicues.com/shop_tour_page_4

MILLING_MACH_JPEG.jpg
 
I guess I didn't type it correctly. I meant to say a point groove fixture for a mill. The fixture that holds the forearm with the indexer.
 
I was at pete place last night talking to him about his fixtures and cues and he has no times to make fixtures he has 20-30 cues getting made for overseas sales. he was thinking of making them again but matbe in lots of 10 @ time possibly.

best of luck,
Craig
 
I guess I didn't type it correctly. I meant to say a point groove fixture for a mill. The fixture that holds the forearm with the indexer.

Any of the taig based cue lathe makers should be able to make you one up. There was one for sale here months back that I think was made by Chris Hightower. Sold in less than an hour for $250. Think the guy said he paid $400 for it new.

With a little imagination, taig catalog and mill. I don't think it would take much to make one.

Larry
 
Take a taig headstock with an indexer....several suppliers sell them on here....a piece of dovetail and tailstock will make the fixture your talking about....choose your length of dovetail....should be pretty cheap....20 a foot or a little more. Tailstock is about 40. And a standard taig headstock is about 80. Indexer about 50.....So package deal maybe 200 would get you there....
 
I have thought about doing it this way but was worried that I would get to much vibration because it's so lightweight. So I guess my question is for the people that use this style do you have any issues with vibration or repeatability?
 
I have thought about doing it this way but was worried that I would get to much vibration because it's so lightweight. So I guess my question is for the people that use this style do you have any issues with vibration or repeatability?

VIBRATION = steady rest at the middle of the forearm.
 
I would think mouting it to a 80/20 would make it more than steady enough. The taig lathes are not good for metal work but I cut my points on a taig midsize lathe and it works good...I don't have a mill or cnc. The fixture your talking about I assume 18 inches between centers would be good? Pm me and I might be able to help you out. I have some spare parts and even a headstock with indexing laying around I could let go of....in fact I have all the parts....hmm pm me or give me a call in daytime hours
 
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