Point question ??????

J&D CUSTOMS

J&D CUSTOMS

JL Cues
Silver Member
Guys,

I have been thinking about my point work lately. So I have noticed that my planer is leaving a small ridge on my point stock that I did not notice til I turned a coco 6 point forarm down today.
I put 6 points of maple in this coco forarm and at the end of a few of the points , I ended up with small gaps between the point and the forarm along 1 side.
I noticed as I feed my planer to clean up the point stock , as it enters it seems to be cutting deeper the 1st 2 inches or so on the pointstock. It is not jumping , or shaking , running really smooth. What would cause this miscut I call it?
Also , I have just aquired a nice jointer and router table. I was thinking of using the router table to cut the 45 degree angles on my veneers.
And was going to use the jointer to true up the point stock to maybe eliminate the mis cut my planer leaves.
Do any of you use either a router table or jointer for these purposes? If so , do you get better quality by doing so?
Been down from a recent surgery and can't run right out and try it , but am shuffling ideas of improvement in my head as I sit here healing. Just looking for some friendly advice and pro's / con's
Thanx ,
Jim Lee
 
Jim,
My suggestion is to plane your stock close then use a belt sander with a fence set up perfectly square to finish sanding the point squares perfect. Just get them close with a saw or planer and a few seconds on the sander will do the trick with very little hassle and a razor sharp corner.
 
I have tried cutting the miters in the Veneers using my router table, my jointer and probably anything else you can think of. Nothing I found works as good as a table saw and there is virtually no setup time like there is with anything else I tried. The biggest problem I had with the router and the jointer was tear out on the veneers if I remember correctly.
 
Hey Tony,
With the jointer I was refering to prepairing the point stock (before) veneers were glued up. Just the wood itself. With the router table as was cutting the 45 on the veneer pieces before glueing them to the wood point stock.
I was actually going to use L or V block aluminum or steele and preglue my points up and then instal into my forarms as 1 piece.
Talked to an older cue maker , not well known, that built this way for years. Says you get much tighter and neater points this way.
Just kicking around some ideas.
Thanx ,
Jim Lee
 
I do use the jointer on my point wood to true it up, but I like Chris's idea of the belt sander as I'm not always happy with the fit.

I first glue up the veneers to a 90 degree angle, then I have have some clamps I made up (I think Chris shows them in his book) to glue the point wood to the veneers. Then I glue into the forearm as one piece as well.

When trying to figure out a good way to cut the 45's in the veneers, I did try the jointer as well and it made a mess. I didn't have much success with the router either.
 
Ok Tony. So I am at least thinking the right way on the 1 piece idea. I have always glued up 1 veneer color at a time. Very time consuming , but did give me very good seal.
Hoping to up and around soon and trying out some of this in the shop. Thanx for your time and imput guys , very much appreciated.
Jim Lee
 
J&D CUSTOMS said:
Guys,

I have been thinking about my point work lately. So I have noticed that my planer is leaving a small ridge on my point stock that I did not notice til I turned a coco 6 point forarm down today.
I put 6 points of maple in this coco forarm and at the end of a few of the points , I ended up with small gaps between the point and the forarm along 1 side.
I noticed as I feed my planer to clean up the point stock , as it enters it seems to be cutting deeper the 1st 2 inches or so on the pointstock. It is not jumping , or shaking , running really smooth. What would cause this miscut I call it?
Also , I have just aquired a nice jointer and router table. I was thinking of using the router table to cut the 45 degree angles on my veneers.
And was going to use the jointer to true up the point stock to maybe eliminate the mis cut my planer leaves.
Do any of you use either a router table or jointer for these purposes? If so , do you get better quality by doing so?
Been down from a recent surgery and can't run right out and try it , but am shuffling ideas of improvement in my head as I sit here healing. Just looking for some friendly advice and pro's / con's
Thanx ,
Jim Lee
Click to expand...

A planer is just that, a planer. it will give you a nice flat side that is perfectly parallel with it's opposite face but it does not make a 90 deg. angle. If your out of true square has two 75 deg. angles and two 105 deg. angles before planing, it will still have those same angles when finished. A planer/joiner with a 90 deg fence can be used to square up stock but it just scares me to death trying to square a half inch diameter piece of wood on a joiner/ planer. I have a little jig made up that holds my point stock so that it can be squared on a mill or CNC. Bob Dzursky has one on his web-site. I don't think you could get very clean mitered veneers on a router table. I do use a router V-bit to cut my veneers but I do it on a CNC where I can make my final 3 passes just removing .002 per pass on folded veneers. If I'm not folding the glued up veneer stock then I cut them on the table saw.

Dick
 
J&D CUSTOMS said:
... I have noticed that my planer is leaving a small ridge on my point stock ...
Click to expand...

Small nick in a blade perhaps ?

Dave
 
No dave , blades are fine. It is like it is pulling it as it goes in and cutting the first few inches a lil deeper than the rest of the piece. Hard to explain. I may have to get some pics on here tomarrow of what I am speaking of.
Thanx guys,
Jim Lee
 
I think he is referring to snipe and one way to fix this is running continuois pieces through at one time.Using the middle ones as your good stuff and the other ones plane old maple or something cheap.
 
dbCustomCues said:
I think he is referring to snipe and one way to fix this is running continuois pieces through at one time.Using the middle ones as your good stuff and the other ones plane old maple or something cheap.
Click to expand...
I agree, with my planer, I make my wood pieces oversized so that I can cut off and leave the good part. It seems like there is just enough 'loose' fit when the piece first goes in, the front gets pushed down by the rollers, but the back can and usually will, float up alittle, thereby dropping the front nose alittle as it hits the blades, and digs deeper than in the middle. I think it's caused by the front roller assembly pushing down, but the rear ones haven't caught yet, thereby causing the board to tilt ever so much until the rear rollers catch and they then put down force and it flattens the piece parrallel to the cutters.
Dave
 
Exactly Dave. That's what it is doing. Bob sent me a link to a woodsite about snipe. Sure enough. I am going to look at it tomarrow.
Thanx guys for all the great info,
Now for all my other problems.....Not enough computer space for that! LOL
Jim Lee
 
rhncue said:
A planer/joiner with a 90 deg fence can be used to square up stock but it just scares me to death trying to square a half inch diameter piece of wood on a joiner/ planer.

Dick
Click to expand...

What I've been doing because it also scares me to run a tiny piece through the joiner is first cut the 1.5 or 1.25" square in half on the band saw. Then I take the two pieces and run them through the planer so that I have 2 perfectly flat sides. I then run each edge of these through the joiner until they are square. I check them with a small machinist square. Then I cut each of the 2 pieces in half again on the band saw and re-run them through the planer making sure I put the square side down. Seems to be working for me.

Somebody else mentioned to me (I think Joe C) that he trues his points up with the router on his CNC machine. That was what I was going to try next before I came up with the system I'm using now.
 
I cue my point blocks out with a veneer blade on my table saw. Then I have to do very very little sanding before I glue up my veneers to them.
I also like to use the belt sander for sanding my point blocks.
 
J&D CUSTOMS said:
No dave , blades are fine. It is like it is pulling it as it goes in and cutting the first few inches a lil deeper than the rest of the piece. Hard to explain. I may have to get some pics on here tomarrow of what I am speaking of.
Thanx guys,
Jim Lee
Click to expand...
Make you point stock longer. My planer does the same thing. I don't think I have ever seen one that doesn't.


For cutting the veneers a guy in Fla. NOT JOE B. makes the veneer blade for the table saw. I have to find the name.
 
J&D CUSTOMS said:
No dave , blades are fine. It is like it is pulling it as it goes in and cutting the first few inches a lil deeper than the rest of the piece. Hard to explain. I may have to get some pics on here tomarrow of what I am speaking of.
Thanx guys,
Jim Lee
Click to expand...

Gottcha ... it's like the outfeed roller pushed the stock down a little harder and lightened the cut starting there.

Dave
 
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