points are not lining up.

B

billl67

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a taper shaper.I was tapering a john davis full splice and the points seem not to be even,I faced each end again and it does not seem to be evening up.What to do?
billl67
 
Just facing the ends won't do anything other than make the cue shorter.
That's not the problem and facing isn't the fix.
Think shim.
KJ
 
Points

I own the HIGHTOWER book,Im in the process of shimming the joint end with cigarette paper to even the points out,thank you all
BILLL67
 
for future reference, center drill before you do anything next time. Also, would be a good idea to figure out what your doing on something cheap
 
points worked

I just wanted to thank JIM BOB from JIM BOB'S CUE REPAIR for the help on getting my points on my JOHN DAVIS FULL SPLICE blank to work.
THANK YOU
BILLL67
 
Jim Bob is very helpfull

billl67 said:
I just wanted to thank JIM BOB from JIM BOB'S CUE REPAIR for the help on getting my points on my JOHN DAVIS FULL SPLICE blank to work.
THANK YOU
BILLL67
Click to expand...

I purchased a Hightower inlay machine from Jim about 2 years ago. He was a very good person to do buisness with and has always helped me when I needed it.
 
This is probably a kinda dumb question, but I'm going to ask it anyway ;)

doesn't the taper shaper only have a dead center and a spur driver?
What could you shim on it?
 
cuejo said:
This is probably a kinda dumb question, but I'm going to ask it anyway ;)

doesn't the taper shaper only have a dead center and a spur driver?
What could you shim on it?
Click to expand...

You shim it on a metal lathe and redo the center drill, then put it back on the taper shaper.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
cuejo said:
This is probably a kinda dumb question, but I'm going to ask it anyway ;)

doesn't the taper shaper only have a dead center and a spur driver?
What could you shim on it?
Click to expand...

I'm not familiar with the taper shaper layout, but on a normal lathe / machine, You cut a very narrow piece of very thin paper, and insert it into the center hole on the high side of the points, on the tailstock side, if you have the butt to your left and joint end to your right. That puts the high point closer to the cutter compared to the other points once you engage the tailstock live center. After the points are even, after a few shimmings, then you should chuck it up next to the joint end, and re-face and re-center drill the joint end. Hope this helps to explain it.
Dave
 
Last edited:
Re-aligning points

It was actually not that bad after shimming the blank at it's highest point,with cigarette paper.It took about four passes and evened them out just like CHRIS HIGHTOWER states in his book on page 115.but I would really like to thank JIM BOB for his time and help getting me through this.
THANK YOU ALL.
BILLL67
 
If the points start out even, I always sand the blank smooth, at the end of the points. Then I use a dial indicator, at the end of the points. I then shim at the small end, til the indicator is running true. I like to turn the lathe on & hold a pencil to the wood at the whole point area. Take small cuts & because of the penciled area, you immediately see if you are cutting unevenly. SMALL CUTS...JER
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
If the points start out even, I always sand the blank smooth, at the end of the points. Then I use a dial indicator, at the end of the points. I then shim at the small end, til the indicator is running true. I like to turn the lathe on & hold a pencil to the wood at the whole point area. Take small cuts & because of the penciled area, you immediately see if you are cutting unevenly. SMALL CUTS...JER
Click to expand...

This is a fantastic suggestion. I can't wait to try this. Thanks, and rep for you, sir.
Josh
 
I use a small strip of masking tape on the inside center of the cue. I didn't like using papers for they would move.

Honestly you should learn these things before messing with expensive material like a davis blank all blanks will need shimmed and worked on to get strait.
 
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