Points vs No Points

Full slice cues with both halves being the same wood seem to stiffen the butt up some over a one piece wood butt. The Vee groove forearm points or deep inlaid floating points with woods like ebony into maple made a very slight difference over just plain maple forearms. I could feel and hear the difference when I was in my 30s. But now that I am almost 60 I doubt I could.
 
fastone371 said:
My guess is that the butts are made of multiple pieces woods glued and mechanically fastened together to prevent warping and also for ornamental purposes. Does anyone know if snooker cues are spliced, they are 1 piece cues for the most part I think?
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garczar said:
They are spliced. The hi-end ones are not only spliced but they are PLANED by hand to get them round. Some players use 1pc and others a 3/4 jointed version.
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Interesting video, I cant believe they use a hand plane to make them round.
 
bbb said:
what does it mean??
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No points? It means it has no points.

A Merry Widow traditionally is a butt made with a single piece of wood. For today’s 3-piece butt construction (forearm/handle/butt sleeve), a Merry Widow Style would have forearm wood the same as the butt sleeve. In that way, it could look as if the butt was one piece of wood even if it isn’t.
 
From a structure standpoint points build a solider cue. The better questions might be cored or not cored. And who plays strong enough to feel the collapse.
 
I don't think points would really be a major difference in a stick's performance.
But, I do think there's a mental difference.
The same way people say to "dress to impress" or "dress for success". When you're stroking a pretty stick, looking good and feeling good can add confidence to your game. Confidence can lead to better play. Just sayin'.
 
points were initially used to strengthen the construction
of the cue to keep it from warping,to keep it straight
something akin to laminated wood

there are people who can discern diferent feels in different
cues or different woods

i have always suspected that maple is the best wood for pool cues,
mainly because so many great players use maple merry widow cues
and every cue i really like had maple shafts

i know many great cue makers who use purple heart to core their cues,but
i think it is because of the weight

i would suggest that you try a few and see if you prefer points or merry widows.
i doubt that the opinions of az people will be as much help as just test hitting a few
 
My instincts tell me that cues without inlays would have a better hit but I'm sure I would never be able to tell the difference if I were right. That being said my cue doesn't have any and it's the best hitting cue I have ever tried so it's easy to come to the conclusion that every "evidence" I would find would only cement my baseless opinion.
 
Jimbojim said:
My instincts tell me that cues without inlays would have a better hit but I'm sure I would never be able to tell the difference if I were right. That being said my cue doesn't have any and it's the best hitting cue I have ever tried so it's easy to come to the conclusion that every "evidence" I would find would only cement my baseless opinion.
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What are you calling inlays? Are you talking about milled pocket points or inlays like dots, diamonds, etc? I've owned cues made both ways by major builders and couldn't tell difference in hit. I think pointed cues that use full-splice blanks have a crisper hit than short/half splice cues.
 
I can say, without a doubt, my 8pt retired Predator full splice hits like crap with a Revo. Stiff is too gentle a word. Put a 314-2 on it and it's a dream.
 
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