Points with veneers questions and opinions

Kevin Lindstrom

Kevin Lindstrom

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Silver Member
I have a few of questions in regards to points and the surrounding veneers.

1. What is the "typical" width or thickness of the veneers? Seems alot of the newer cues are using thinner veneers, is this the fad?

2. Who does the nicest, cleanest veneer work and is still affordable?

3. How many different methods are there to creating veneers and what are the methods called?
 
Kevin Lindstrom said:
I have a few of questions in regards to points and the surrounding veneers.

...

3. How many different methods are there to creating veneers and what are the methods called?
Click to expand...

Here is a diagram, of a few different ways, I have seen veneers done.
I don't know specific names, but left to right, I call them,
Butted together.
Mitered.
Butted and staggered.
One side only.

Tracy
 

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Kevin Lindstrom said:
I have a few of questions in regards to points and the surrounding veneers.

1. What is the "typical" width or thickness of the veneers? Seems alot of the newer cues are using thinner veneers, is this the fad?

2. Who does the nicest, cleanest veneer work and is still affordable?

3. How many different methods are there to creating veneers and what are the methods called?
Click to expand...

1 - I am not sure what the typical width is, I have seen some cues with a mix of both thick and thin veneers. If you wanted something wider than the norm, it would need to be discussed with the cuemaker building your cue.

2 - I have seen some really nice veneer-work out there:Searing, Tascarella, Szamboti, Mottey/White, M Cocharan (sp?) to name a few. But they are on the upper end of the price range. It's no big secret that I am a big Skip Weston fan. I think he does the sharpest points and 'veneers' in the business, and many would agree. His basic 4 point cue starts @ 850.00, which is still pretty reasonable compared to Scruggs' basic 4 pointer @ 1900.00. Technically, what Skip is doing are not really 'veneers' at all, but I don't want to disclose any trade secrets here. :) Additionally, he uses ONLY natural hardwoods for his 'veneers', no dyed woods in his cues. I urge you to check out his website and check out his 'Construction' link, and you'll have a better understanding of what I am trying to convey. www.skipwestoncues.net

3 - I do not wish to mis-inform here, as I do not know the technical terminology for various types of point/veneer work, so I will defer to those who are more 'on the know' for a more correct answer to your last question.

Lisa
 
Tap tap tap to that. Some people do recuts like Bender and Pete Ohman who have points recut into other points not actual veneer sheets. Some are mitred like RSB stated. The majority of cuemakers use the sheet and cut them down when turning the down the points. Check out www.dzcues.com he gives you an idea how veneer work is down and his cues are pretty decent in price
 
Veneers

One piece veneers made from maple, ebony, cocobolo, purple hearrt and other woods.
 
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if you want CLEAN veneers, get the thicker variety. the thinner veneers run together and become indistinguishable.
 
Sweet Marissa said:
Answer to your second question:

The veneers on my Jacoby look great, and yes they are pretty thin. I would definitely recommend him to anyone looking to have a cue made.

www.jacobycues.com
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Off topic... but this girl has got nice feet. :D




Check out the veneers on those pumps she is wearing in her avatar!



avatar3528_11.jpg



nbc :rolleyes: :p
 
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lol, NBC you'll never change.... Still collecting cues?





nbc said:
Off topic... but this girl has got nice feet. :D




Check out the veneers on those pumps she is wearing in her avatar!



avatar3528_11.jpg



nbc :rolleyes: :p
Click to expand...
 
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Kevin Lindstrom said:
I have a few of questions in regards to points and the surrounding veneers.

1. What is the "typical" width or thickness of the veneers? Seems alot of the newer cues are using thinner veneers, is this the fad?

2. Who does the nicest, cleanest veneer work and is still affordable?

3. How many different methods are there to creating veneers and what are the methods called?
Click to expand...

http://azbilliards.com/vbulletin/upload/showthread.php?t=20214&page=1&pp=15
Scroll down to the Skip, and notice two things: how clean the "veneers" come together to form a point, and how the veneers in each point line up with its brethren in the adjacent point. You can literally take a ruler to them, and mind you that's a 5-veneered cue.

Like Lisa said, those are not traditional softwood veneers; Skip has his own method of using one-piece hardwoods veneers. They are also not recut points.

His basic cue starts at $850: that's 4 points, up to 4 veneers with simple joint rings. If you care about point/veneer work, Skip is at the very top, and he IS the top if you're talking bang for the buck.

-Roger
 
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2wld4u said:
lol, NBC you'll never change.... Still collecting cues?
Click to expand...


haha... yep... have started the collecting binge again. Now working on butterfly spliced cues... ;)


nbc
 
veneers

iconcue said:
the older style are .035 inches and the new thinner are about .022.
but almost any thickness is possible with milled veneers.
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I believe Gus and Barry use the thicker veneers, is thereany other cuemakers that use the thicker veneers as their standard thickness?
 
I've seen pretty much every veneer pattern made. I don't think the width of the veneers is indicative of anything besides aesthetics. I think there are only two ways to veneer a point. One is to inlay the points into the already formed point (recut?) and the other is to incorporate the veneers into the actual structure of the points and forearm (full splice?). I know there have been endless discussions over the years regarding advantages/disadvantages of these approaches. I don't make cues so I don't have an informed opinion about that. I can tell you that I've seen the way Tony at Black Boar makes his veneered points and IMHO if anybody does this better I'd like to see it.
 
pawnmon said:
I've seen pretty much every veneer pattern made. I don't think the width of the veneers is indicative of anything besides aesthetics. I think there are only two ways to veneer a point. One is to inlay the points into the already formed point (recut?) and the other is to incorporate the veneers into the actual structure of the points and forearm (full splice?). I know there have been endless discussions over the years regarding advantages/disadvantages of these approaches. I don't make cues so I don't have an informed opinion about that. I can tell you that I've seen the way Tony at Black Boar makes his veneered points and IMHO if anybody does this better I'd like to see it.
Click to expand...

I agree that the assembly technique is somewhat limited, but if you've been around some cuemakers, you can appreciate how the actual steps to prep the veneers and point wood (method, angle, glueing, etc.) are about as limitless as you can imagine.

We've heard of and seen multiple ways that cuemakers are doing this, and the stark differences in how they cut/glue the veneers and assemble the prongs will absolutely AMAZE you.
 
Sweet Marissa said:
Answer to your second question:

The veneers on my Jacoby look great, and yes they are pretty thin. I would definitely recommend him to anyone looking to have a cue made.

www.jacobycues.com
Click to expand...


Shhhh...wait until they get my cue done first. :D :D
 
cueaddicts said:
I agree that the assembly technique is somewhat limited, but if you've been around some cuemakers, you can appreciate how the actual steps to prep the veneers and point wood (method, angle, glueing, etc.) are about as limitless as you can imagine.

We've heard of and seen multiple ways that cuemakers are doing this, and the stark differences in how they cut/glue the veneers and assemble the prongs will absolutely AMAZE you.
Click to expand...

Like I said, I don't make cues. But as you illustrate the methods are indeed almost limitless. I think making cues (and doing veneers) is something that will be and has been skillfully by countless people using many different approaches and materials. This is what lends the great mystery to cuemaking and makes any claims to being the absolute best suspect at least. I've been amazed by cuemakers for many years as it is. Maybe enough to try it myself someday.

Regards, Pawnmon
 
buddha162 said:
http://azbilliards.com/vbulletin/upload/showthread.php?t=20214&page=1&pp=15
Scroll down to the Skip, and notice two things: how clean the "veneers" come together to form a point, and how the veneers in each point line up with its brethren in the adjacent point. You can literally take a ruler to them, and mind you that's a 5-veneered cue.

Like Lisa said, those are not traditional softwood veneers; Skip has his own method of using one-piece hardwoods veneers. They are also not recut points.

His basic cue starts at $850: that's 4 points, up to 4 veneers with simple joint rings. If you care about point/veneer work, Skip is at the very top, and he IS the top if you're talking bang for the buck.

-Roger
Click to expand...

That 5 veneer cue is really something else! Really just beautiful. I still get amazed with every cue he does; they're just so crisp and clean. That's probably why I have just sent my deposit to him for my next cue! I can hardly wait to see how it turns out! :D

Lisa
 
ridewiththewind said:
That 5 veneer cue is really something else! Really just beautiful. I still get amazed with every cue he does; they're just so crisp and clean. That's probably why I have just sent my deposit to him for my next cue! I can hardly wait to see how it turns out! :D

Lisa
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Yeah, I'm a proud papa...lol. I'm proud of all of my Skip cues! I now have a 58", 59" and 60" Skip with flat faced phenolic, piloted ivory and flat faced ivory respectively. :D :D I need to get a steel jointed Skip now.
 
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