Ok, I will describe my understanding of the types of points and how they are made. Please correct whatever is wrong and add to what I missed....
Also, I'm going to list the different names the same type of points go by. Please correct and add to the list.
1. Inlaid points (aka. CNC points, Pantograph points, flat bottom points, floating points).
These are points that are installed by cutting a pocket into the cue that will recieve a mating inlay. This pocket is cut parallel to the finished surface of the cue. They are approximately 1/8 inch thick. The corners will be the same radius as the radius cutter that was used, unless hand work with a knife or chisel was done to the corner to remove the radius. ***Can these points also have a rounded bottom, so they are the same thickness across their width?
2. V-bottom points (short splice, long splice, traditional points, veneered points).
These points are made by cutting a 90 degree groove along the length of the cue. The cue is held at an angle, so that the end mill cuts nothing on one end, and full depth on the other. Full depth is approximately 1/2 inch. Then, a square block and/or veneers are glued into this grove. This leads to a sharp point on the front of the point. The rear of the points must be cut off, and that is why this style point always ends with a ring or the wrap of the cue. ***Is the only difference between long and short splice points the angle that the cue was held at while cutting, or are they completely different methods?
3. Full splice
House cues are made with this type. I frankly don't know how this is done, because I don't know how to get a sharp end on each end of the points. I think they are cut with a saw, but how do they handle the kerf of the blade? Most house cues do not have sharp points on the rear end of the cue, but I have seen a few with sharp points on both ends.
4. Butterfly points
These are made by cutting a flat on the surface of the cue. A flat piece of wood is glued on top of this flat. When the cue is turned to its taper, the joint of the two pieces will form a large rounded edge.
Thanks for the responses,
Nick
Also, I'm going to list the different names the same type of points go by. Please correct and add to the list.
1. Inlaid points (aka. CNC points, Pantograph points, flat bottom points, floating points).
These are points that are installed by cutting a pocket into the cue that will recieve a mating inlay. This pocket is cut parallel to the finished surface of the cue. They are approximately 1/8 inch thick. The corners will be the same radius as the radius cutter that was used, unless hand work with a knife or chisel was done to the corner to remove the radius. ***Can these points also have a rounded bottom, so they are the same thickness across their width?
2. V-bottom points (short splice, long splice, traditional points, veneered points).
These points are made by cutting a 90 degree groove along the length of the cue. The cue is held at an angle, so that the end mill cuts nothing on one end, and full depth on the other. Full depth is approximately 1/2 inch. Then, a square block and/or veneers are glued into this grove. This leads to a sharp point on the front of the point. The rear of the points must be cut off, and that is why this style point always ends with a ring or the wrap of the cue. ***Is the only difference between long and short splice points the angle that the cue was held at while cutting, or are they completely different methods?
3. Full splice
House cues are made with this type. I frankly don't know how this is done, because I don't know how to get a sharp end on each end of the points. I think they are cut with a saw, but how do they handle the kerf of the blade? Most house cues do not have sharp points on the rear end of the cue, but I have seen a few with sharp points on both ends.
4. Butterfly points
These are made by cutting a flat on the surface of the cue. A flat piece of wood is glued on top of this flat. When the cue is turned to its taper, the joint of the two pieces will form a large rounded edge.
Thanks for the responses,
Nick