Points ?

Cue Crazy

Cue Crazy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I been thinking about something that I've heard mentioned in the past, and from some of My personal experiences, has me asking Myself this question-

The term drawing in the points or what have you, to even them up. Does this always refer to actually evening them up with a marker or such, or is it possible that sometimes It could refer to a method entirely different? This is one of those that I'm kind of hesitent to ask here, but I'm not sure who all would understand to ask the question to in private, and It's been bugging the heck out of me, so I'm just wondering if anyone here can catch My drift and knows what I thinking LOL, I know that's up for discussion, cause who knows what i'm thinking half the time:rolleyes: ;) :p, but surely someone should be able to figure It out. Atleast some of the old schoolers possibly. No I don't use markers, already found out that is not for me, because regardless of any personal feelings, I'm no good at it anyway:D It's another method that I learned on My own, but the points have to be really close to begin with for It to work well. Just wondering if anyone else knows of It, has used It before, and their thoughts on It.


Thanks:) , Greg
 
you need to catch it earliy if you can and redo your center. If you catch it late you can and there off a few thousands you can scrape some wood away with a razor blade I have seen it done many atimes but sometimes i feel you can see it through the finish the flat spots.

I sent a cue to mcdermott the but had a role in it I told them and the would fix it and refinish with a new wrap $125.00. what i got was a butt that was recut on a lathe my points are now honestly1\2" off and the clear coated one coat thin drew in with indian ink my last venner to make the point even again then clear coated again. the cue was pretty butt it was olso a d 19 worth $800 now its probably $400 or what i can get out of it.

Just my thoughts on it.

Best of luck
Craig
 
n10spool said:
you need to catch it earliy if you can and redo your center. If you catch it late you can and there off a few thousands you can scrape some wood away with a razor blade I have seen it done many atimes but sometimes i feel you can see it through the finish the flat spots.

I sent a cue to mcdermott the but had a role in it I told them and the would fix it and refinish with a new wrap $125.00. what i got was a butt that was recut on a lathe my points are now honestly1\2" off and the clear coated one coat thin drew in with indian ink my last venner to make the point even again then clear coated again. the cue was pretty butt it was olso a d 19 worth $800 now its probably $400 or what i can get out of it.

Just my thoughts on it.

Best of luck
Craig
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You got the basic idea in there, but is the same term also used for that method? BTW, the key is the points still need to centered be close to begin with. It's no miracle cure or anything, I'm talking like within 1/4 maximum or better, and just fine tuning only, or like you say, you can easily flat spot them, also there is a method to keep the flat spotting to a minimum, and really no way of telling when It's done right. It seems to be somewhat of an aquired skill as well, and I would'nt recomend someone trying It, due to the trial and error of learning, and how easily one could go too far with It, but You can also sharpen the points up alittle bit as long as they are not blown out from the router too badly or anything like that.



That sucks about your cue. sorry to hear that.

I remember one time many years ago we had a meucci original, with some unusual veneer colors in It, Well, the finish was all but gone, and besides some mold had got into the veneers, the cue was still in decent shape, instead of going another way not knowing better at the time, I tried cleaning the surface up with a blade, and before too long I realized that the mold went all the way down into the veneers not just the surface, and I had flat spotted the crap out of the thing:eek: I refinished the cue anyway, and you could easily see it under the finish. I was so discusted by It, that the thought of that time still keeps me paying attention, so that may be part of why I'm not having that issue now with the point method. Just glad I never did that to someone else's cue. I won't even try it unless i know i can pull It off successfully, I'll just leave the points where they are if I don't have the room to get them close enough in the first place. It's just more of a perfection thing with me If the opertunity is right for It, cause I won't ink them in. Just not for me.:)

Thanks, Greg
 
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drawing in points

I think you will find that even a permanent marker is far from permanent. The sharpy ink fades very fast in sun. But if you use India Ink or some carbon pigment ink you may get long life, and deep blacks. You can also use it to tweak an inlay, though best to do it right and not need corrections. But the ability to make minor adjustments is a good case for using black veneers on the outside!
 
It is not uncommon to use offset centers. Dial indicators with a magnetic base is also a great tool to have in the shop.

To the gentleman with the McDermott, Not everyone including some of the makers can repair butts properly, Some will quiver at this statement but it's the truth.
 
Cue Crazy said:
I been thinking about something that I've heard mentioned in the past, and from some of My personal experiences, has me asking Myself this question-

The term drawing in the points or what have you, to even them up. Does this always refer to actually evening them up with a marker or such, or is it possible that sometimes It could refer to a method entirely different? This is one of those that I'm kind of hesitent to ask here, but I'm not sure who all would understand to ask the question to in private, and It's been bugging the heck out of me, so I'm just wondering if anyone here can catch My drift and knows what I thinking LOL, I know that's up for discussion, cause who knows what i'm thinking half the time:rolleyes: ;) :p, but surely someone should be able to figure It out. Atleast some of the old schoolers possibly. No I don't use markers, already found out that is not for me, because regardless of any personal feelings, I'm no good at it anyway:D It's another method that I learned on My own, but the points have to be really close to begin with for It to work well. Just wondering if anyone else knows of It, has used It before, and their thoughts on It.


Thanks:) , Greg
Click to expand...

To the orig Question. I have never heard a cuemaker use the term "drawing...' with any meaning other than in the graphical sense.

Tho the 'draw and quarter' version has at times, been tempting
with some customers.

IIUC the need to 'graphically adjujst' spliced points was one
of the major motovatios for McDer to abandon them
in favor of CNCd ones

Dale
 
Thanks for sticking to the question Dale,

That's really all I was asking. The reasoning for My question is that I have heard the term used in woodworking for a simular type movement with a blade or draw knife, so this made Me wonder If it was possible that the term was ever used to explain this method, instead of the graphical term as you said, and actually inking It in.

I had mentioned 1/4 as the a maximum, but in fact that may be extreme, usually this would be within 1/8 to dead on in a perffect situation, and It's actually only a very minor ajustment. Example I turned some butts the other day, and they fell within 1/16 or better,because of an ajustment/offset of the center holes. One of them fell dead on, but original question asside, still I would admitt I could take some lessons If it's possible to pull them in dead on everytime using the offset only. These are points I have no control of from the start or there would'nt be an issue to begin with. I have a bit of conversion stuff in the works by request, and well, I don't always have a perfect canvas to start with, so I do the best I can. Ofcoarse I'm always looking for a better way, and actually I think Dick mentioned one once before that drew My interest, but I have'nt tried It yet. If I could off set between centers, It may produce even better results. My issue is how to drill between centers, the only other way I can see is offsetting without a pointed center, turning the points even using a center that's just butted up, so I can indicate it in, turning them even, then redrilling the centers off of the new OD. Altough it was not My original question, this is an area I could use some suggestions in, as I'm somewhat familiar with the the method of using a indicator and the basics of that. The drawing of the blade I mention would only be to perfect the eveness of points. If there's a better way then I'm all ears.:)

TY
Greg



pdcue said:
To the orig Question. I have never heard a cuemaker use the term "drawing...' with any meaning other than in the graphical sense.

Tho the 'draw and quarter' version has at times, been tempting
with some customers.

IIUC the need to 'graphically adjujst' spliced points was one
of the major motovatios for McDer to abandon them
in favor of CNCd ones

Dale
Click to expand...
 
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I would think if you are just trying to even the points up, that using a little sandpaper would be better than using a blade. As long as you were careful, you would only take off the amount you need, and you could also avoid the flat spots. Kind of like taking a tenon down a little at a time for a snug mortise joint. Of course you would have to be pretty close, I don't think it would be that great of an idea for something off by a 1/4".
 
shakes said:
I would think if you are just trying to even the points up, that using a little sandpaper would be better than using a blade. As long as you were careful, you would only take off the amount you need, and you could also avoid the flat spots. Kind of like taking a tenon down a little at a time for a snug mortise joint. Of course you would have to be pretty close, I don't think it would be that great of an idea for something off by a 1/4".
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:confused: Once again there is no flat spotting the way I do It, and I do only take off what I need. As I mentioned before there is a method to It. Yeah If you sit there in the same spot and have no experience with It, then that's probably what's going to happen, and why I don't recomend It. There is an art to everything, and this is no different. It does take a small bit of aquired skill, and control. I do not stay in the same place, gouge, dig in deep, or anything like that, in fact there is no sanding needed afterwards It's so smooth. I'm not talking about digging the blade into the piece. I can turn the lathe on feel the area with My fingers while spinning and tell By feel what's going on, so I don't over do It. You would have to see It done to grasp the concept I suppose. Also there is no smudging
or bleeding like there could be with sandpaper in some situations. It's so clean you can seal right over It, and not see a thing through the finish, cause there's really nothing to see. As for the 1/4" read My last post where I corrected that statement. 1/4 is sort of pushing it, but 1/16-1/8 is like the thickness of small endmills, It is a very minute amount when the tips are thin, and does'nt take much to accomplish the goal. Different strokes, I would recomend people use what works for them, and I'll do what works for me, cause It's definatly not for everyone.:) I'm not trying to impose any method on anyone, or get anyone's approval, I just asked a simple question about a definition of words when I asked for thoughts, Perhaps I should have been more clear LOL.:) Please don't take My words as being offensive, quite the opposite, I just have work to do, and did'nt want to get into this debate, that's why I was hesitent to ask in the first place. That and I did'nt know if it someone's secret method or not, because It was self taught on My part. Peace:)
 
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