Polishing Aluminum for my current Brunswick Anniversary restoration.

trentfromtoledo

trentfromtoledo

8onthebreaktoledo
Silver Member
I am just done with all the polished aluminum for my current Brunswick Anniversary restoration. Here is a sample:
00t0t_93pctQRtSfW_600x450.jpg


00D0D_bzvGM2GOEjN_600x450.jpg


Here is my process:

All parts are sand blasted with a light medium.
Start with 80 grit on the orbital, dry and then wet.
then 100, grit on the orbital, dry and then wet.
then 150, grit on the orbital, dry and then wet.
then 220, grit on the orbital dry and then wet.

then 400, wet by hand
then 600, wet by hand
then 800, wet by hand
then 1000, wet by hand
then 1500, wet by hand

Then using the blue rouge on my polishing wheel and I get what is pictured. The counter was only polished because it was in very nice condition.

I am interested in some other people's methods as I want to know if there is anything I can do to help my process. I look forward to learning some new stuff. Thanks for looking and for any info provided in this thread.

Trent from Toledo
 
Last edited:
Looking Good

Great Job,, They have a gleaming mirror finish. .

Also ,Thanks for sharing the materials used and the "How To'' step by step process it takes to get the results you achieved. .

I just picked up a 9' GC-3 "AK" Model over the weekend.
It's in excellent condition as far as legs,rails,aprons,and slate go.
Got it for a steal price of $700.

All is in perfect working order ,and is ready to go in regards to playability. Though the counters, & pocket castings could use some help , so would that process work on antique bronze?
 
Last edited:
pretty sure those castings are not aluminum.

I am not 100% sure, but, pretty sure those castings are not aluminum. I have all my Gold Crown metal powder coated: Corner & side castings, rail trim pieces, feet, ball box grill, ball return trim, bridge holders, counters and name plate. I prefer the vein- type of powder because it has a texture to it and helps cover up imperfections in the metal. Makes everything real tight looking!Make sure your powder coating specialist sand blasts all parts first!

Trent
 
I polished the feet on my GCII and they turned out pretty nice. I didn't go thru all the steps that Trent did though, so they could look better. They might cast from different material than the corner castings though.
 
Great end result!!

How much maintenance/upkeep is needed when you polish these up like this? My local table guy suggested I clear coat over the end result, or else I'd have to keep polishing them up from time to time.
 
Polish longevity.

I was recommended Simichrome Polish for protecting the shine. I was told it will last as long as you take care of it by a company in Detroit I paid to polish all the metal for my first Anniversary restoration. I would polish the area's that people's hands touch pretty much every time I played on it. When you play on it: make sure your hands are clean!!! It is work to own something with that much polished metal. Ask anyone who owns a chromed out Harley or HotRod. There is some technique to all of the process as you will find your own :) I also did some research on clear coating: I would not ever do that after talking to different paint & powder coating specialists. Hope that answers your question.

Trent

p.s. I was told the clearcoat would eventually turn yellow!
 
You shouldn't have a problem with the yellowing of clearcoat as long as you have it a room isn't subjected to extreme temperatures such as inside of your home. I did some on a friends' GC 7 years ago and it looks like it was done yesterday.
Again, you have to take into account what brand you use if you decide to do it. Some of them aren't that great. I've just checked around recently since I wanted to do some parts for my bike and I still haven't decided on what I will use now. Wish Ya luck and what you did looks amazing.
 
Powder Clear.

Powder Clear Coating is the only thing I think "might" work. Have to try it on an extra part and leave it partially exposed to the sun.

Trent
 
See, I've been in the body shop business for over 15 years, and I just can't wrap my head around clear coating polished metal in the first place? How can it stick to such a smooth surface? Unless you polish it up, then lightly scuff it so the clear can stick to something...

The wheels on my wife's Trailblazer are polished aluminum with clear over top though, so there's definitely a way. lol

What finish/color powdercoat have you (guys) seen on rail ends like these? I love the polished look, but I'm kind of turned off on the polished maintenance! Plus, I believe only the tops of my rail ends can be polished, as I've been told the bottoms are plain metal, so that might look weird to have 2 different types of finishes...


 
those castings are the exact same as Anniversary castings.

Yup, those castings are the exact same as Anniversary castings and will polish up the same. I have seen people get those Sport King end castings chromed and with the corners polished: BAM< A MATCHIN SET! :)
I am not ever going with the clear coat, I explain to my clients about the polished aluminum and its care. Just takes maintenance! Good luck!

Trent from Toledo

picture.php


Gold vein Powder Coating^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
trentfromtoledo said:
I am not ever going with the clear coat, I explain to my clients about the polished aluminum and its care. Just takes maintenance! Good luck!
Click to expand...

Gorgeous work Trent and I followed the same protocol, more or less, to polish up the aluminum on an old Bonzini foosball table. I agree with you about clearcoat. As Josue said, I doubt it would stick for very long on such a highly polished surface. Once you've done the initial polish, maintenance polishing is pretty easy.

Thanks for posting your work. It's great to see the photos and to learn about your techniques.
 
^This!

What kind of buffer do you have/use? Is it the wheel kind that bolts to a bench grinder? I have a high speed buffer that I use to buff cars with, but I feel a bench grinder buffing setup would probably be better/easier.
 
Here is mine when I got it last year :)

00i0i_8jiehgeCYjE_600x450.jpg


I spent about $260 on everything, sandpaper & blue rouge is not shown, but, that is all included in the cost. I have also recently bought a handheld 7inch polisher and it does the final shine very well. I wait to do the very last polish on the jobsite and then we hit it with the Simichrome to protect. I also suggest the "tub" of Simichrome to the little tubes. Its about $20-25 on Ebay.

Trent from Toledo

P.s. Obvious: the better/ higher horse equipment produces a more time efficient outcome. Can't really be in a hurry on this stuff, takes many hours and I am on job 3 with my equipment. I am happy with my output :)
 
Last edited:
Nice!

We have a smaller craftsman bench grinder in my dad's barn, but I'm not sure if they make buffing wheels small enough for it. I'll have to do some research.

Thanks for the info! Can't wait to get mine looking like this!
 
smaller wheels like that.

Smaller wheels like that are kinda hard, the extended wheels give you space between you and the motor, everytime you bump the piece you are working on into anything metal it leaves a small "nick" you will have to remove! Also: scratches that are deep are TOUGH to get out! Have I mentioned AIR BUBBLES IN THE METAL? Gotta get those sanded down right or you will see them! Lots of little stuff I ran into! SWIRLS IN THE METAL FROM SANDIN!! Lots of fun lessons and figuring them out!

Trent

P.s. I just remembered there is a lower casting that I am not happy with and I am going to redo! DOH!
 
Last edited:
Oh yea! Sounds like everything I dealt with when sanding and buffing paint jobs on cars.

I can't justify buying a bigger grinder setup just to do this one job though, so maybe I'll look into powdercoating eventually. (a silver vein would look pretty good I think) We've got bigger fish to fry right now, than me spending a bunch of money restoring this pool table. lol
 
Dude, you're gonna go broke in labor following this process....

All parts are sand blasted with a light medium.
Start with 80 grit on the orbital, dry and then wet.
then 100, grit on the orbital, dry and then wet.
then 150, grit on the orbital, dry and then wet.
then 220, grit on the orbital dry and then wet.

then 400, wet by hand
then 600, wet by hand
then 800, wet by hand
then 1000, wet by hand
then 1500, wet by hand

You need to find a polishing forum and ask some questions....

I have at least a 1000 hours in polishing from the time I was about 14 till I went off to college (side job out of my house to earn money for my cars). I started in the manner you list, but very quickly found a plating shop to hang around and ask questions (This was 1980-1985 so no internet to learn). A pro shop does VERY LITTLE hand sanding on anything - in most cases NONE. That is why you have the compounds and wheels. Look into the 3m Roloc wheels in scotchbrite, and rubber bristle styles. All scratches from them are taken out with first compounds, subsequent scratches are taken out by the next compound. A pro could have a corner casting done from beginning to end in an hour or less. Let machines do the work - you have to be a sadist to continue with your method :)
 
Thanks for the advice! I appreciate your concern, but:

I do my work myself. I have investigated many methods and watched youtube videos! You are speaking of people who do this for a living an have THOUSANDS invested in tools. I have very little into my equipment. I only polish about 2-3 jobs a year, so I am totally fine with my method and: I did it myself. I prefer to do as much work on my restorations as possible. I LOVE WHAT I DO for a living. I love that I can polish my own stuff and do not have to rely on someone else. It is called being self sufficient. Here is a story of how I got to polishing my own: I hired a company north of Detroit to do my first Anniversary pockets and lower castings. They did a beautiful job, I was so happy with their work I sent him an email, an actual snail mail letter thanking him for the great work and also pictures of the table. When I called him the second time to do more work: HE WANTED DOUBLE THE $$$ AND EVEN WORSE TWICE AS LONG TIME WISE!!!!!! Instead of being a jerk , he should have just said he did not want the work. So I did some internet research and bought my equipment. As I mentioned, this is my 3rd table with this gear and has saved me lots of $$$$ and waiting on someone else to get them done. So it is really easy to say this is easier than that, but, at the end of the day I keep as much of my profits in my pocket from my restorations as possible. Not to mention it makes it much easier to sell a job when I do not have to wait 4-6 weeks to get my polished parts back. So before you get all quick to give someone advice, make sure you know everything in play before you decide to tell someone else what they are or are not doing with their business. I also do not think you realize the condition of the castings in the very first place: deeeeep gouges are not easy to get out, nor are the tiny air pockets in the metal. Light Surface scratches I completely agree with you. I will say this also: There is no "hurry" in what I do. I take my time and I research a lot on my processes. I feel a great sense of pride and accomplishment when I finish a table. I and also not in a "hurry" on my installs because I take pride in my installations as well. All of the people who have worked for me had this "why don't you do it this way" attitude and I immediately broke them of that concept by telling them this: I researched this, this works, I like it this way and I am the one paying you! Now I also tell them: Learn it my way first and if you still think your way is better an you can prove it, we will adapt that method into what ever process we are into. Thanks

Trent from Toledo

P.s. "Look into the 3m Roloc wheels in scotchbrite, and rubber bristle styles." <------- I do appreciate this information and I thank you for it. Not trying to come across the wrong way and I apologize If I did! :)

Reaboy said:
Dude, you're gonna go broke in labor following this process....

All parts are sand blasted with a light medium.
Start with 80 grit on the orbital, dry and then wet.
then 100, grit on the orbital, dry and then wet.
then 150, grit on the orbital, dry and then wet.
then 220, grit on the orbital dry and then wet.

then 400, wet by hand
then 600, wet by hand
then 800, wet by hand
then 1000, wet by hand
then 1500, wet by hand

You need to find a polishing forum and ask some questions....

I have at least a 1000 hours in polishing from the time I was about 14 till I went off to college (side job out of my house to earn money for my cars). I started in the manner you list, but very quickly found a plating shop to hang around and ask questions (This was 1980-1985 so no internet to learn). A pro shop does VERY LITTLE hand sanding on anything - in most cases NONE. That is why you have the compounds and wheels. Look into the 3m Roloc wheels in scotchbrite, and rubber bristle styles. All scratches from them are taken out with first compounds, subsequent scratches are taken out by the next compound. A pro could have a corner casting done from beginning to end in an hour or less. Let machines do the work - you have to be a sadist to continue with your method :)
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Why do you ask for advice to begin with?

"I am interested in some other people's methods as I want to know if there is anything I can do to help my process. I look forward to learning some new stuff. Thanks for looking and for any info provided in this thread."

but....

....so I am totally fine with my method and: I did it myself. I prefer to do as much work on my restorations as possible. I LOVE WHAT I DO for a living. I love that I can polish my own stuff and do not have to rely on someone else. It is called being self sufficient.

and yet....

So before you get all quick to give someone advice, make sure you know everything in play before you decide to tell someone else what they are or are not doing with their business.

and my favorite....

All of the people who have worked for me had this "why don't you do it this way" attitude and I immediately broke them of that concept by telling them this: I researched this, this works, I like it this way and I am the one paying you! Now I also tell them: Learn it my way first and if you still think your way is better an you can prove it, we will adapt that method into what ever process we are into. Thanks

and lastly....
I also do not think you realize the condition of the castings in the very first place: deeeeep gouges are not easy to get out.

Really Sherlock? I guess I never encountered any surfaces that I did for customers that had incurred anything more than scratches from continual buffing and waxing. BTW, that was SARCASM!

You, my friend, are a tool!

I can't stress the next statement enough - If you don't want advice, DON'T ASK FOR IT!

And I am not sorry for being a dick in this post. Many have provided you with advice that you ask for, but someone needs to clue you in to pull on your big girl panties, and take the advice you were given, however it is given, and LISTEN - or don't ask for it! You would make a much better lurker....
 
Last edited:
You offered one little piece of advice.

I gave you credit for your 2 cents of information. I could care less what you have to say past that! :) You offered ZERO detailed information and a bunch of nothing:)

Reaboy said:
Why do you ask for advice to begin with?

"I am interested in some other people's methods as I want to know if there is anything I can do to help my process. I look forward to learning some new stuff. Thanks for looking and for any info provided in this thread."

but....

....so I am totally fine with my method and: I did it myself. I prefer to do as much work on my restorations as possible. I LOVE WHAT I DO for a living. I love that I can polish my own stuff and do not have to rely on someone else. It is called being self sufficient.

and yet....

So before you get all quick to give someone advice, make sure you know everything in play before you decide to tell someone else what they are or are not doing with their business.

and my favorite....

All of the people who have worked for me had this "why don't you do it this way" attitude and I immediately broke them of that concept by telling them this: I researched this, this works, I like it this way and I am the one paying you! Now I also tell them: Learn it my way first and if you still think your way is better an you can prove it, we will adapt that method into what ever process we are into. Thanks

and lastly....
I also do not think you realize the condition of the castings in the very first place: deeeeep gouges are not easy to get out.

Really Sherlock? I guess I never encountered any surfaces that I did for customers that had incurred anything more than scratches from continual buffing and waxing. BTW, that was SARCASM!

You, my friend, are a tool!

I can't stress the next statement enough - If you don't want advice, DON'T ASK FOR IT!

And I am not sorry for being a dick in this post. Many have provided you with advice that you ask for, but someone needs to clue you in to pull on your big girl panties, and take the advice you were given, however it is given, and LISTEN - or don't ask for it! You would make a much better lurker....
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top