pool cue re tip questions with a twist

I used to use a chopping knife; long wide blade. It was shaving sharp. I just held the shaft perpendicular to a cutting board and shaved it down a little bit at a time. As long as you don't get in a hurry, you can get pretty good results. Your knife has to be insanely sharp to get the best results. If you do your final honing with a glass rod, you know what sharp means.
 
rackemky said:
http://forums.azbilliards.com/album.php?albumid=876

check my public picture folder for the other photos.

thanks to the help of you all and to some help and donations from some loyal az users i have obtained nearly a entire set of shaft drive pins ideas and knowledge. thank you

the pictures are what i have got done so far a full size total smith lathe witch is printed onto the lathe as capable of turning most metals and wood. so i dug around found a 1/2 inch chuck and secured it to the lathe shaft. i chucked in a usa made steel center punch and spun it a long punch. i was really pretty impressed it turned very tru to the eye. could not think of a good and cheap way to build a roller steady though there is 1 great plan i found using counter top formica, just didnt have the money and no scrap laying around of that size. i personally thought about it and decided to use a special extended life ( shelf bearing ) witch is widely used in factorys and farming in sever duty conveyors. seen in blue temporary mounted using vice grip welding pliers. the shelf bearing rpm is rated in the 5000 rpm range so where good. if you look at the pictures i have a nice flat steel rest area where the bearing setup mounts it looks good so far please let me know what you all think ( other than buy a unit please thats not a option)

the next problem is i need something that will grip the shaft and grip the inner bearing race so everything spins freely would a rubber collet work here? the bearing has a 1/6 of a inch gap with a shaft centered in race and the shaft pushed just past the back of bearing as shown in photos.

THIS IS A EXPERIMENTAL PROJECT FOR TIP INSTALL AND UN INSTALL ONLY! yes its 500 lbs and not portable but its sitting there and moneys non exsistant so i figured lets adapt it to make it useful even though it is worth $10. let me know your input i will be greatfull. im getting closer once i resolve this all i will need is a tina blade i really like the looks of those and there nimble no razors here i value my hands and eye sight. =)
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I have any idea for you but its not exactly on the cheap. I like to tinker and find ways to do stuff cheaply (sometimes the outcome is near brilliant and others I just destroy stuff) but there have been too many times I spent money trying and ended up spending more money (not to mention the time & aggravation) than if I would have just bought the correct tool.

Talk to Chris Hightower (Cueman). He sells a Steady Rest with a Chuck mounted on a bearing. It would solve your problems. See if he already has something that might work as-is or if he can modify his SR so instead of having the bottom keyed for a lathe bed, put a block on the bottom that you can clamp on like you did with the bearing. Then to trim just use a razor blade flat along the ferrule. To form the tip radius just get a block of metal or a solid piece of wood that comes up to the center of the tip and form it with a razor blade like the cuemakers do.

I am new to cuemaking but I've already found its easier to trim/shape the tips with a razor blade than to use my lathe with a tool bot and Tip Shaper.
 
Out here, most tips are put on by hand. They just carefully use a 1 side edge blade(not beveled on both sides) and take lots of small cuts parallel with the ferrule. Some put a little tape to not mark it. Then they just use sandpaper and carefully shape the tip .The sides are rubbed with some 400 grit paper and then burnished.
Most will want the tips epoxied on,they just don't trust the super-glue. It is considered to be cheap and an inferior job to not use epoxy.
Patience is the key.
 
stratshutr said:
Quit trying to make something so easy so hard. Most of us started with nothing also. You need to get the two mating surfaces flat and then glue,trim, and shape. It's not rocket science, keep it simple.
http://www.poolndarts.com/p-3529-Rapid-Cue-Top-Sander/
This will get you flat enough. Then all you need is a box cutter and a small flat wooden block with sand paper glued to it and you will be set to do tips. It takes a little practice but you will get good results. Good Luck
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sir i know what putting tips by hand is after 16 years this is for something to do other than sit around here. if it works it does if it dont it dont. im waiting on my tip shaver and a few odds and ends. i have tiger glue so that definetly the route i will go for now. like i said its experimental.
 
ok thanks everyone for the info i have bee in touch with chris on the sleeve for the shaft. i need to get theses pics to him and see what he thinks. so far have $7 in tiger glue thats my only investment so this is experimental for fun and lack of bordem.

thanks
 
rackemky said:
ok thanks everyone for the info i have bee in touch with chris on the sleeve for the shaft. i need to get theses pics to him and see what he thinks. so far have $7 in tiger glue thats my only investment so this is experimental for fun and lack of bordem.

thanks
Click to expand...

although i may catch slack im going to try it why not. chris was nice enough to not try to sell me a bunch of stuff i like people like that makes me want to trust them for future purchases. anyway chris said to try a chair leg rubber bumber and cut out the bottom and form fit.
 
cue

cue man lathe works good
and if you hustle some work up for it you should be able to make the lathe pay for itself fairly fast.

shaping tips with the lathes tip shaper works good on solid tips but i dont use mine on layered tips at all. good luck
mortuary mike nv
 
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