Finally gonna take the plunge and get a new table. Thinking about a 10' Diamond. I have a Bruswick Metro that I really like. What would you get and why?
Pool table advice
- Thread starter Chicken_Blood
- Start date
Personally I love 10footers.
But I also love a table with character.
So, I would go with an antique or vintage Brunswick. (Restored and/or modified to modern specs)
Like a centennial, anniversary, arcadian, kling etc.
The older wood models, like a Kling for example, are built like brick outhouses. You could literally park a car on top of one. Heaven on earth man.
But I also love a table with character.
So, I would go with an antique or vintage Brunswick. (Restored and/or modified to modern specs)
Like a centennial, anniversary, arcadian, kling etc.
The older wood models, like a Kling for example, are built like brick outhouses. You could literally park a car on top of one. Heaven on earth man.
I'd get a standard table, not some unusual size.
Probably a standard diamond. I'd be fine with a 9 foot brunswick too.
My thinking is this:
- Larger tables and smaller pockets both have one goal, to make the game harder.
They're supposed to solve the "problem" of pros running out too easily.
- I'm not a professional, the game is hard enough as it is. I cannot run 6 packs even on buckets.
- Some people think buying equipment made for professionals (big tables with small pockets)
will somehow 'force' them to improve and will make them play more like a professional.
It's simply not true. Improvement comes from the player and their commitment to practice.
Most of us are just not committed enough to reach pro speed, even if we had all the tools.
- Big table is a pain in the ass, costs more, and is probably more work to transport and assemble.
It will also take up more room in your home. And if you ever decide to sell it, it is not in demand.
Plenty of people want a 9 footer, very few want a 10 footer. No pool room would buy it.
- The table is different from what you'll play on when you meet friends at a pool hall.
Certain things change when playing on a big table. You have less congestion, more bridge use,
the breaks that work on 9 footers may hit a little high or low on 10 footers, etc.
Whereas a 9 foot diamond is not only similar to what your buddies might play on in some pool rooms,
it's exactly what many pros play on in major events.
Probably a standard diamond. I'd be fine with a 9 foot brunswick too.
My thinking is this:
- Larger tables and smaller pockets both have one goal, to make the game harder.
They're supposed to solve the "problem" of pros running out too easily.
- I'm not a professional, the game is hard enough as it is. I cannot run 6 packs even on buckets.
- Some people think buying equipment made for professionals (big tables with small pockets)
will somehow 'force' them to improve and will make them play more like a professional.
It's simply not true. Improvement comes from the player and their commitment to practice.
Most of us are just not committed enough to reach pro speed, even if we had all the tools.
- Big table is a pain in the ass, costs more, and is probably more work to transport and assemble.
It will also take up more room in your home. And if you ever decide to sell it, it is not in demand.
Plenty of people want a 9 footer, very few want a 10 footer. No pool room would buy it.
- The table is different from what you'll play on when you meet friends at a pool hall.
Certain things change when playing on a big table. You have less congestion, more bridge use,
the breaks that work on 9 footers may hit a little high or low on 10 footers, etc.
Whereas a 9 foot diamond is not only similar to what your buddies might play on in some pool rooms,
it's exactly what many pros play on in major events.