Porper Lathe

[Agent17]

Hi guys, and merry christmas while i'm at it.

Has anyone got experience of the Porper Model B lathe?

Advantages/disadvantages over other bench top cue lathes?

Any long term issues regarding wear/stability/accuracy?

Was there ever, or did anyone else make, a travelling or fixed steady to fit the bed/carriage?

Thank you, and a happy new year too!

 

[ratcues]

I've been using one for several years and haven't had any troubles. Like any lathe, if you take of it, it will take care of you.

I think each of the dedicated cue making lathes have advantages or disadvantages, depending on the user.

There isn't a steady rest for the Model B. I get calls on this all the time. There just isn't a need for it. If there is a certain process you are worried about, let me know and I'll try to help you out.

 

[josie]

I've been using one for several years and haven't had any troubles. Like any lathe, if you take of it, it will take care of you.

I think each of the dedicated cue making lathes have advantages or disadvantages, depending on the user.

There isn't a steady rest for the Model B. I get calls on this all the time. There just isn't a need for it. If there is a certain process you are worried about, let me know and I'll try to help you out.

Ryan,

I have a Porper and a Hightower Deluxe. I love the Porper and use it for almost every aspect of building a cue. The one disadvantage I find with the Porper is no steady rest. I use the Hightower for A-joint work and facing because of the need for a steady rest.

I use a threaded pin in my A-joint. How do you accuratley install a pin on a forearm using a Porper? I use the Hightower for this operation because it has a steady rest.

Don't take this as a Porper bashing because I love the way the lathe works.

Thanks,

Eric

 

[ratcues]

The one disadvantage I find with the Porper is no steady rest. I use the Hightower for A-joint work and facing because of the need for a steady rest.

I use a threaded pin in my A-joint. How do you accurately install a pin on a forearm using a Porper?

I run into this with my main engine lathe as well. I made a centering dowel which I put into the spindle. I have an oversized bore built into one size and then different inserts go into that to accommodate different operations.

My A joint for example; I cut the joint end of my forearm at .650" That fits into my "insert" to hold everything on center.

If that doesn't make sense, I can snap pics of mine.

 

[josie]

I run into this with my main engine lathe as well. I made a centering dowel which I put into the spindle. I have an oversized bore built into one size and then different inserts go into that to accommodate different operations.

My A joint for example; I cut the joint end of my forearm at .650" That fits into my "insert" to hold everything on center.

If that doesn't make sense, I can snap pics of mine.

I understand what you are saying. Is the dowel long enough to reach your forearm in the spindle and still stick out the back enough to remove it when you are done? Or do you insert it throgh the headstock side? A picture might be nice. I have tried the same idea but mine was not accurate enough.

Thanks,

Eric

 

[ratcues]

Its big enough that I can use it for different processes. I'll post a pic tomorrow. I'm heading out the door right now.






<~~better than banker hours...

 

[Agent17]

Thanks for the input so far.

I've got/had quite a few lathes, some big, some bench top. Been meaning to check out the Porper for years but only just got round to it.

I recently took delivery of one and the first thing I noticed was the lack of steady. I assumed there would be one, and am very surprised there is not. Or that nobody has made an add-on for after market. Guess I'll make one then

The other thing I noticed was just how stiff the tailstock is to move. Have to push so hard the whole machine moves! And yes, the tailstock lever is released before anyone asks

Hopefully, that will ease up shortly with use. If not, you'll see me in the next Mr Universe competition. I'll be the one with the massive forearms

I have a Hightower Deluxe CueSmith with a long bed and all the extras, but do not rate it much on accuracy. Headstock, tailstock, play on carriage etc., it's never been right since I got it. The rear headstock has never run true enough with the front one for my liking. I've stripped it down so many times trying to improve it, but no luck. Has to be an issue with the machining of case or spindle.

So, it's mostly used for sanding these days or when other machines are in use. It still does a job, but not a pleasure to work with.

Ratcues, what you described is exactly what I thought I would try first to overcome the lack of steady for shorter pieces. Be great to see some pics but I think I get what you have done. Should be a good accurate fix I would think.

Anyone else out there with any tips or long term experience of Porper lathe use or known wear issues/problems etc.?

 

[ddcuerepair]

I have lathe number 00373. purchased it in 1998 new and have run the crap out of it since then.
In all that time I have had to replace two of the brass gears for the carriage one set of brushes in the main motor and one on-off switch.
That's not bad for how much I run this machine.
I run this machine more than most with 25 big events each year and about 20 small events and has not let me down yet.
If you take the time to maintain the machine it will last you forever.
I take my lathe apart after every big event clean and inspect everything.

I took my lathe apart the first day I got it just to see how everything worked and went together. Being a mechanic all my life I like to see what makes thing tick.

The tail stock shouldn't be that tight I would take it apart and see what is going on.
Call Don at Creative he should be able to help you with any questions on this machine.

 

[ratcues]

The other thing I noticed was just how stiff the tailstock is to move. Have to push so hard the whole machine moves! And yes, the tailstock lever is released before anyone asks

Two things you may want to check;

First, the level can be released but still be tight. You can turn it counter-clockwise, lift the level and turn it clockwise back to where you started, and let it go to engage the "teeth" again. Then, try to turn it counter-clockwise again. If this doesn't relieve it...

Second, the tube rails are not perfectly round, by design. You may need to take them completely off and roll them on a flat surface to find the high point. That should be reassembled "up" on both. While apart, inspect the tailstock channels to see if there is any debris causing it to bind.

 

[Agent17]

In all that time I have had to replace two of the brass gears for the carriage one set of brushes in the main motor and one on-off switch.

I took my lathe apart the first day I got it just to see how everything worked and went together. Being a mechanic all my life I like to see what makes thing tick.

Call Don at Creative he should be able to help you with any questions on this machine.

I looked at the brass gears and suspected they wouldn't last forever. A machine made with ball screws would be a major improvement I think.

I also like to take things apart, but the design is quite simple and I can pretty much see how it all works so I'll save myself a job this time and just start using it.

I'm guessing Don is on holiday still as I've had no reply to my last email. I won't bother him yet.

Two things you may want to check;

First, the level can be released but still be tight. You can turn it counter-clockwise, lift the level and turn it clockwise back to where you started, and let it go to engage the "teeth" again. Then, try to turn it counter-clockwise again. If this doesn't relieve it...

Second, the tube rails are not perfectly round, by design. You may need to take them completely off and roll them on a flat surface to find the high point. That should be reassembled "up" on both. While apart, inspect the tailstock channels to see if there is any debris causing it to bind.

I'll check that on the tailstock lever.

I thought the rails were meant to be round, done by centre less grinding?

Don't forget those pics, I'm interested to see how you've done it. Cheers.

 

[manwon]

Hi guys, and merry christmas while i'm at it.

Has anyone got experience of the Porper Model B lathe?

Advantages/disadvantages over other bench top cue lathes?

Any long term issues regarding wear/stability/accuracy?

Was there ever, or did anyone else make, a travelling or fixed steady to fit the bed/carriage?

Thank you, and a happy new year too!

I have been using one for about five years and I love the machine. I have made a few modifications to some of the standard parts such as the Router Mount. You can see my changes in the link below, and I still have a few for sale.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=212760


Have a good day

 

[Agent17]

I have been using one for about five years and I love the machine. I have made a few modifications to some of the standard parts such as the Router Mount. You can see my changes in the link below, and I still have a few for sale.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=212760


Have a good day

I noticed the router mount a while back, looks useful. Might well have one off you.

Don't suppose you 'invented' a steady rest also?

 

[ratcues]

Finally... This is for my main lathe. The large Delrin dowel is just smaller than the bore of my spindle and is cored through. The centering bore is at 1.275" which I use for coring and handle work. You can see the off-white insert with a .650" bore to accept my forearm so I can work on my A joint. The back side of it holds my jumpers.

 

[ratcues]

I looked at the brass gears and suspected they wouldn't last forever. A machine made with ball screws would be a major improvement I think..

That is a safety feature. It is much cheaper to make and replace the brass gear as opposed to the feed screw and/or motor. Don has had ball screw feed quoted out and it, IIRC, it added $400 or so to the cost of the machine.

I'm guessing Don is on holiday still as I've had no reply to my last email. I won't bother him yet..

Try calling. Every time I email him, he calls me.

I thought the rails were meant to be round, done by centre less grinding?

Nope. I'm not sure what the reason is...

 

[Agent17]

Finally... This is for my main lathe. The large Delrin dowel is just smaller than the bore of my spindle and is cored through. The centering bore is at 1.275" which I use for coring and handle work. You can see the off-white insert with a .650" bore to accept my forearm so I can work on my A joint. The back side of it holds my jumpers.

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Yeah! That's what I was thinking. Good job

 

[Agent17]

That is a safety feature. It is much cheaper to make and replace the brass gear as opposed to the feed screw and/or motor. Don has had ball screw feed quoted out and it, IIRC, it added $400 or so to the cost of the machine.

Personally I think $400 for ball screw system is very cheap. I have a other lathes and cnc with ball screw and would choose that over cheaper system every time. Just my preference.

Another safety feature would be turn off the thread at either end of the feed screw so that there's no danger of automatic feed running into headstock or tailstock. I was surprised to find nothing built in to prevent this.

 

[ratcues]

Personally I think $400 for ball screw system is very cheap. I have a other lathes and cnc with ball screw and would choose that over cheaper system every time. Just my preference..

For people 'in the know,' I think you are correct. Most people buy on price.

Another safety feature would be turn off the thread at either end of the feed screw so that there's no danger of automatic feed running into headstock or tailstock. I was surprised to find nothing built in to prevent this.

There is no way to build an idiot proof machine....

 

[Agent17]

Most people buy on price.

Lol. That's true. But buy cheap, buy twice eh?

There is no way to build an idiot proof machine....

I don't class myself as an idiot but I managed too run a carriage into the headstock once, destroying all the gears. :embarrassed2:

It's something I've worried about ever since...

 

[ratcues]

The Model B is made in a way to prevent the tooling from crashing into the chuck. With the proper set-up, the carriage will contact the spindle housing before the tool post touches the chuck. If it does crash, the feed screw will shred the brass gear, saving the feed screw and motor.

 

[opiesbro]

I thought the rails were meant to be round, done by centre less grinding?

In the trucking industry if you look at a flat bed trailer while it is unloaded it looks like a rainbow. This is called preloading so that when you do load the trailer it is strong enough to hold the 26tons of load that is being placed on it and it flattens out. My guess is that is the same principle here with the rails. I'm guessing that if you were to check them after assembly they will be flat.

They also do this some in the molding industry where the machines apply from 25tons to over 3000tons of force.