Porper Model B Old circuit board

jsaxman

jsaxman

It's all about ass!
Silver Member
Joe Proper Model B lathe ~10yrs.old
Circuit board
Minarik Electrical Co.
94V0 9316 type-1
Max spd.......... 1:00
Min spd........... 9:30
Torque............ 9:00
IR Comp......... 12:00

Called Don at porper....thinks it is a old type ciucuit board.
However....It could be a new type of the old style board.

Is the above settings correct?????

The problem:
The lathe speed spikes at low speeds.....
there is current....no current....current.....speed of chuck
accelerates.....could be the IR Comp setting.....
could be defective circuit board....

May have to just replace both circuit boards....
and the front panel (newer type)

Money tight.....the boards are new.... I think....
not sure....


Anyone have problems with the chuck speed?
Any help?


Thanks for any input!!!


later,
sax
 
lathe

Sent email to the seller of the lathe ~1week ago.

No responce.


later,
sax
 
jsaxman said:
Sent email to the seller of the lathe ~1week ago.

No responce.


later,
sax
Click to expand...

If you spoke to Don Rice at Porper why are you asking anyone else. He is the expert.

I just went through a similar problem with my Porper after 13 years of no problems.

I ended up having to send the front panel and both boards back and forth 4 times.

I suggest you just bite the bullet and send it all back for repair and hope you don't have to spend as much as I did. I overnighted each time and it cost me a fortune.

Good Luck
 
Can you take a pic of the board? I might be able to help you out. I have done EXTENSIVE circuitry work on my model-B. My lathe was a lemon, utter trash. After repairing it a dozen times, I have gutted it & completely overhauled the electrical circuitry.
 
Arnot Wadsworth said:
If you spoke to Don Rice at Porper why are you asking anyone else. He is the expert.

I just went through a similar problem with my Porper after 13 years of no problems.

I ended up having to send the front panel and both boards back and forth 4 times.

I suggest you just bite the bullet and send it all back for repair and hope you don't have to spend as much as I did. I overnighted each time and it cost me a fortune.

Good Luck
Click to expand...

Coming from the IT industry, that doesn't sound like an expert at all, that's more like what you get when you go see the geek squad. If it wasn't right the first time you sent it back, you certainly shouldn't have had to continue paying, even for the shipping.

Thanks for the heads up, I can cross Porper off my list permanently. That's just crazy.
 
jsaxman said:
Joe Proper Model B lathe ~10yrs.old
Circuit board
Minarik Electrical Co.
94V0 9316 type-1
Max spd.......... 1:00
Min spd........... 9:30
Torque............ 9:00
IR Comp......... 12:00

Called Don at porper....thinks it is a old type ciucuit board.
However....It could be a new type of the old style board.

Is the above settings correct?????

The problem:
The lathe speed spikes at low speeds.....
there is current....no current....current.....speed of chuck
accelerates.....could be the IR Comp setting.....
could be defective circuit board....

May have to just replace both circuit boards....
and the front panel (newer type)

Money tight.....the boards are new.... I think....
not sure....


Anyone have problems with the chuck speed?
Any help?


Thanks for any input!!!


later,
sax
Click to expand...

Contact Micheal Webb here on the forum, Mike knows as much about Porper B lathes as anyone at Porper.
 
Have you checked the brushes in the motor? Not saying it's not the boards but I had the same thing happen and found that the brushes were worn down so far that they were not getting a good contact. Changed them and I have had no more problems since then. Hope this is all it is brushes are much cheaper than boards.

I have had my Porper since 1997. It's been a good machine so far some minor problems when I first got it. Feed motor burnt out and both boards fried, I replace the brass drive gear on the feed screw about every 6 months. But all in all it has hung in there through over 30 big tournament each year. I use this machine every day.
I am waiting for it to pop one day then I will get the new motors, Boards and wiring to rebuild it.
I got a second one for a backup unit but this one has not let me down yet.
I am looking to get a new one in Valley Forge.
 
Call Don back and ask him exactly which parts he needs you to send to him so he can test it. He'll take care of you. At least you'll know if the board is bad or not. No one here on the forum can do anything unless they have the board and all the plugs in-hand.
 
I just want to make sure everybody knows that I am more than happy with my Porper Model B. Thirteen years and only now was there a problem with the boards. Don Rice at Porper did his very best to resolve this problem and he was as cooperative as I could ever expect. I DO NOT have any problem with Porper and I would buy a Porper Model B over any cue type lathe I have ever seen.

Thanks Don and Porper for a great machine,
 
UNPLUG THE MACHINE BEFOE YOU TRY ANY OF THESE STEPS.
Don is a good guy and he has made some changes, all of which I do not agree with.
First, I would check the brushes,
Second, I would look at the back board, the one on top is for the chuck, both boards are the same by the way. One for each motor. Across the bottom of the board there are resistors, on the very left hand side facing you, look for a burn mark on the connection, this is usually the first to go when a spike occurs.
Third, look at the front panel where the forward reverse switch is, round, lots of wires, like a 10 pole switch, look for a loose wire and also look for burn marks where one of the contacts might have burnt off on the plate itself.

If you find the motor needs to be replaced, order one direct, not from Joe, do not get one of the new ones, they do not easilly fit without adding a plate. The older bodies of the machine are different. If you would like one of the new ones, I'll sell you one, The frapping thing is useless to me.

Extra boards can be obtained from Minarik,
also order extra brushes for both motors, there not that expensive.
Extra switches can be found on line, One is costly but six gets you a nice price break.
No machine should be without spare parts.
 
Last edited:
Michael Webb said:
UNPLUG THE MACHINE BEFOE YOU TRY ANY OF THESE STEPS.
Don is a good guy and he has made some changes, all of which I do not agree with.
First, I would check the brushes,
Second, I would look at the back board, the one on top is for the chuck, both boards are the same by the way. One for each motor. Across the bottom of the board there are resistors, on the very left hand side facing you, look for a burn mark on the connection, this is usually the first to go when a spike occurs.
Third, look at the front panel where the forward reverse switch is, round, lots of wires, like a 10 pole switch, look for a loose wire and also look for burn marks where one of the contacts might have burnt off on the plate itself.

If you find the motor needs to be replaced, order one direct, not from Joe, do not get one of the new ones, they do not easilly fit without adding a plate. The older bodies of the machine are different. If you would like one of the new ones, I'll sell you one, The frapping thing is useless to me.

Extra boards can be obtained from Minarik,
also order extra brushes for both motors, there not that expensive.
Extra switches can be found on line, One is costly but six gets you a nice price break.
No machine should be without spare parts.
Click to expand...

Some good advice, Mike.
 
bob_bushka said:
anyone know where i can get those round switches porper used to use?
Click to expand...

I'd have to find the paper work or you could:
do a google under forward/reverse switch and add the serial number off the switch.
 
Michael Webb said:
UNPLUG THE MACHINE BEFOE YOU TRY ANY OF THESE STEPS.
Don is a good guy and he has made some changes, all of which I do not agree with.
First, I would check the brushes,
Second, I would look at the back board, the one on top is for the chuck, both boards are the same by the way. One for each motor. Across the bottom of the board there are resistors, on the very left hand side facing you, look for a burn mark on the connection, this is usually the first to go when a spike occurs.
Third, look at the front panel where the forward reverse switch is, round, lots of wires, like a 10 pole switch, look for a loose wire and also look for burn marks where one of the contacts might have burnt off on the plate itself.

If you find the motor needs to be replaced, order one direct, not from Joe, do not get one of the new ones, they do not easilly fit without adding a plate. The older bodies of the machine are different. If you would like one of the new ones, I'll sell you one, The frapping thing is useless to me.

Extra boards can be obtained from Minarik,
also order extra brushes for both motors, there not that expensive.
Extra switches can be found on line, One is costly but six gets you a nice price break.
No machine should be without spare parts.
Click to expand...

Any motor supply can get you the brushes for a Leeson motor which is what was used on the spindle. You will need info from the motors plate, Model #, serial# and there should be a date there also. I would not remove any baords without having one to switch it out to, wire by wire. It may be okay but a spare wouldn't hurt, There only around a 100.00. You could mark the wires but if your label falls off, You'll get the picture.
 
I swapped my original motor out with a 2.5hp treadmill motor, then bought an outboard motor controller on ebay for around $100 to power it. I had to make a new pulley, then wire up to the original swith board, but it was pretty easy. There are schematics available to help you wire up the circuit boards & switches. It's pretty easy.
 
hmmm, A couple of emails and calls, THIS IS A VERY GOOD MACHINE, but like any machine new or old, learn everything you can about it. Make it yours. If you want to buy a machine, plug it in and make cues or anything without a learning curve, Please don't buy anything.
 
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