You mentioned 1/4 in another paragraph so I see what you mean. I copied and pasted that part, as I just saw you noted below.av84fun said:Colin, check my statements. I said 1/4 not 1.4. (-:
Anyway, the 1/4 or 1.4 is not the main question, though it did confuse me a little.
The main point is that your description seems to suggest that on ALL shots, the required cue position pivot offset is 0.25 inch to the right of the CTE line. I ask you to try a few shots at different angles (thin cuts to full ball) and once you have your bridge set, look at the CTE line and your pivot offset from it. It cannot always be 0.25 inch to the right. Else you'd hit every ball at about the same angle.
Also, this 0.25 inch is how far your cue center is to the right of your bridge V, and this seems to be what determines your offset. That suggests that the cue middle position relative to bridge V (at the pivot point) is the actual systematization method that creates the required offsets.
I doubt it too, because I have actually developed what I believe to be the first comprehensive side / english / throw adjustment system. That took a damn lot of work, testing, calculations and thinking. It's not simple, but it is practical and accurate. It compliments any method that can get a player aimed up accurately for a natural roll medium speed pot angle. (Pot angle changes with different speeds and rate of vertical spin of course).Pro One level guys may be able to explain a systematic adjustment for side but I doubt it.
Jim, it's great you're potting balls like never before and your's and other's testimony indicates that using this system definitely helps some players considerably. But these testimonials don't help myself or others to understand the system. Just pointing that out so you know I am not ignoring the testimony of your experiences. I just want to keep the discussion along the subject line that I think needs most attention.
Colin