Predator 314 Ferrule question

T

td1223

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
First let me say I'm a hobbyist how like to play. Picked up a Cue Companion a few months back. Today I noticed my 314-2 had a cracked ferrule. I carefully cut it off, was surprised at how much ferrule material was past the tenon. It appears to me that the the end is concave as it looks like there is glue in there but wanted to ask before digging into it. I'm also curious where I can purchase a new ferrule as I'd like to keep it original.

Thanks,

Phil
Sorry couldn't get the camera to zoom and focus.
IMG_4727.jpg
 
I'd suggest that you not 'dig into' the 'concave'(?) at the end of the tenon.
The shaft is hollow for the first 5" and your 'concave' is the cap.
You don't need to touch the tenon other than to clean it up: glue and remaining ferrule debris.
Replacement ferrules are not available, you make them. 1st Gen - Isoplast. 2nd Gen - Maxlite or Titan.
3rd Gen - the finest LBM you can find.
Good Luck

A bit more for greater clarity.
The amount of ferrule mtrl. in front of the tenon (that surprised you) is the 'cap' of a capped ferrule.
It is genereally .220/.250" thick and varies with the model of shaft.
 
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Is the capped thickness different on a Predator? I purchased some capped ferrules online, would they be .220/.250 thick or are they all different? Looking at a site like Atlas they don't provide that number.

Thanks
 
I could only speculate on the cap thickness of other capped ferrules.
I just happen to be a bit more familiar with Predators.
 
When you took off the original ferrule did you take measurements first, like the overall length? that number, minus the tenon length would give you the cap thickness. You will not find a matching ferrule out in the wild, you have to custom make it to the specs of the original one you removed.
Dave
 
Unfortunately I did not think to measure first because I figured I could purchase one. (lesson learned) I do have another 314-2 and will use that for length measurements. It's strange that with all the replacement parts available, no one sells these?
 
Phil - get yourself some Tomahawk ferrule material , ask anybody in the forums.
I'm surprised it hadn't been mentioned already.
(it's the best)
 
td1223 said:
Unfortunately I did not think to measure first because I figured I could purchase one. (lesson learned) I do have another 314-2 and will use that for length measurements. It's strange that with all the replacement parts available, no one sells these?
Click to expand...
Predator keeps a tight hold on parts, only approved repair guys have access to them as far as I know.
Dave
 
TILT9 said:
Phil - get yourself some Tomahawk ferrule material , ask anybody in the forums.
I'm surprised it hadn't been mentioned already.
(it's the best)
Click to expand...

I second this.

The ferrule material predator uses is kinda lame, tends to crack, doesn’t like glue, seems cheap IMO.
 
I did order some tomahawk today and do have another question. Do I leave a gap between the top of the stick/tenon and the cap or should it be flush?

Thanks
 
Two words : Predator Warranty.

If you are the original owner, the shaft is guaranteed for life.
Meaning, Predator would replace your ferrule for free.
You just pay s/h.
They don't have to guess at dimensions. They've done a few already.

The reason that I've returned to inform you of this is because that,
the more questions that you ask, the more you reveal of your knowledge/experience with the subject.
Unfortunately, knowledge & experience aren't included in the "Cue Companion" pkg.
You speak of wanting to keep it original. Predator already knows how to do that.

You asked : "Do I leave a gap between the top of the stick/tenon and the cap or should it be flush?"
My response will be in the form of a question that I'll leave you with to think about for a while.
Do you want the underside of the ferrule cap to be your initial contact point to the shaft
or do you want the ferrule's bottom edge to set on the shoulder of the shaft ? It can't be both.
Again, Predator already knows.

Let's consider further, ie, that you're not the orig. owner and that you have no warranty.
Predator has the correct ferrules in stock, they use the correct epoxy and they know what they're doing.
You on the other hand, have a Cue Companion and no instructions. I'm told that I'm harsh but am I wrong ?
Call Predator Warranty about cost. I'm sure that you'll find it to be very reasonable.
 
I appreciate the fact that you've gotten to the gist of my post and not focused on my delivery style.
It suggests that you may be more interested/concerned with knowledge. I like that so here's more.

I'm guessing that you're starting your journey and are currently on the 'ferrule-path'.
The fact that you're starting with a Predator ferrule may not be your best first step.
Predator's ferrule/tenon design/construction is so far to the other end of the spectrum
that it's where you end-up, not where you start. Start with what is most common.
That would be the 'thru' ferrule. In it's simplest form it's a tube. That's it.
No cap, no steps and it has no threads (in it's simplest form). Advanced form does have threads.
Once you've gotten the installation 'down' on a thru-ferrule, start exploring capped ferrules.
I'm also going to suggest that you do a 'search' of ferrule discussions. We've had many.

Most capped ferrules have internal threads, some don't. Most all will have a 'glue-relief' hole.
The excess glue has to go somewhere otherwise it could split the ferrule or prevent it from seating properly.
While there can be noticeable differences in some manufacturer's ferrule design, there are also similarities.

Now comes Predator. Their ferrule/tenon design is so UNCOMMON that it likely applies only to them.
The shaft is pie-spliced and the first 5" is hollow. How do you fit a ferrule/tenon to that ?
Their tenon is stepped and close tolerance should be maintained. You probably won't find this design elsewhere.

I wish you Luck, you may have potential. Learn as much as you can and don't be afraid to experiment.
Just do your experiments on your own and not your client's.

KJ
 
KJ,

Thank you for the response. I learned a long time ago to not read between lines or take anything to personal. I appreciate that the Cue makers out here take the time to answer questions and I can only imagine how frustrating it can get. I manage Cybersecurity organization and spend my day fielding many ridiculous questions.

As I stated earlier I’m a tinkerer and like to understand how things work. I grew up around friends who worked on lathes and milling machines but never had the desire to make stuff, that was until now. As you recommended, I took my Viking break stick, cut off a perfectly good ferule. I then drilled it, added a tenon and threaded it. Made a black Ferule from a solid rod and added the tip. I have done this a few times now. In hindsight, I probably should have sent the shaft back to Predator but I’m willing to burn $300 to learn something new. I have sent a few messages to various repair people out here looking for someone that can critique my work and teach me something new.

Thanks,

Phil
 
If it is too late and you need to create a new tenon, I'd bore that hole to fit 3/8 carbon fiber tube.
Just deep enough to adequately hold the tube securely.
True up the outside of the carbon fiber tube.
Install a ferrule.

Yeah, it will change the hit.
But, saves the shaft.
 
I'm not sure how but I did know about the stepped tenon so I carefully cut away the ferrule and did not hurt anything. The challenge for me will be replicating the step in the new Ferrule I make.
 
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