I chooped mine off. I was shocked how thin and soft it was.buddha162 said:
It looked like a lipstic tube.
They are not nearly as strong a melamine or aegis.
Those never ever break or get unthreaded if they are epoxied.
Predator shaft question
- Thread starter EL'nino
- Start date
It looked like a lipstic tube.
They are not nearly as strong a melamine or aegis.
Those never ever break or get unthreaded if they are epoxied.
fast larry
Banned
Joseph Cues said:I chooped mine off. I was shocked how thin and soft it was.
It looked like a lipstic tube.
They are not nearly as strong a melamine or aegis.
Those never ever break or get unthreaded if they are epoxied.
You got it, the first one the gave me was 13mm and I asked them to take it down to 12.5 and they said no they cant and I asked why and the reason was there would be no wall left to hold it on.
They give shafts to most pros or sell them the blems at reduced prices which is a very smart thing to do. The players see pros using them and sales then become automatic.
Joseph Cues said:I chooped mine off. I was shocked how thin and soft it was.
It looked like a lipstic tube.
They are not nearly as strong a melamine or aegis.
Those never ever break or get unthreaded if they are epoxied.
That's beside the point. If you apply lateral pressure to all these ferrules, the Predator will break first, no argument there. But under normal shooting conditions (and yes that includes breaking with it in 9ball or 8ball), there is no way in hell a Predator ferrule is under any kind of danger of splitting or cracking or "deforming."
Do you understand the principle behind Predator shafts? I mean, there's a reason they use the material they use to construct their ferrules, and it's not to cut costs.
Roger
C
Creep
Guest
It must be a Jersey thing budda, since you and I both understand "The Predator Advantage"
I understand the Predator's principle over their design.
Make the end as light as possible so the shaft itself deflects off the cueball before the cueball deflects off it.
There is also a reason why Predator is trying to come up with a new ferrule. Main one being the current one is too brittle imo.
Make the end as light as possible so the shaft itself deflects off the cueball before the cueball deflects off it.
There is also a reason why Predator is trying to come up with a new ferrule. Main one being the current one is too brittle imo.
Purdman
Banned
I have been playing since 1959. I have owned hundreds of cues. I buy, sell, trade, and collect them. I have a lathe and do cue repair almost everyday. It is my hobby and passion. I have had several cues with Predator shafts. I have bought and sold about 15 of them. They are a pain in the ass to work on. The ferrule warps, cracks, and gets miss shappen. Thats the truth. Another truth is that they also work like they are designed to work. Less cue ball deflection. Thats the claim and it is true. I found my playing cue in 1999. I know how to compensate for the deflection. It is the only cue that I will probably never sell. To tell you the truth, ya couldn't pay me to use a Predator shaft. They are not for me. A lot of folks love em, that's fine with me. We all have differant likes and dislikes. JMHO
Don
Don
Come on Don, tell us how you really feel.Donald A. Purdy said:
I am not knocking Predator shafts but I'm basing my opinion on their ferrules after my experience.
I play with "conventional" shaft now too. I took down the first 6 inches of the shaft to around 12.25MM and maintained a medium stiff taper in the next 10 inches.
I would not shoot with anything else now.
But, I realize thousands of players like the 314 shafts.
Predator ferrules are part of the design of the hit. They recomend that you don't go any smaller than 12.25 mm. If you change the ferrule to some thing else, then you just damaged the shaft.
If any one has any trouble repairing Predators then you should either send the shaft back to Predator or to my self. We will both be happy to help.
If any one has any trouble repairing Predators then you should either send the shaft back to Predator or to my self. We will both be happy to help.
I think the technology behind the 314 is solid. I like it. I use it. Just stated what happened to my friend when he uses the 314 in breaking. He does not experience it with the shafts on his playing cue. Hes won both local and international tournaments with them. ----- BTW, one of his 314 shafts was turned down to 11.9mm. 
Purdman
Banned
Mike, I don't mind repairing them, thanks for the offer though. I do have a customer who owns about $30,000 worth of 5 and 6 thousand dollar cues that thinks 11mm shafts are where it's at. I really hate retipping them. Dude thinks layered tips are worthless because they come apart on him. I will bet ya a dollar to a donut that none of em will be straight in about a month. Miscues everytine he tries to put something on a shot. What advise would you give him? Am I wrong or is he freaking nuts? He plays nine ball and 14-1. What ya think?
Don P.
Don P.
Hi Mr. Purdy:
I would definately look at the shape he chooses on his tips, may be a nickle, or even a little more flat. I think he's just sliding of the ball. How about a triangle or a sumo tip. Sumo's will turn down very small with out falling apart. I use them on my new break cues.
I would definately look at the shape he chooses on his tips, may be a nickle, or even a little more flat. I think he's just sliding of the ball. How about a triangle or a sumo tip. Sumo's will turn down very small with out falling apart. I use them on my new break cues.
Purdman
Banned
Do you think turning them down to 11mm messes with the integrity of the shaft? One cuemaker told me he would gurantee the shaft to be straight from the lathe to the door. What is your opinion Mike? I think it is just plain stupid.JMHO
Don P.
I am sure him or his goofey friend will read this. I mean his clone!
Don P.
I am sure him or his goofey friend will read this. I mean his clone!
I offer shafts from 14 mm to 9 mm Snooker shafts. I haven't had any real problems to discourage me from offering these sizes.
Maple is Maple, but if treated and cut properly. The yeild is
definately greater than the waste.
Maple is Maple, but if treated and cut properly. The yeild is
definately greater than the waste.