Problems with BK2 quick connect?

Spimp13

O8 Specialist
Silver Member
Has anyone had this problem, where they break with the cue and then find out they have to re twist the cue to lock it again before the next break? I figure this is probably common on most if not all metal quick connect cues? My break cue is used, but not that old. I wonder if this has any impact on my break if it is not totally locked? I may just have to get a new break cue.
 
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Has anyone had this problem, where they break with the cue and then find out they have to re twist the cue to lock it again before the next break? I figure this is problem common on most if not all metal quick connect cues? My break cue is used, but not that old. I wonder if this has any impact on my break if it is not totally locked? I may just have to get a new break cue.

Have a 3/8 10 pin installed... Its the only way to go IMO
 
Has it always happened or has this developed over time? Sometimes you can clean the face of both the butt and shaft with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel, and it will 'grip' together better. Next, clean the inside of the insert with alcohol and a q-tip. Try that first and see what happens.
 
Matt:

Just had one in my shop with the same problem. I refaced both shaft and butt and seems to be working fine!

DOUG
 
Has anyone had this problem, where they break with the cue and then find out they have to re twist the cue to lock it again before the next break? I figure this is probably common on most if not all metal quick connect cues? My break cue is used, but not that old. I wonder if this has any impact on my break if it is not totally locked? I may just have to get a new break cue.

This condition is not exclusive to the Predator BK.
Potentially, any cue with a Uni-Loc QR pin/insert can experience this.
However, it can be particularly troublesome on a cue that will receive the greatest impact at the joint, such as in this case, when breaking.
Breaking with a cue that has a loose joint can be devastating and not in a good way. You can literally destroy the cue.

I think it just makes good common sense to confirm the 'snugness' of your joint every time you go to the table. Break cue, game cue, whatever.
Neither of the cues that I play with have a Uni-Loc QR joint but I check them anyway. It has become such an ingrained part of my routine that I do it sub-consciously, just out of habit. At times, this can be a little unnerving for my opponent. When he hears the bones in my hands 'crackling', he knows I'm about to put some serious hurt on him.

I should also state that this condition is not exclusive to the Uni-Loc QR.
Just about any other thread can have the potential of coming loose during play due to lack of maintenance, unclean joint surfaces, etc. or just not being totally secured to begin with.

I will admit that this problem seems to be more prevalent with the Uni-QR though because of it's design. It relies on just one thread to get the job done. Any other pin/thread relies on multiple threads to make the connection. More threads = greater thread contact area. The greater the contact area, the less likely it will move. Finer threads are also less likely to move because of the angle of the thread.
People bought into the convenience of quick assembly of their cue but that convenience comes with a trade-off. That trade-off is that their cue comes apart easier also.
 
I think it just makes good common sense to confirm the 'snugness' of your joint every time you go to the table. Break cue, game cue, whatever.

Thanks for the replies guys. I think instead of paying for shipping and to have it refaced I will just do this. If it gets worse I will just get a new non uniloc break cue!
 
I used the uni-lock quick release when I first started building cues and found them to be problematic and unreliable . 3/8x10 or 3/8x8 pins work fine . My machinist is sending me some 3/8x10 jump-break pins he designed for me to try ... Will post as soon as he delivers...:eek:
 
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