Project Tomahawk ferrule material.

j2pac

Marital Slow Learner.
Gold Member
Silver Member
IF YOU WISH TO PURCHASE THE MATERIAL, PLEASE POST A REQUEST IN THIS THREAD. It will greatly improve my chances of keeping track of who wants material. Thank you sincerely.
j2

Project Tomahawk ferrule material for sale. I currently have a limited quantity of approx. 28 feet, of 3/4" solid rod. There is no tubing currently available for this material, and 3/4" is the smallest diameter available for ferrule use that the manufacturer will produce, as they have no desire to retool their operation for this niche use of their material.

This material is a thermoset/thermoplastic. It is a professional grade material, that is made here in the U.S. It is amorphous, meaning it has no visible structure, or grain so to speak. It is not quite as hard as LBM, but lighter than either LBM, or Masons Micarta, and just as durable in Bob Dzuricky's opinion. It is not rolled, or woven, so there will be no pitting, or material inconsistencies. It is a very pleasing white color, and once finished, should be impervious to chalk. It does not add any artificial pings, or tings, or clicks to the hit of the cue. It is simply pure performance. It is extremely solid! It is a fairly expensive material, but well worth the cost in my opinion, as I believe it competes with any premium ferrule material on the market. This is NOT a material for everyone, because it essentially machines a little quirky. In Bob's words, "it machined somewhat like a PVC, but it didn't react like one." The way this material machines, IS it's only drawback, if you can even call it that. It will tend to ribbon a bit, and you should use absolutely fresh, and very fine sandpapers for final finish, and it can burnished according to Jeff Cole, I assume depending on your technique. Once finished, it is an absolutely class ferrule material, that is light, strong, impact resistant, solid, chemical resistant, and really looks good on maple. I would like to stress that this NOT a practice material IMO. For those who have less than very sharp tooling, and decent grade machinery, it could require some extra time and patience to get right. So I repeat, unless you are a competent professional cuesmith, or repair person, this may not be the material for you. For those who do choose to develop a relationship with this material, I believe you will be extremely satisfied once you have achieved a well finished ferrule. I stress these points because I believe in my material, but I also want to be candid upfront. No one material can be all things to all people, and at the prices I'm setting, believe me, my margins are not astronomical by any means, and the price may be subject to change in the future. Because of my initial limited quantity, I will restrict initial orders, to no more than 2 feet per customer, as I would like to see as many as possible get a chance to try it out. The pricing structure is below. It is not negotiable. Thank you all. :cool:

Pricing is as follows. I will sell one 6 inch piece for $14.00 shipped, or one foot for $24.00 shipped, within the lower 48 continental United States ONLY. These prices are out the door. I will accept Paypal, or U.S. Postal money order ONLY. If you pay via U.S. Postal money order, I will NOT ship your material until the money order shows, and is cashed.

To Hawaii, Alaska, or anywhere else abroad, the price WILL be $12.00 per 6 inch piece, or $22.00 per foot, PLUS actual shipping cost, NO exceptions, PAYPAL ONLY, and you must be reputable AZB'er, with outstanding I-Trader.

Some of the six inch pieces that I have, are actually a little closer to 6.5" in length...Just a footnote.

I will accept no responsibility for lost or damaged shipments, due to the Postal Service, and I reserve the right to refuse sale to anyone at my discretion. When these packages leave my hands they will be what you order. I will attempt to submit tracking information to all who order. I will honor shipments by post number in this thread ONLY. When you post that you would like to order, please indicate your quantity, NOT to exceed 2 feet. At that point, I will PM you either my Paypal address, or a mailing address. Thank you all for your interest. :cool:
j2


The pricing structure reflects the updates that were added on 09/01/2016.
 
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Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
I am interested in a foot to try it, but would like to ask a few questions first...has it been tested as a ferrule on a break cue (normal type of breaking)? If so, how does it hold up, like did it deform any?
I make capped threaded ferrules, can normal taps be used, or does it have to be live threaded?
Thanks,
Dave
 

j2pac

Marital Slow Learner.
Gold Member
Silver Member
I am interested in a foot to try it, but would like to ask a few questions first...has it been tested as a ferrule on a break cue (normal type of breaking)? If so, how does it hold up, like did it deform any?
I make capped threaded ferrules, can normal taps be used, or does it have to be live threaded?
Thanks,
Dave

I have broken several racks with it myself. NO deformation, and no failures...yet. ;) Bob Dzuricky would be the one to ask about the threading issue you're interested in. I believe that Bob does live thread, so I can't responsibly answer this question, and feel good about giving you a competent answer. It's as honest as I can be. :cool:
Joe P.
 

j2pac

Marital Slow Learner.
Gold Member
Silver Member
I am interested in a foot to try it, but would like to ask a few questions first...has it been tested as a ferrule on a break cue (normal type of breaking)? If so, how does it hold up, like did it deform any?
I make capped threaded ferrules, can normal taps be used, or does it have to be live threaded?
Thanks,
Dave

I just sent Bob a text, hopefully he will chime in and answer this question. He may also be able to lend a little more insight, as to his experience/s with the material. He has been an absolutely class individual during this project. :cool:
j2
 

cuewould

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
sounds good

I'll take a foot can you send me your info.........Tanks .......Ray Weeks
 

j2pac

Marital Slow Learner.
Gold Member
Silver Member
I'm logging off for awhile gents. To those who sent payment, Thank you. I will get your material out in the morning. I may check back in later this evening. The interest is much appreciated. :cool:
j2
 

dzcues

newbie
Silver Member
Project Tomahawk (PH) Review

First, let me state that I have no stake in this endeavor. I was asked to try PH & review it. Since good ferrule materials are hard to find & usually require some sort of compromise, I'm always on the lookout for something better. Bottom line: I like PH. Not everybody will - especially if you like the hard crack of LBM - but it's a new alternative out there that shows great promise.

I have 4 shafts in the field getting regular abuse in the hopes of finding some weakness in PH. The players know that I'm testing its durability & were asked to work it hard. Those 4 are uncapped & threaded 3/8-16 through. Shaft diameters range from 12.6 to 13 mm. Players have been breaking & jumping with no issues at all.

I also have:
- 2 shafts (12.75 mm) that have 3/8" uncapped tenons similar to the old Meucci design.
- 1 shaft (capped) with 3/8-16 threads
- 2 Predator replacement ferrules (capped) with .400" tenon & 12.75 mm shafts.
- 1 Poison replacement ferrule (capped) with .410" tenon & 13 mm shaft.
- 1 Falcon replacement shaft (uncapped) with 3/8-16 threads.

I have glued the ferrule on using slow epoxy, fast epoxy & titebond with no issues. Tips remain glued solidly in place with a variety of CA's.

Regarding machining PH: As mentioned, it cuts like PVC & first impressions weren't promising. My first thought was "import ferrule material" but I promised to try it. Drilling PH can cause it to melt if you run it too fast, use dull tooling or try drilling too deep. Use a lead drill 1st, then follow up with the tap drill. This isn't a problem but I'm giving fair warning: treat it like the thermoset it is.

I live tool my threads but have tried tapping with no problems at all. If you have any problems (I didn't) a drop of water would be all you need to lubricate your drill or tap. I used no lube while live tooling, drilling or tapping my ferrules.

I used hi rake carbide inserts to machine the OD of the installed ferrules & it cuts cleanly but leaves tooling marks per your feed rate. FRESH sandpaper cleans it up easily & it polishes nicely, too.

Despite its apparent softness, it gives a nice hit: solid but without the harshness of LBM. It is impervious to chalk. So far, I have not had a failure despite being uncapped & having thin walls. I think it will be a very good candidate for LD ferrule replacements, too.
 

ekb6760

Misplaced Texan
Gold Member
Silver Member
I would like 1 foot please. I await your PM with PayPal info.

Thank you,

Kevin
 
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