I'd like to try 1 ft of white ferrule material
I'll take 1 foot white paypal 30315.
Any plans of making this available in larger diameters for other uses?
2 four footers, and a couple of white 1 footers left in stock.
j2
Remaining stock.
2 white 4 footers left.
Best regards.
Joe P
ordered my first "6 pack" of ferrules , thanks Kelly.
First, let me state that I have no stake in this endeavor. I was asked to try PH & review it. Since good ferrule materials are hard to find & usually require some sort of compromise, I'm always on the lookout for something better. Bottom line: I like PH. Not everybody will - especially if you like the hard crack of LBM - but it's a new alternative out there that shows great promise.
I have 4 shafts in the field getting regular abuse in the hopes of finding some weakness in PH. The players know that I'm testing its durability & were asked to work it hard. Those 4 are uncapped & threaded 3/8-16 through. Shaft diameters range from 12.6 to 13 mm. Players have been breaking & jumping with no issues at all.
I also have:
- 2 shafts (12.75 mm) that have 3/8" uncapped tenons similar to the old Meucci design.
- 1 shaft (capped) with 3/8-16 threads
- 2 Predator replacement ferrules (capped) with .400" tenon & 12.75 mm shafts.
- 1 Poison replacement ferrule (capped) with .410" tenon & 13 mm shaft.
- 1 Falcon replacement shaft (uncapped) with 3/8-16 threads.
I have glued the ferrule on using slow epoxy, fast epoxy & titebond with no issues. Tips remain glued solidly in place with a variety of CA's.
Regarding machining PH: As mentioned, it cuts like PVC & first impressions weren't promising. My first thought was "import ferrule material" but I promised to try it. Drilling PH can cause it to melt if you run it too fast, use dull tooling or try drilling too deep. Use a lead drill 1st, then follow up with the tap drill. This isn't a problem but I'm giving fair warning: treat it like the thermoset it is.
I live tool my threads but have tried tapping with no problems at all. If you have any problems (I didn't) a drop of water would be all you need to lubricate your drill or tap. I used no lube while live tooling, drilling or tapping my ferrules.
I used hi rake carbide inserts to machine the OD of the installed ferrules & it cuts cleanly but leaves tooling marks per your feed rate. FRESH sandpaper cleans it up easily & it polishes nicely, too.
Despite its apparent softness, it gives a nice hit: solid but without the harshness of LBM. It is impervious to chalk. So far, I have not had a failure despite being uncapped & having thin walls. I think it will be a very good candidate for LD ferrule replacements, too.
I've read about it , heard about it and now I've tried it.
I like everything about Tomahawk , color , density , plays the ball well , cleans easy , light absorption.
(it's not shiny cheap , appears appropriate to the cue's wood quality).
The reason for this post is feedback , positive feedback.
Right now , I'm working to build a custom with the help of David Schmelke.
The ferrules , dress collars and butt cap will be Tomahawk , it's that good looking.
It's the "New Micarta" (except it doesn't amber).
So far Tomahawk material's can be found in white and black and only rod form.
I'd like cream and I'd like sheets of it as well for inlay , with any luck that will happen.
Tomahawk is going to sweep the market , I'm sure.
I tried it , I like it , I want more of it (a lot more)
Hi all. The Tomahawk for sale page is up and live on my site. :thumbup:
http://mvpcues.com/tomahawk.php
I do not have any black joint/butt sized material yet. If anyone is interested in that color/size, drop me a message and I will get that rolling. As long as there is demand, I plan to keep the store fully stocked.
I will strive to ship next business day, but sometimes I might need an extra day to get to the post office.
Other than the additional sizes and purchasing through the web page, I don't plan to change much in regards to price and shipping.
Feedback welcome...feel free to contact me with any questions.