putting on a tip question

bruin70

bruin70

don't wannabe M0DERATOR
Silver Member
i have a very good friend who does lots of repair work. i never let him do my tips. why?,,,,because he can't put them on flush to the ferrule(A). i think his reasoning is that he would scratch the ferrule if he tried.

this is what he tells me, so as a workaround, he tapers the tip(B). i hate this for many reasons, and i don't have anyone to do my tips as a result.

can you help me,,,,,,HIM!!,,,and tell me how to install a tip flush to the ferrule?

thanks
 

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Tell him to go to Home Depot and get the Lenox Gold titanium edged blade and learn how to use it.
Angle the blad just a hair towards the floor on the tip and trim away until he almost hits the ferrule.
OR watch Sheldon's video.
 
Joey Pretty much hit that one right on the head and countersunk it. check out sheldon's video, should be in a recent thread. Key words "utility knife" or "blade" may help bring it up in a quick search.

Does your friend have a lathe? The other thing i would wonder would be is he sanding them down to size, instead of cutting them, some people like to taper tips some anyway, so as to account for any mushrooming that make take place after the tip is broke in, but sometimes It's a sign that someone is grinding or sanding the tips to size. It can also happen when trimming with a utility knife, but after a while you get the hang of it, and that's the way I like to trim the tips flush with the ferrule. I take it down alittle with a cutting tool in the tool post Of my lathe leaving a small lip to catch the blade, and finish with the U-knife the way Joey mentioned. I then lightly polish and burmish, and cut My final radius.

Greg
 
I'm a little confused. If he could achieve (B), why couldn't he achieve (A)?

Are you saying that he leaves a little overhang around the entire tip and compensates by tapering the sides in, and the overhang is what you mean by the tip not being "flush"?

-Roger
 
buddha162 said:
I'm a little confused. If he could achieve (B), why couldn't he achieve (A)?

Are you saying that he leaves a little overhang around the entire tip and compensates by tapering the sides in, and the overhang is what you mean by the tip not being "flush"?

-Roger
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what my friend can't do(he says) is fashion a tip flush or even with the ferrule. that is,,,flush along the sides., because if he tries he will shave or worse yet, nick, a bit of the ferrule itself. he finds it impossible to get the tip PERFECTLY even with the ferrule if he tries to align the blade as in A. so in order to avoid having the blade touch the ferrule or worrying about perfect flushness , he purposely angles the blade to a taper(B), so that it won't touch the ferrule when he fashions the tip.
 

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What you can do is take some 1000+ grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and cut a strip about 3/4 inch wide by 6 to 8 inches long. Wrap it around the ferrule and and also around the base of the tip. Then, while applying pressure to the strip onto the ferrule, pull to "unwrap' the strip from the ferrule itself. That process should give you a tip that is flush with the ferrule.
 
Michael Webb said:
Why don't you have him drive 3 hours and come see me, I'll square him away.
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you might even know who he is here in nyc. i'll email him :):)
 
This might help...before I even install the tip I double wrap the ferrule with masking tape being carefule to have the edge of the tape at the edge of the ferrule.

The point is to keep any excess glue from getting on the ferrule, but I don't remove the tape until the new tip is trimmed and burnished.

LWW
 
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