Question about cue descriptions...
- Thread starter Skess
- Start date
My understanding is that the A and B positions are the rings on the shaft and butt joint collar, respectively. C is just above the wrap/handle section. D and E are at the top (near the handle/wrap) and bottom (near the buttcap) of the butt sleeve.Skess said:
soo... on the points on a cue... is a veneer the wood that outlines a point? or the wood that IS outlined?
just trying to figure it out.
hope somebody read this...
just trying to figure it out.
hope somebody read this...
Yes, that is correct.Onemoreyouth said:
It is hard to explain. Many people do not understand how a V groove point is installed. If they did, they would understand a bit easier how a recut is done.pillage6 said:
A recut is simply a point cut into another point. They give the appearance of having veneers. Many cuemakers choose not to use the word veneers in referring to a recut. If they do, they generally call them hardwood veneers.
edit; I should not have used the word "simply". There is nothing simple about doing them correctly!
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Point construction info:
First, you have to understand the difference between a CNC point and a true splice.
A CNC point is actually an inlay into the forearm of the cue cut with a milling machine or pantograph, etc. with a flat bottomed bit. The bit is moved along the lenght to form a pocket or trough in the forearm wood, and another (or several other) piece of wood, ivory, etc. inlay material is cut precisely to fit in that pocket. The pocket is flat bottomed. The inlayed points are simply glued into the pocket ane the cue is turned and finished.
Most true splices:
Imagine cutting a cue with sharp points in half at the base of the points where the wrap starts. Turn the cue on its end, and a true spliced cue will look like a piece of pie. Now to the explanation. The forearm wood starts out as a solid block of wood. In the case of a 4 point cut, there is a point at every 90 degree position of the forearm. The block of wood is positioned in a milling machine equipped with a bit that has a perfect 90 degree head. The bed that the block is positioned in is also tilted so that the bit doesn't cut straight across at the same depth. The milling machine is started and the forearm block is moved along the bed and the mill cuts a 90 degree groove in the block. The block is then progressively 90 degrees and the cut is made until you have all four grooves cut into the block. Now is where the veneers come into play. There are three things you can do from this point. Veneers (thin layers of wood) can be either laid into the points at 90 degrees to each other with one butting agains the other (as in the case upon close inspection of Southwest, Kersenbrock, and others), or the ends of the veneers are mitered 45 degrees to form something similar to a corner of a picture frame along the length of the groove (Scruggs, Meucci, Huebler, etc.). They do this however many times they want until they get the desired number of veneers. Then they glue the point wood which is a small piece of wood cut at a 90 degree angle that will fit into the groove above the veneers. When the cue is turned on the lathe, you end up with points outlined by veneers. In a recut cue, instead of laying the veneers, they put a piece of pointwood, they cut a very thin point in that point, and continue until they have however many recut points they desire. This technique is used by makers such as Mike Bender, Skip Weston, Mottey, etc. This produces the most waste, but also there are no veneer glue lines to be seen.
First, you have to understand the difference between a CNC point and a true splice.
A CNC point is actually an inlay into the forearm of the cue cut with a milling machine or pantograph, etc. with a flat bottomed bit. The bit is moved along the lenght to form a pocket or trough in the forearm wood, and another (or several other) piece of wood, ivory, etc. inlay material is cut precisely to fit in that pocket. The pocket is flat bottomed. The inlayed points are simply glued into the pocket ane the cue is turned and finished.
Most true splices:
Imagine cutting a cue with sharp points in half at the base of the points where the wrap starts. Turn the cue on its end, and a true spliced cue will look like a piece of pie. Now to the explanation. The forearm wood starts out as a solid block of wood. In the case of a 4 point cut, there is a point at every 90 degree position of the forearm. The block of wood is positioned in a milling machine equipped with a bit that has a perfect 90 degree head. The bed that the block is positioned in is also tilted so that the bit doesn't cut straight across at the same depth. The milling machine is started and the forearm block is moved along the bed and the mill cuts a 90 degree groove in the block. The block is then progressively 90 degrees and the cut is made until you have all four grooves cut into the block. Now is where the veneers come into play. There are three things you can do from this point. Veneers (thin layers of wood) can be either laid into the points at 90 degrees to each other with one butting agains the other (as in the case upon close inspection of Southwest, Kersenbrock, and others), or the ends of the veneers are mitered 45 degrees to form something similar to a corner of a picture frame along the length of the groove (Scruggs, Meucci, Huebler, etc.). They do this however many times they want until they get the desired number of veneers. Then they glue the point wood which is a small piece of wood cut at a 90 degree angle that will fit into the groove above the veneers. When the cue is turned on the lathe, you end up with points outlined by veneers. In a recut cue, instead of laying the veneers, they put a piece of pointwood, they cut a very thin point in that point, and continue until they have however many recut points they desire. This technique is used by makers such as Mike Bender, Skip Weston, Mottey, etc. This produces the most waste, but also there are no veneer glue lines to be seen.