question about shaft and wood seasoning

[JBCustomCues]

After cutting saft wood and or any other wood do most people seal there wood with C.A. or some other type of sealant? And if so Why? Does'nt that defeat the purpose of seasoning the wood? Effectively would that be like ripping a band aid off of a fresh cut. I thought the point of doing small passes over a long period of time was to let the wood aclimate to the humidity and the enviroment. Anyways just wanting to know what the cue makers thing of this topic.
thanks

 

[Sheldon]

I think you should search the forums. It's been covered many times. Post a question again when you have something more specific to ask.

 

[ratcues]

I feel that sealing the wood between turns is not meant to stop the transfer of moisture but to mearly slow it down. There is no true way to stop it. I guess it depends on your specific climate.

 

[johnf_34]

Hmm

Now, in my understanding....the ends definitely need to be sealed in order to keep the drying fairly consistent. In wood, the moisture escapes quicker through the ends of the wood, which cause it to be dryer than the middle which causes it to warp....as well as crack/twist or whatever. Now, I'm not sure about sealing the entire piece, but at some point I'm sure it's good to start doing that....?

 

[desi2960]

in case you missed other thread, acryloid b72

this compound is used to restore old masters oil paintings. if a painting has a crack, its soaked in b72 when the paint softens the sides of the crack can be pushed down to close the crack. when the b72 cures it hardens without leaving any color. this compound is used on paintings that are worth thousands and thousands of dollars so imo its not going to harm a shaft. i have made a vacuum chamber and i process a lot of my shafts in b72. when placed under a vacuum the b72 is forced into the air pockets of the wood, when it cures it seals the shaft. side by side a treated shaft and a non treated shaft look the same. only drawback is its a pain to use. it looks like broken plexiglass and i have not found an easy way to crush all the small pieces into a powder so it can be desolved in tulane.

 

[ratcues]

Now, in my understanding....the ends definitely need to be sealed in order to keep the drying fairly consistent. In wood, the moisture escapes quicker through the ends of the wood, which cause it to be dryer than the middle which causes it to warp....as well as crack/twist or whatever. Now, I'm not sure about sealing the entire piece, but at some point I'm sure it's good to start doing that....?

True, moisture escapes quicker from the end grain and I seal the wood, if it isn't already, when I get a new shipment. Once the wood has sat in the shop for a specific length of time, I start the turning process and and no longer seal it other than Nelsonite.