Question About Tip Replacement

[ArizonaPete]

After cutting the old tip off of the cue, you have to sand the residue of the old tip off of the ferrule before replacing the tip. Does anyone have suggestions on how to get the ferrule surface perfectly flat to accept the new tip? I sometimes really have to work at getting a flat surface. Mueller's sells a sanding device that supposedly gives a good flat surface to the ferrule for $15. Has anyone used this and what is their opinion.

 

[Maniac]

If you don't mind dropping @ $15, there's a product called the Rapid Cue Top Sander. Page 128 in the Mueller (www.poolndarts.com) catalog. I've got one. It works pretty good. I don't just clamp it to my shaft and sand though. First I attach some blue Painter's Masking Tape around my ferrule to about 1/32 of an inch from the tip. Then I cut the old tip off with a sharp and sturdy box-knife as close to the ferrule as I safely can. Then I take a Sharpie and put four marks on the blue tape as a marker to tell where to rotate the Sanders clamp. I don't try to get all the old tip off all at once, rather I "sneak up" on it while rotating the clamp on the ferrule every 10-12 turns of the sanding wheel. I always get a nice, evenly sanded ferrule and have never had any problems with tips popping off (except for those pesky White Diamonds).

Maniac

 

[androd]

after cutting the old tip off of the cue, you have to sand the residue of the old tip off of the ferrule before replacing the tip. Does anyone have suggestions on how to get the ferrule surface perfectly flat to accept the new tip? I sometimes really have to work at getting a flat surface. Mueller's sells a sanding device that supposedly gives a good flat surface to the ferrule for $15. Has anyone used this and what is their opinion.

the grinders that slip over your shaft seem to do a pretty god job. Haven't used one in years, but they should be even better now.

 

[perspicaz]

Seybert's rapid cue top sander is ok. I use it and creates a flat surface, just don't tighten it too much (or even firm) or you will dent the shaft. I cover the shaft first with masking tape.

 

[accustatsfan]

The hand sanders work well its recommended to put a matchbook cover between the clamp to avoid marking the shaft and masking tape on the ferrule.

I've done several tips and I'm only on my second piece of sandpaper.

Something I read on here (first time I heard of it) for gluing the tip that works well was to spread glue on a piece of paper and rub tip to evenly spread the glue.

 

[Scaramouche]

I'm low-tech. I always used a good sharp metal file. Takes a steady hand and some patience.

I use a 10 inch mill bastard file left over from sharpening steel ski edges. The residual glue (super glue) is reasonably soft, so getting rid of it doesn't take much effort.

If that sounds like using a sledge hammer to kill a flea, try a nail file.

 

[ARROWCRUSHER]

Yes those rapid sanders work well. Just put alittle tape on the shaft so you dont mark the shaft up but they get it flush ,<<

 

[Thunder Thighs]

Here's a couple from Seybert's

 

[ctyhntr]

The one on the right, Tweeten Plastic Sander is only $1.95 from either Seyberts or Muellers.

Here's a couple from Seybert's

 

[asn130]

i use a razor blade & set it flush on the ferrule & turn the shaft slowly...it scrapes all the residual tip & glue off & provides a very flat surface.

 

[HumdingerBarry]

question about tip replacement

forget about all that heavy duty stuff. Cut the tip off with a sharp knife and when you've got most of the residue leather off the ferrule use the side of the edge of the knife and scrape while slowly turning the shaft until you get a clean up. I use exclusively Morri QT Hard that has a little picture of a glue bottle on the bottom to be glued. I lap it on an 8" smooth file and you can see it come in flat then rest it on surface its going to be mounted and look for daylight. I use Tiger glue and use a minimum amount but alittle over spill must be taken care of right away. Again while holding the tip on use the side of the edge of a knife and scrape up towards the tip lightly. Then lightly clamp. When I'm ready to shape I bring in the sides first by using light pencil marks on the ferrule as witness so I don't go to far. I then use a pick and shaping block to finish. I do many tips in my area and charge $35 . I only use Morri's. I don't use a lathe but I was a Tool and Die maker for 40 years and a pool player for 56 years.

 

[stevee]

I use an exacto knife with the larger blade, and use the smaller blade to score the back of the tip. Gotta be careful though! I only put tips on my own cues.

 

[Irish634]

After cutting the old tip off of the cue, you have to sand the residue of the old tip off of the ferrule before replacing the tip. Does anyone have suggestions on how to get the ferrule surface perfectly flat to accept the new tip? I sometimes really have to work at getting a flat surface. Mueller's sells a sanding device that supposedly gives a good flat surface to the ferrule for $15. Has anyone used this and what is their opinion.

Here is an awesome tutorial by RiverCity. I made it into a pdf file a while ago and am sure I still have it kicking around somewhere at home. Shoot me a PM with your email and I'll send it to you later tonight.

Craig

 

[Ponytail]

Before I had a lathe, I used tweetens sander, but any of the quick sanders they sell for tips will work.

I went a step farther than putting tape to protect the shaft. I got some felt and glued it to the clamps in the sander.

This worked very well and did not damage any shaft. Another thing I did to ensure a flat surface, was only move the rotating disk a couple of inches back and fourth.

Best of luck..