Question for table mechanics

M

mnShooter

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a 9' Gabriel Signature Pro with 4.75" corner pockets. I want to get the pockets resized to 4.25". Should I just add an extra pocket facing or should I replace the rubber so there are no dead parts on the end of the rails.

I have talked to two mechanics around the area. One of them said I should try shimming them first. He also said that in order to replace the rubber he would have to "build out the wood". Does anyone know what this means?

The other mechanic said that tighter pockets wouldn't help me get better. All I know is the pockets at the pool hall aren't as forgiving as they are on my table. So everytime I go play there I have to tighten up, get better position and focus more on pocketing because shots that will go in on my table won't at the pool hall.
 
Extending the wood means that they will actually extend the wood of the rail out farther so you can cut new rubber and add original pocket facings without sacrificing playability. It's not as easy as it sounds of course. I have found that just shimming the pockets with an extra facing on the rails causes a deadening reaction when the ball hits the facing. Sometimes you hang balls that should have went in as well.
 
mnShooter said:
... All I know is the pockets at the pool hall aren't as forgiving as they are on my table. ...
Click to expand...
The pockets on your home table will tighten up as the cloth gets older. I assume that you got new cloth when it was installed. Wait 6 months and see if you can still notice a difference.

If you are going to replace the rubber, replace it with the brand that is on there now, which should be "Artemis with K66 profile." Expect to pay about $170 for just the material. Or, you could go for the cheap stuff for $38 per set ($20/set in quantity).

The rubber has to have wood behind it. The rails are fixed relative to the slate. This means that if you want the pockets smaller, the rubber has to be longer and the wood has to be longer, both extending into the pocket to make the pocket smaller. It is much cheaper to put in shims, but then the pockets will play differently, and especially banks near the corners will play differently, which is important at one pocket.
 
What I've found that works is removing your shim that is presently on your table, place a desired width shim made from gum rubber and then putting your original shim back on top of the gum rubber.

This eliminates the funny clunking and dead spots near the pockets on near misses as the gum rubber plays very similar to cushion rubber, and saves having to lengthen the wood.

I will warn you that cutting the gum rubber( usually purchased in flat sheets) to fit can be very difficult and tedious. The easiest way I have found is to place the original shim as a template and use a very sharp long bladed knife dipped frequently in soapy water. Be extremely careful not to cut the original shims.

Bern

Certified Brunswick Table Mechanic.
 
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