Radial Pin Q

cut shot

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
How do you tell a real Radial Pin from a cheap copy? I have heard there is a big difference. :confused:
 
The pins used overseas have a thicker pitch and unless it is out of the cue most people could not tell. Out of the cue the bottom has a different thread and shoulder which I believe is 5/16's X 18. I changed one once but didn't pay much attention just tossed it in the trash.
 
it changes the hit, my trevor moore has one and i think it hits softer than my schon..i may be wrong though
 
Michael Webb said:
The radial hits the same as a 3/8X10.
Mr Webb

If the Radial pin has the same hit as the 3/8-10 then why would anyone including a cue maker incur the added cost of the radial pin over the 3/8-10.

Is it like the moori tips just a bunch of hoopla to raise the pricing?

My Troy Downey cues both have Radial pins and I love the way they hit, they seem to be a bit more solid hitting than some of my other cues.
 
Kevin Lindstrom said:
Mr Webb

If the Radial pin has the same hit as the 3/8-10 then why would anyone including a cue maker incur the added cost of the radial pin over the 3/8-10.

Is it like the moori tips just a bunch of hoopla to raise the pricing?

My Troy Downey cues both have Radial pins and I love the way they hit, they seem to be a bit more solid hitting than some of my other cues.
The pin has very little to do with the difference in the hit imo since both are 3/8.
I think the radial pin has more contact with the female wood threads because the wood rides the inside of the radial pin's threads not the tips.
 
Personally I think it's just another option for cue makers. Bill Stroud introduced it so that automatically made it popular. I play with both pins and don't feel any difference in the hit. Nor do I charge any more or less for what pin the players prefers. Most cuemakers that use it tend to like the fact that it has an alignment shoulder to go in the butt of the cue. I do not like the shoulder. I prefer threads all the way. If you drill and tap straight, it's straight. I see quite a few cue makers that use the radial pin but also use the 3/8X10 for joining the splice. The splice is one of the most critical areas of the cue. As for the moori tip, I play with it and prefer it, my mext choice is the Hercules, then the Triangle.
 
Kevin Lindstrom said:
If the Radial pin has the same hit as the 3/8-10 then why would anyone including a cue maker incur the added cost of the radial pin over the 3/8-10.

It is far easier to install the pins perfectly straight, and the tap cuts very smooth threads in a shaft. They are far less likely to ever strip out.
A typical tap can wander, the radial tap can't if used properly. 3/8-10 threads are best cut with a grinder, and not a tap.
 
radial pins

Mike is right..there are many choices for joint pins out there. Most all do their job well, and more designs have yet to be invented. But in making comparisons from cue to cue, I don't think it is possible to attribute differences to any single feature, such as joint pins used. You could argue that the differences between cues are the result of : different bumpers; A joints; woods; shaft diam. and taper; ferrule; and the most important..the tip. They all count towards how a cue plays, and have different levels of influence on the cue. jmo.

paul
 
pin

I like the way the radial tap cut's, very smooth and straight. I also like the alignment shoulder, I have yet to install one that was not straight(accept for the cue I dropped after installing it. OOPS) I have made 5 cues from the same piece of cocobolo 4 had 3/8 10 pins and one has the radial. Of all 5 every person I have had compare them has picked the radial, Without knowing what cue had it. Could be a fluke but to me it just feels a little more soild. However the cues were all tap'd shafts, I am curious what the outcome will be when I grind the threads (in new shafts ofcourse) so they will be a little tighter than the tap makes them.
I install whatever pin a customer wants but for the cues I make for myself I use the radial. Chris. :D
 
Chris Byrne said:
I like the way the radial tap cut's, very smooth and straight. I also like the alignment shoulder, I have yet to install one that was not straight(accept for the cue I dropped after installing it. OOPS) I have made 5 cues from the same piece of cocobolo 4 had 3/8 10 pins and one has the radial. Of all 5 every person I have had compare them has picked the radial, Without knowing what cue had it. Could be a fluke but to me it just feels a little more soild. However the cues were all tap'd shafts, I am curious what the outcome will be when I grind the threads (in new shafts ofcourse) so they will be a little tighter than the tap makes them.
I install whatever pin a customer wants but for the cues I make for myself I use the radial. Chris. :D
Chris, if you can grind radial threads, I'm all ears. :D
 
JoeyInCali said:
Chris, if you can grind radial threads, I'm all ears. :D

I can. The only problem I have is that I can't get the pitch right with a regular lathe. 8 TPI works OK though for joint protectors, since there are only a few threads on shaft caps. The tools to cut the threads were a bit spendy, since they had to be custom made.
 
Hey, has anybody here ever thought about using a Whitworth thread? The top and bottom 1/6th of the threads have a radius. That would be intersting...

Thanks,

Jon
 
BiG_JoN said:
Hey, has anybody here ever thought about using a Whitworth thread?

There is a guy here in town that has the oddest cue joint I have ever seen. The shaft and butt both have a stainless collar. Both collars have a small dot engraved in them. The butt has a male pin that looks just like a bottoming tap.
The shaft has threads like a die. You index the two dots, slide the pin into the shaft, give it about 1/3 of a clockwise turn and it is tight. Has anyone here ever seen anything like this before?

Tracy
 
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RSB-Refugee said:
There is a guy here in town that has the oddest cue joint I have ever seen. The shaft and butt both have a stainless collar. Both collars have a small dot engraved in them. The butt has a male pin that looks just like a bottoming tap.
The shaft has threads like a die. You index the two dots, slide the pin into the shaft, give it about 1/3 of a clockwise turn and it is tight. Has anyone here ever seen anything like this before?

Tracy
I think Cuetec uses a joint like that on some of their J/B's. Interesting, but i seem to remember a guy that had one like that, kept tightening it up all day...

Thanks,

Jon
 
RSB-Refugee said:
There is a guy here in town that has the oddest cue joint I have ever seen. The shaft and butt both have a stainless collar. Both collars have a small dot engraved in them. The butt has a male pin that looks just like a bottoming tap.
The shaft has threads like a die. You index the two dots, slide the pin into the shaft, give it about 1/3 of a clockwise turn and it is tight. Has anyone here ever seen anything like this before?

Tracy
Huebler made some of their break jump joints like that with the two dots but the joint was not stainless.
 
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