rail bolts for gold crown 4

D

dendweller

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
I'm looking to order new threaded rod and nuts for my rails, basically 3/8 16 at 2 3/4". The ones on the table have seen better days. Someone liked to over tighten them.

Here a couple options that get me close. What I'm wondering about is whether 50,000 tensile strength good and should I go with stainless over galvanized.

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com

I'd rather stick with the rod over getting headed bolts, seems more fool proof with regard to not over tightening through the formica top on the rail or some other disaster.

Thanks
Joe
 
dendweller said:
I'm looking to order new threaded rod and nuts for my rails, basically 3/8 16 at 2 3/4". The ones on the table have seen better days. Someone liked to over tighten them.

Here a couple options that get me close. What I'm wondering about is whether 50,000 tensile strength good and should I go with stainless over galvanized.

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com

I'd rather stick with the rod over getting headed bolts, seems more fool proof with regard to not over tightening through the formica top on the rail or some other disaster.

Thanks
Joe
Click to expand...
make sure you have these: https://www.classicbilliards.net/an...ersary-centennial/domed-washer-for-rails.html
 
thanks, those are there. The issue is that the nuts some times stick on the stud and show a bit of stripping on the nut end. When I put the rails back on I lay it on my lap and thread the other end into the floater by hand, afraid of crossing it. Figured a new set of bolts and nuts might be smart.
 
rexus31 said:
Why not convert to traditional rail bolts vs the studs/nuts?
Click to expand...
Guess it's anal but I like to thread the studs in with the rail on my lap, then put it into the bolts holes in the slate. Also like the idea that the nut will thread on once the end of the stud runs out of room. Could be over thinking it though I'd like not to strip out one of those floaters.
 
dendweller said:
Guess it's anal but I like to thread the studs in with the rail on my lap, then put it into the bolts holes in the slate. Also like the idea that the nut will thread on once the end of the stud runs out of room. Could be over thinking it though I'd like not to strip out one of those floaters.
Click to expand...
I think if you thread the stud until it stops you run the risk of damaging the top of the rail but I could be wrong.
 
rexus31 said:
I think if you thread the stud until it stops you run the risk of damaging the top of the rail but I could be wrong.
Click to expand...
Could be, I'm kind of depending on the nut and the washer to take the heat at that point.

I'm just trying to use what it was shipped with.

Are people with gold crown 4 just using bolts, like 2 1/4", 2 1/2" or something?
 
dendweller said:
Could be, I'm kind of depending on the nut and the washer to take the heat at that point.

I'm just trying to use what it was shipped with.

Are people with gold crown 4 just using bolts, like 2 1/4", 2 1/2" or something?
Click to expand...
No idea.
 
I used the factory threaded inserts when mine was assembled. I did run them through a die to "correct" some of the threads.

However, the mechanic mentioned that he usually used bolts. If you get the correct length they won't have a chance to go through the laminate top I'd imagine. And if using bolts, I'd still use the domed washers.

I do not know the length.
 
Gold_Crown_IV_1998_Page_10.jpg
 
That's some pretty low strength steel with a torque spec near the max torque spec for the rails. I'd probably go medium strength steel.
 
coolidge said:
That's some pretty low strength steel with a torque spec near the max torque spec for the rails. I'd probably go medium strength steel.
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McMaster rates them by tensile strength. I'm not sure how to relate that to the 15lb max torque on the rails. There are some stainless steel ones that are rated at 70,000 psi. Do you think that would cut it?
Thanks
 
dendweller said:
McMaster rates them by tensile strength. I'm not sure how to relate that to the 15lb max torque on the rails. There are some stainless steel ones that are rated at 70,000 psi. Do you think that would cut it?
Thanks
Click to expand...
The stainless would be fine, aprox 2x the rated torque the rails are at max. Of course on the other hand if the threaded stud is softer than the captured nut in the rail then the stud would strip first which is not a bad thing. A grade 8 stud on the other hand is so hard it would peel the threads right out of the captured nut if overtightened. But that low strength stud is right at the strip point of stripping at 15lb, I'd go with the stainless or medium strength stud and just not overtighten it.
 
coolidge said:
The stainless would be fine, aprox 2x the rated torque the rails are at max. Of course on the other hand if the threaded stud is softer than the captured nut in the rail then the stud would strip first which is not a bad thing. A grade 8 stud on the other hand is so hard it would peel the threads right out of the captured nut if overtightened. But that low strength stud is right at the strip point of stripping at 15lb, I'd go with the stainless or medium strength stud and just not overtighten it.
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I ordered 5 of the stainless, I'll try them out on the ones in the worst shape. If that goes well I get the rest.
Thanks for the input.
 
dendweller said:
I ordered 5 of the stainless, I'll try them out on the ones in the worst shape. If that goes well I get the rest.
Thanks for the input.
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If there's any resistance to screwing in the studs, buy or borrow a 3/8-16 tap to clean up the threads and get a small tube of "Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize" to apply to the studs. Due to the anti-friction properties of the product, you need to apply less torque when tightening. Most auto parts stores will sell this product or something similar, or you can buy it online.

Has other uses too:alien:

Here we see an early 19th-century depiction of a lonely scientist doing repairs on his robotic sex slave. It was during these early years that Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant 133 was invented.
41xCyLRdJ7L._SL256_.jpg


First known photo of an extraterrestrial droid sent here to mate with a young, nubile human. Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant 133 was used to ease insertion of the droid's sex organs.

61pl2xZfPdL._SL256_.jpg
 
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claymont said:
If there's any resistance to screwing in the studs, buy or borrow a 3/8-16 tap to clean up the threads and get a small tube of "Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize" to apply to the studs. Due to the anti-friction properties of the product, you need to apply less torque when tightening. Most auto parts stores will sell this product or something similar, or you can buy it online.

Has other uses too:alien:

Here we see an early 19th-century depiction of a lonely scientist doing repairs on his robotic sex slave. It was during these early years that Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant 133 was invented.
41xCyLRdJ7L._SL256_.jpg


First known photo of an extraterrestrial droid sent here to mate with a young, nubile human. Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant 133 was used to ease insertion of the droid's sex organs.

61pl2xZfPdL._SL256_.jpg
Click to expand...
Anti seize really is not a lubricant. Its just more of an anti corrosion paste for dissimilar metals. I have seen anti seize used in applications that required a lubricant for wear, it was not a pretty sight, there was a tremendous amount of wear in a very short period of time. Most fastener lubricants will have moly in them.
 
And you're bolting a wood rail to the slate, 15ft lbs max torque, grade 5 and up 3/8" by 16 x 2 1/4"-2 1/2" work great. There is no over engineering required. You have a fail safe, if you over tighten the bolts you're going to start crushing the dome lock washer, that's what that washer is.

15 foot pounds of torque people, MAX. On a GC 12ft pounds will work too, just check and adjust more often.

Ps, your threaded rod is only grade 5😉

Screenshot_20211231-175045_Google.jpg
 
dendweller said:
Guess it's anal but I like to thread the studs in with the rail on my lap, then put it into the bolts holes in the slate. Also like the idea that the nut will thread on once the end of the stud runs out of room. Could be over thinking it though I'd like not to strip out one of those floaters.
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The rod is grade 5 hardness. Look, you're talking about bolting the rails on a pool table, grade 5 Hex head bolts are great, cheap, and I like them a lot more than the threaded rod and nut, seeing how you have to try holding the nut AND washer at the sametime, while trying to thread the nut on too.

You're building out a pool table, not a rocket ship going to the moon, if that were the case I'd recommend you buy some titanium bolt!😅

Screenshot_20211231-180056_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
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