Rail Bolts

ToughBreak

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Is there a minimum number of rail bolts necessary for a correct rail installation? I heard from a sales person that three has always been the standard and all that is needed. Is more better and how many are too much? Does the number of bolts have any relevance at all?

On another subject, several people have told me that Brunswick entry level tables are imported. Does anyone know if this is true? If so, how is the quality?
ToughBreak
 
rail bolts

My new Elitte Pro 5x10 three cushion table has twelve bolts on each long rail and six on each short rail. Super solid table.
 
illusivetrout said:
My new Elitte Pro 5x10 three cushion table has twelve bolts on each long rail and six on each short rail. Super solid table.
Gabriels use 42 bolts...LOL

Glen
 
ToughBreak said:
Is there a minimum number of rail bolts necessary for a correct rail installation? I heard from a sales person that three has always been the standard and all that is needed. Is more better and how many are too much? Does the number of bolts have any relevance at all?

On another subject, several people have told me that Brunswick entry level tables are imported. Does anyone know if this is true? If so, how is the quality?
ToughBreak
The sales person is just trying to sell you on what they sell, because that's the way their tables come...LOL Yes, in most cases more rail bolts means that more of the rail is being bolted down to the slate. Better quality don't mean more rail bolts as there's a lot more that goes into "better quality" than just the rail bolts. Diamond uses 2 bolts per rail on their 7ft tables, but the rails are made out of solid oak, as opposed to a softer wood like most other rails. 3 bolts per rail on their 8fts, and 4 bolts per rail on their 9fts.

As far as Brunswick tables go, their ALL imported, and buying a Brunswick table is a matter of choice, not all Brunswick tables are built the same. Buying any pool table is more of a buyers choice, as most people that buy pool tables for their homes are not actual pool players, they'd just like to have a table at home, that's probably about 90% of the buying market anyway. If quality meant something to every buyer instead of price, there'd only be about 5 pool table manufactures on the planet that would be in business today.

Glen
 
ToughBreak said:
Is there a minimum number of rail bolts necessary for a correct rail installation? I heard from a sales person that three has always been the standard and all that is needed. Is more better and how many are too much? Does the number of bolts have any relevance at all?

On a more serious note, the weakest point on 3 bolt rails is between the pockets and the first bolt closest to the pocket. I've seen plenty of rails that were bowed up on both ends even when the rail bolts are all tightened down. So, by adding a 4th bolt, thereby spreading out the rail bolts closer to the pocket ends of the rails, you have a much better chance of bolting down the rails completely and evenly. On my King Cobra 9ft coin-op tables I built, I used 7 bolts per rail, but I used grade 7, 1/4" bolts. They're not as thick as the 3/8ths bolts more commonly used on pool tables today, but I looked at it this way. 3 bolts at 3/8ths of an inch thick equals 1 1/8th inches of holding power in three points on the rail. I used 7 bolts at a 1/4" each, that totaled 1 3/4" inches of steel in seven equal points holding the rails down. When banking balls into the rails on my tables, you could see and hear the balls bank, but you couldn't feel them bank against the rails if you placed your hand on the rail where the ball was being banked into. The Diamond tables are pretty much the same way with the solid Oak rails and 4 bolts per rail.

Glen
 
realkingcobra said:
ToughBreak said:
Is there a minimum number of rail bolts necessary for a correct rail installation? I heard from a sales person that three has always been the standard and all that is needed. Is more better and how many are too much? Does the number of bolts have any relevance at all?

On a more serious note, the weakest point on 3 bolt rails is between the pockets and the first bolt closest to the pocket. I've seen plenty of rails that were bowed up on both ends even when the rail bolts are all tightened down. So, by adding a 4th bolt, thereby spreading out the rail bolts closer to the pocket ends of the rails, you have a much better chance of bolting down the rails completely and evenly. On my King Cobra 9ft coin-op tables I built, I used 7 bolts per rail, but I used grade 7, 1/4" bolts. They're not as thick as the 3/8ths bolts more commonly used on pool tables today, but I looked at it this way. 3 bolts at 3/8ths of an inch thick equals 1 1/8th inches of holding power in three points on the rail. I used 7 bolts at a 1/4" each, that totaled 1 3/4" inches of steel in seven equal points holding the rails down. When banking balls into the rails on my tables, you could see and hear the balls bank, but you couldn't feel them bank against the rails if you placed your hand on the rail where the ball was being banked into. The Diamond tables are pretty much the same way with the solid Oak rails and 4 bolts per rail.

Glen




Three 3/8" bolts have more holding strength than seven 1/4" bolts. I'm surprised you don't know that.
 
Sounds like school all over again 8Th is better then 7th; length over girth and more is better. Next someone will want to use lag screws instead of bolts opps someone already did that.

On rail bolts dont you tighten the bolt down to 18lbs of torque in which case more bolts would be alot better then three spaced 14" apart roughly?

Jst another thought.

Craig
 
This is a picture of one of the 28 King Cobra 9ft coin-op tables I built with 42 rail bolts, 7 per rail. They mounted down from the top of the rails, through the slate into floating nut plates. Notice there is a full diamond system plus a 1/2 diamond system as well, great for banking using the diamond system.

Glen

PS. And yes, they had the same ball drop system back in 1997 that Diamond started using in October of 2000in their coin-op pool tables, of which they still use today. Diamond has refined it even more to the point of perfection, which is one of the many great things about the Diamond tables.
 

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Nice looking table. I think the diamond system would work fine take a little to get used to but well worth it.

Craig
 
Hope it isn't an issue bringing up this old thread.

Had a T-nut strip out recently on an Olhausen rail and repaired it myself. The rails play ok but don't seem as lively as they should be. Getting the humidity correct in the room seems to help a lot.

Reading here regarding the 7 bolts per rail addressed above and it is interesting to me. Has anyone here taken a table and added the additional 4 bolts per rail? I am interested to see if anyone has done so and if it was a great improvement. Would drilling the slate in that many more spots weaken it? Would it be a major pain to drill that many? Any input would be appreciated.
 
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