Rail hop

fhopper

fhopper

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My end rails cause balls to "hop" when they rebound. Where on the ball should the edge of the rail touch? Do I need to adjust the rails? My table is a Legacy with K66 rails.
 
The rail height for any pool table should be 63 1/2% of the ball diameter. for example: standard pool ball is 2 1/4" in diameter, rail height should be .635 x 2.25 or 1.43" in height.)
 
tsp&b said:
The rail height for any pool table should be 63 1/2% of the ball diameter. for example: standard pool ball is 2 1/4" in diameter, rail height should be .635 x 2.25 or 1.43" in height.)
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Interestingly though, that doesn't seem to be the case with Olhausens. I play on them every week in league and when the CB is on the rail you can definitely see more of the CB than on a GC or Diamond. This is also the case with the O's at another room in my area. Leads me to believe that whether or not it is right, this is the way they are produced at the factory.
 
fhopper said:
My end rails cause balls to "hop" when they rebound. Where on the ball should the edge of the rail touch? Do I need to adjust the rails? My table is a Legacy with K66 rails.
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This is actually common with legacy tables. The problem unlike some tables is its not a simple fix. I would start by measuring from the nose of cushion back to wood of rail, so the top of rail that has cloth on it. If it measures 2" than its not a big problem as the rules require it to be 1 7/8" - 2" so the subrail angle can be cut back about 2 degrees? which will correct the nose height and also keep you at or more 1 7/8". If it measures 1 7/8" already which is fairly common for home tables you have a bigger issue. you would have to add wood to the entire bottom of rail or cut off subrail infront of feather strip install new wood and recut subrail so things end up correctly. Or call legacy and get your money back because if you call to just correct the problem you could get one box of rails after another that has the same problem. Most legacy tables i've seen have the same problem and/or bad chinese slate.
 
DogsPlayingPool said:
Interestingly though, that doesn't seem to be the case with Olhausens. I play on them every week in league and when the CB is on the rail you can definitely see more of the CB than on a GC or Diamond. This is also the case with the O's at another room in my area. Leads me to believe that whether or not it is right, this is the way they are produced at the factory.
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That is because of the curvature on the top of brunswick rails not from the cushions and olhausens have flatter rail tops and diamond are even flatter love to play on diamonds.
 
quadrary said:
That is because of the curvature on the top of brunswick rails not from the cushions and olhausens have flatter rail tops and diamond are even flatter love to play on diamonds.
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No, maybe you misunderstand me. There is more cue ball above the cushion nose on the O's I've played on. I've not noticed a difference with Diamonds, which has the same nose height as the GC. It has nothing to do with the rails. I will be at the hall tomorrow and will measure the nose height and report back.

BTW, I like the curvature of the GC better. Much more comfortable to make an open bridge on the rail.
 
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Thank you for the replies. I guess I will shim the rail first and see what happens. My local mechanic suggested shimming with paper, but he was only making a cursory comment with out studying it much.
 
OK, I took a tape measure to the hall tonight and confirmed the nose height on the Olhausens is lower. I measured several rails on several tables and they all measured 1 3/8". I'm sure this is the case at the other room with O's by my house. I tending to believe they com from the factory that way, though I don't know this for sure. But if not it is odd that I uniformly notice this on O's at more than one place.
 
DogsPlayingPool said:
OK, I took a tape measure to the hall tonight and confirmed the nose height on the Olhausens is lower. I measured several rails on several tables and they all measured 1 3/8". I'm sure this is the case at the other room with O's by my house. I tending to believe they com from the factory that way, though I don't know this for sure. But if not it is odd that I uniformly notice this on O's at more than one place.
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O's rails are thin so the 1 3/8 will not give you any problems due to the angle of the nose being a bit flat and not downward.

OP- yes the quick and short term fix is loosening rail bolts and sliding playing cards under the rail the entire length. But not the correct longterm fix
 
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