Rails

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
Why? What does it?

You need to know that just as its importance to have the correct nose height, the body of the cushion must sit at the perfect height behind that nose height in order for the rails to play right. When the rails have thinner subrail thickness, for example 1 1/2" thick, a 1 7/16" nose height is going to be standing the cushion up higher than the backend height of the cushions which will result in the cushions then trapping the balls, making the cushions play dead. The correct cushions for sub-rails 1 1/2" thick is of the K66 design, in which the accufast cushions are, and a nose height of 1 5/16" with a cloth relief on the bottom of the rails to staple the cloth in. Without that cloth relief the nose height needs to be 1 1/4", then the thickness of the cloth will pick up the nose height a little more.
 

trentfromtoledo

8onthebreaktoledo
Silver Member
At which time? The red label rails were 23.5 degrees bevel, 1 29/64" nose height, and the Blue label are also at 1 29/64" nose height with a 24.5 degree bevel.

So, yes 24.5 degrees for blue label. Are the all sizes of blue label rails the same thickness?


TFT
 

fastone371

Certifiable
Silver Member
Your rails were already at the correct 1 11/16" but with the switch over from the Monarch K55 profile cushions that are 1 1/8" wide to the modern Superspeed K55 profile cushions that are 1 1/4" wide, the rails would have to be cut back to accommodate the wider cushions. Reason being, without correcting with width of the sub-rail the newer cushions would end up hanging over the bottom of the sub-rail, not allowing the cushions to be fully glued up, and the playing surface would be effected, making it smaller. If done correctly, the nose of the cushions to the formica finish on the top rail will measure 2" if not, it'll measure 2 1/8".

Thank you for the explanation. I learned on these forums that it was not proper to tame off my Monarchs and simply glue on K55's, as all the local people suggested because that would change the size of the playing surface. Its not the 1/4" loss of playing surface that troubled me, it was the fact that my table would no longer be twice as long as it was wide. How did you get the nose height to be correct on the Diamond Blue Label tables when changing the angle of the sub-rail angle? All things being equal changing that sub-rail angle changes the nose height, correct?? Or can you adjust the nose height a little when gluing on the cushions??
 
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realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
Thank you for the explanation. I learned on these forums that it was not proper to tame off my Monarchs and simply glue on K55's, as all the local people suggested because that would change the size of the playing surface. Its not the 1/4" loss of playing surface that troubled me, it was the fact that my table would no longer be twice as long as it was wide. How did you get the nose height to be correct on the Diamond Blue Label tables when changing the angle of the sub-rail angle? All things being equal changing that sub-rail angle changes the nose height, correct?? Or can you adjust the nose height a little when gluing on the cushions??

By reducing the thickness of the sub-rail from 1 3/4" to 1 11/16" which in turn lowered the nose height by 1/16" so by changing the bevel to 24.5 degrees it picked the nose height back up to 1 29/64"ths and placed the body of the cushions more inline behind the nose of the cushions, which in turn changed how the cushions react.
 
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